Locker Position Sensor Potting - DANA 44

[Astro Jeep]

Do you still have the frayed Z-locker harness? I'm interested in dissecting it.

I do not. I have a second used harness (long story, but I had two because I am forgetful sometimes). Once I get all my issues resolved, if you want it, we can work something out. Maybe half a tank of diesel, an In-N-Out Double Double, no fries, and a large unsweetened iced tea, along with shipping!

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[Astro Jeep]

@Terrymo, I am not sure if I told you, but I thought that my lockers were working despite my lights telling me otherwise. I took your suggestion and put my phone under there on a miniature tripod and videoed each sensor going through its paces. Nope, nadda, nothing. I started a new thread hoping to get some new eyes on this.

 

[Terrymo]

@Terrymo, I am not sure if I told you, but I thought that my lockers were working despite my lights telling me otherwise. I took your suggestion and put my phone under there on a miniature tripod and videoed each sensor going through its paces. Nope, nadda, nothing. I started a new thread hoping to get some new eyes on this.

I’m guessing (a wild ass guess with no knowledge) in your case, since your lockers aren’t engaging, the locker position sensor may not be the issue since, if I understand correctly, it only “reports“ information. Also if I am understanding correctly, the z locker masks the problem but does not engage or disengage the locker. Sorry this is very frustrating. Hopefully @chevymitchell @roaniecowpony etc will be able to help.

 

[roaniecowpony]

@Terrymo, I am not sure if I told you, but I thought that my lockers were working despite my lights telling me otherwise. I took your suggestion and put my phone under there on a miniature tripod and videoed each sensor going through its paces. Nope, nadda, nothing. I started a new thread hoping to get some new eyes on this.

So, when this started with my front locker a couple years ago, I tested the actuator coil directly with 12vdc at the actuator connector. If you unplug the actuator coil from the sensor, you will see that it has only two wires going into the connector. You will want to put 12v to the red wire and ground the black wire. If the steel actuator plate moves, you are likely not dealing with an actuator coil problem. Mine was failing and it was intermittent, not working most of the time with some sporatic function. It had an internal short.

If it's the actuator coil that failed, getting a replacement part is the issue. You can buy used parts sometimes, but Jeep doesn't sell them new. You can buy ARB or Eaton lockers, but you'll need to replace the axles with 35 spline aftermarket axles. Total cost around $3k. That's why I installed a Bronco actuator coil in mine.

 

[damageinc321]

Good evening everyone.

I took the time today to run through the potting of my locker sensors. This seems to be a very frustrating point of failure for all of us. I have experienced it myself.

Here are the DIY steps you can follow to properly pot the sensors.

**Keep in mind the amount of time required for the potting material to cure. Tacky at 3-5 hours. 24 hour full cure. Best to do both sensors at the same time when you can wait, at least, overnight.

Also, please understand that this is a temporary fix to an issue we all hope FCA is going to remedy. Hopefully there is, at a minimum, a part number for this sensor we can order through Dealers and Distributors**

Jeep JL TQ Specs: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/complete-torque-values-for-jeep-jl-wrangler/

Tools Required:

• 1/4" Ratchet
• 1/4" Drive T20 Bit
• 3/8" Drive Ratchet
• 3/8" Drive 10mm
• 1/2" Drive Ratchet
• 1/2" Drive 15mm
• Drill
• 3/32" Drill Bit
• Flathead Screwdriver
• Drain Pan

Parts Required:

• Teflon Tape
• Electrical Tape
• Sharpe/Marker
• Acetone (Optional)
• Red Loctite
• Dielectric Grease
• Shop towels or Microfiber Cloth
• 832HD Potting Compound (25mL)
  • https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals...locphy=9009606&hvtargid=pla-376934479130&th=1

These steps are the same for the Front and Rear Axles.

• Using a 3/8" Drive ratchet, drain the diff fluid into your drain pan. Wait for the diff to finish draining. Clean the drain plug and apply teflon tape to the threads. Reinstall at this time.

• Using a 10mm socket, remove the diff cover bolts.

• Using a flathead (or finger tips), remove diff cover.
• Remove the reusable diff gasket.
• Using a 15mm socket, remove the R/H side Cap Bolts.
• Remove Cap Bolts with alignment plate. Keep the bolts with the plate so they go back in the same spots they came out of.

• Using a T20 bit, remove the screw holding the Locker Sensor in place.

• Using a flathead (or fingers), disengage connector safety clip.
• Remove Connector and Sensor.

• Wipe sensor off using a shop towel or microfiber cloth.
• Mark sensor as shown in the picture with a sharpe.

