M200 axle strength??

[entropy]

I mean I'd definitely want to see this D30 with 37s - it is hard to believe something like that wouldn't break

Buddy has a JL with a locked d30 on 37s and 4.88s. he is fine so far lol.

Sponsored

 

[word302]

Buddy has a JL with a locked d30 on 37s and 4.88s. he is fine so far lol.

“So far”

 

[entropy]

“So far”

yeah lol. he will break something.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Put me in the minority group of "I like the FAD". I spent $2800 upgrading my front axle which included:

• Dana Spicer Front 4.88 Gears
• Dana Spicer Front Master Install Kit
• Motobilt Front Differential Cover
• Dana Spicer CrMo Axles
• Front Truss, C Gussets, and LCA Skids
• Gear Installation Labor
• Truss Installation Labor

I have since made other changes, but what I posted above in many ways is more heavy duty than a Dana 44 Ultimate axle which is about $5700. The UD will not have trusses and it will not work with the factory locker wiring and switches and has a different locker in it versus the Rubicon so (for me) upgrading made the most sense.

I am quite happy with the choices I made, but as always, everyone has to decide for themselves what makes sense practically and financially.

EDIT - making a clarification here. You cannot use DS CrMo front axle shafts out of the box AND retain the FAD without modifying them. No matter how the shaft is listed, BOTH of them are for FAD delete. One simply comes with the FAD block off plate and hardware and the other does not. See my Front Axle Project for more details on this.

 

[c20040215]

The JK has a much weaker axle than the JL. Our JK Sport has the D30 with a limited slip in the front and a D44 with an e-locker in the back. 5.13 gears. 37x12.5 tires. If you are going to upgrade your axles I would suggest not investing any more money in existing or new Mopar axles. Aftermarket cost more but it would be better to put your money towards aftermarket heavy duty axles. That way you can get rid of the FAD (weakest point of the front axle), get them with thicker walls, better brackets, better ground clearance, better pinion angles (a big deal with a lifted Jeep), they will come with lockers and better gear ratios already in them, and depending on which ones you get, you can probably run 40" tires on them in the future.

Put me in the minority group of "I like the FAD". I spent $2800 upgrading my front axle which included:

• Dana Spicer Front 4.88 Gears
• Dana Spicer Front Master Install Kit
• Motobilt Front Differential Cover
• Dana Spicer CrMo Axles
• Front Truss, C Gussets, and LCA Skids
• Gear Installation Labor
• Truss Installation Labor

I have since made other changes, but what I posted above in many ways is more heavy duty than a Dana 44 Ultimate axle which is about $5700. The UD will not have trusses and it will not work with the factory locker wiring and switches and has a different locker in it versus the Rubicon so (for me) upgrading made the most sense.

I am quite happy with the choices I made, but as always, everyone has to decide for themselves what makes sense practically and financially.

Thats basically what I have minus the diff cover and chromoly shaft.
Do you have the link to front axle shafts? Thank you.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Do you have the link to front axle shafts? Thank you.

Breaking the FAD is typically caused by ramming into something or being in a wreck versus low speed rock crawling. While it is the weak spot in the axle housing it is not as weak as some would like to trumpet that it is.

EDIT - making a clarification here. You cannot use DS CrMo front axle shafts out of the box AND retain the FAD without modifying them. No matter how the shaft is listed, BOTH of them are for FAD delete. One simply comes with the FAD block off plate and hardware and the other does not. See my Front Axle Project for more details on this.

Here is a link to the Dana spec sheet and the Dana part number of 10044459 for the Rubicon FAD version:

https://www.danaaftermarket.com/spi...locker/10044459?catalog=PIMS_NA&partType=PART

I would reach out to Will at East Coast Gear Supply (Will @ eastcoastgearsupply.com) he will treat you right on price and service.

 

[c20040215]

Breaking the FAD is typically caused by ramming into something or being in a wreck versus low speed rock crawling. While it is the weak spot in the axle housing it is not as weak as some would like to trumpet that it is.

Here is a link to the Dana spec sheet and the Dana part number of 10044459 for the Rubicon FAD version:

https://www.danaaftermarket.com/spi...locker/10044459?catalog=PIMS_NA&partType=PART

I would reach out to Will at East Coast Gear Supply (Will @ eastcoastgearsupply.com) he will treat you right on price and service.

I agree with you. The cast iron is definitely a weak spot and we have all seen those pictures of FAD breaks in pieces. But as far as I know, those are either from collisions or bombing through desert in high speed (which you are likely going to bent the axle tube anyways). I personally have not experienced, seen, heard, or read anything about FAD failing during typical wheeling or rock crawling situations, maybe time will tell.

I trussed it while doing gear work just to have a peace of mind.

 

[CarbonSteel]

I agree with you. The cast iron is definitely a weak spot and we have all seen those pictures of FAD breaks in pieces. But as far as I know, those are either from collisions or bombing through desert in high speed (which you are likely going to bent the axle tube anyways). I personally have not experienced, seen, heard, or read anything about FAD failing during typical wheeling or rock crawling situations, maybe time will tell.

I trussed it while doing gear work just to have a peace of mind.

I did the same. For what I am doing with mine (short of driving off the side of a mountain which will break more than a FAD), I am good with the steps that I have taken to strengthen the axle to the extent possible/practical.

At some point you have to look at a holistic picture:

1. What you are doing/going to be doing with the Jeep
2. How likely it is that you will break something
3. What will it cost to fix if it breaks
4. What will it cost to prevent it from breaking
5. Can I REALISTICALLY justify the delta between #3 and #4
6. What it will mean if I don't decide to pay to prevent breaking. e.g. can I deal with the potential downtime

 

[kah.mun.rah]

There are many people talking about the cast iron FAD is the weak point of the entire axle, which I dont disagree, but I genuinely want to know if it is indeed a common failure when offroading.
We have all seen it, there are pictures of axle snap at the cast iron part everywhere on internet. How many of them happened when rock crawling or slow speed trail driving which most

The ones I have seen that fail at the FAD is when they were doing something borderline reckless on the trail or involved in an accident on the street...which is pretty much the story with most breaks/failures on other parts as well. Jeeps aren't indestructible and "if you play you pay" certainly applies.

 

[J0E]

I say youre fine. I have a locked d30 for the past year and wheel it hard. Heavy 33 M/Ts at 62lbs each tire.

OP has 35's

 

[J0E]

The ones I have seen that fail at the FAD is when they were doing something borderline reckless on the trail or involved in an accident on the street...

Agreed. Even though the FAD on D44's is prone to fail going fast, a used set of D44's are cheaper than better axles.

 

[entropy]

OP has 35's

Yeah. And I say he is fine.

 

[entropy]

Agreed. Even though the FAD on D44's is prone to fail going fast, a used set of D44's are cheaper than better axles.

Used d44s are difficult to come by and sell for the same or almost the same as new axles. I dont know why.

 

[word302]

Used d44s are difficult to come by and sell for the same or almost the same as new axles. I dont know why.

Because that’s the price the market bears.

 

[entropy]

Because that’s the price the market bears.

Yeah I guess I dont understand why people pay for used when they can buy new. i guess they dont know that?.

There seems to be a misconception that switching to rubi axles is really cheap compared to locking the sport axles. When you run the numbers it isnt black and white unless you find a good deal on used rubi axles.

The value for your money you get out of the rubi axles, even new, is better than running the stock sport axles. But running stock axles can save you some $$$.

The decision is even trickier than when you have a d44 on the rear and a d30 up front lol. Thats my case. If anything fails on my front axle Id just replace for a short d44.

If I was on OPs shoes tho, I would go with new axles. It isnt an easy choice tho I get it.

Sponsored