• Using a 3/32" drill bit, drill 3 holes as shown in the pictures. Be VERY careful with this step as the PCB (Circuit Board) is located very close to the clear cap on the sensor. Drill at a very low speed, with light pressure. We need 3 holes for this work properly. One is used to inject potting compound into the top side of the PCB, one for the bottom side of the PCB, and one to let air escape as we are injecting potting compound. Without an air escape, there will be air pockets and this whole thing will be for nothing.
• At this point, if your sensor has oil in it, would be a good time to clean it out. Spray some connector/electronics cleaner through each hole to rinse the sensor out. Be sure to let it dry completely before continuing to the next step. You don't want to dilute the potting compound too much. A little bit is ok.

• Inject potting compound as shown in the video. Once you inject the compound in the bottom hole, you will notice the air being pushed out first and then a rush of compound will come out when it's full.

• Once the sensor is full, wipe the top side off with a shop towel.
• Apply electrical tape over the two holes and set the sensor down on its top.

• Wipe off any excess potting compound and fill the void in the back of the sensor with more compound. Let sit for 3-5 hours. Once tacky, clean the sensor using Acetone so there isn't any left over potting material on the outside of the sensor once fully cured.

• Once cleaned, let sit for 24 hours. (At least 12 hours before reinstallation.)

• Once cured, install sensor in reverse order. (Use Dielectric Grease on the connector and Loctite on the T20 screw.)
• Install alignment plate and R/H side Cap Bolts. Be sure to TQ to spec. The TQ specs are different front to rear.
• Install Diff Cover.
• Service Diff.
• Test Locker System.

I have a question for you, I had 5.13s installed a few years ago and twice now my pinion bearing has gone bad, this time when I brought it in to the place who did my gears said the elocker is bad and I need new gears. I think based on your pics the locker wasn't installed right.

 

[Terrymo]

@damageinc321
I don’t have the answer that @chevymitchell will have but here’s a pic of mine

 

[grandsrus]

I have a question for you, I had 5.13s installed a few years ago and twice now my pinion bearing has gone bad, this time when I brought it in to the place who did my gears said the elocker is bad and I need new gears. I think based on your pics the locker wasn't installed right.

That 4WD shop doesnt know what they are doing!!!

 

[Terrymo]

That 4WD shop doesnt know what they are doing!!!

I believe you but please elaborate so I can learn something.

 

[chevymitchell]

I have a question for you, I had 5.13s installed a few years ago and twice now my pinion bearing has gone bad, this time when I brought it in to the place who did my gears said the elocker is bad and I need new gears. I think based on your pics the locker wasn't installed right.

There is something very wrong with your coil pin and retention plate. Take the right side cap off and send a picture of the pin and plate, please.

 

[DavidArmen]

There is something very wrong with your solenoid pin and retention plate. Take the right side cap off and send a picture of the pin and plate, please.

Looks like the pin ate into the plate???

 

[BRuby]

I have a question for you, I had 5.13s installed a few years ago and twice now my pinion bearing has gone bad, this time when I brought it in to the place who did my gears said the elocker is bad and I need new gears. I think based on your pics the locker wasn't installed right.

Here is a photo of mine as well to compare. Looks like you have a ton of metal shavings stuck to the base magnet and sensor magnet. As well the orange rust color is very weird. Plus the pin actually does look like it did eat and is stuck into the side plate. Also what about potting - did you do it or did they do it or was it never done? Mine is a 2018 - so about as old as you can get and looks pristine inside. Lockers properly potted so the instant you toggle the lever up or down - lockers engage or disengage. Immediately zero delay. Instantaneous.

 

[damageinc321]

What is potting? I'm going to a different 4x4 shop to have them looked at after the holidays. I no longer trust the shop that installed them originally.

 

[phageghost]

What is potting?

See the OG OP:
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...ion-sensor-potting-dana-44.59581/post-1279117

 

[BRuby]

What is potting? I'm going to a different 4x4 shop to have them looked at after the holidays. I no longer trust the shop that installed them originally.

Yeah the locker sensor fills with oil - then apparently shorts once metal particles get in. Oil eventually seeps in over time. Each of my front and rear sensors were filled with oil - then drilled to drain. Spray flushed dried cleaned potted then re-installed. FCA sells sets of new replacement sensors - but they still need to get potted. Read all about in this thread.

Makes sense to go to a different 4x4 shop and ask for a refund for any work improperly done. As you can see from the photos - yours looks very off.

The red circle is the locker sensor that gets removed and potted. It is held in place with a Phillips head screw and a surprising amount of magnetic force. The metal particles and shavings are strongly attracted to the magnet and seem to decrease the sensitivity.

 

[nU7OuxIx]

Does anybody know if the 2025 Rubicon's come with the sensor already potted? I thought I read somewhere that they did. But then a post in this thread made it sound like they didn't.

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