Locker Position Sensor Potting - DANA 44

[Astro Jeep]

@Astro Jeep - I used a rivet as a depth stop while drilling. Post #156 in this thread.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...ion-sensor-potting-dana-44.59581/post-1406002

Thank you. Those pictures helped a lot.

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[John VonJeep]

I agree, and I almost went that route. It is a rabbit hole because the Rubicon splines are 32, and the ARB for Rubicon requires a 35 spline, so you need new shafts. If you need new ones, you might as well go with Chromoly. I have the ARB air compressor, but I would need a manifold and a tank if I went with the air locker. If you are going to pull all that, you might as well get everything else new since there is 100k on the Jeep. Pretty soon, you realize those D60s you want to buy in two years won't happen if you pour all this money into the D44. Hence fixing what I have.

 

[swampflyer]

I agree, and I almost went that route. It is a rabbit hole because the Rubicon splines are 32, and the ARB for Rubicon requires a 35 spline, so you need new shafts. If you need new ones, you might as well go with Chromoly. I have the ARB air compressor, but I would need a manifold and a tank if I went with the air locker. If you are going to pull all that, you might as well get everything else new since there is 100k on the Jeep. Pretty soon, you realize those D60s you want to buy in two years won't happen if you pour all this money into the D44. Hence fixing what I have.

I understand your situation my rear locker sensor was replaced under warranty once. If I had the extra cash I would just put in the Fusion semi float axle with eaton elec locker and ditch the factory crap. I would probable go with the Fusion elite 44 for the front. oh, if we could only win the lottery. lol. heck then ditch the elec steering and go back to hydraulic. Oh well.

 

[Astro Jeep]

I understand your situation my rear locker sensor was replaced under warranty once. If I had the extra cash I would just put in the Fusion semi float axle with eaton elec locker and ditch the factory crap. I would probable go with the Fusion elite 44 for the front. oh, if we could only win the lottery. lol. heck then ditch the elec steering and go back to hydraulic. Oh well.

Someday! Someday!

 

[Astro Jeep]

This post is long, but I need help from the knowledgeable, and I'm at a standstill on this locker repair.

First, here is some background information that may invalidate a few previous posts. Once I figure this out, I will place disclaimers on them.

I originally ordered the AXLE SENSOR KIT—MOPAR (68544629AA) along with the recommended potting epoxy. Once they arrived, I potted them according to @chevymitchell's instructions before installing them on my e-locker. During potting, I thought my drill bit ruined two sensor internal circuit boards when it plunged through too fast. This original misconception was "validated" when I tried all five sensors and two of the sensors caused panel light sequences that did not act like the others.

I bought a second set of sensors because I thought I had ruined the first one I needed, but this time, I decided to install them first before potting. To my amazement, two unpotted sensors had the same panel light sequence as the two potted sensors I thought I had ruined. They are obviously good, or so I thought.

It is important to note that as the day wore on, the light sequence exhibited by the sensors that I thought were good disappeared. Now, there is only one set of light sequences. No matter what I tried, I could not get a different sequence to occur. All I remember from before was that on three of the sensors, there were no locker lights on ignition. Two sensors exhibited locker lights on ignition.

Today, the following sequence of events occurred for all five sensors (Ten sensors because I tried both sets I bought.)
1) Close the driver's door.
2)Start the Jeep in 2H. Immediately, the upper left locker light comes on and blinks, along with the light on the rear locker switch. (Earlier today, on the sensors I thought were good, this light did not come on during ignition in 2H)
3) Hit the locker off button; the upper left light disappeared.
4) I put the Jeep in L4 and D (I am not on jack stands; I only have my foot on the brake). I then engage the rear locker switch. The service locker message and upper right locker warning light with an exclamation point appear. All locker lights are now steady on, including the light on the rear locker switch.
5) I hit the locker off button, and all lights remain on, but the upper right locker light blinks again.

I am wondering if I have a faulty external wiring harness. I did replace the pass-through axle locker sensor connector 68400411AA, though. A pigtail harness connects the locker sensor to the pass-through connector, which could also be faulty, but I don't have a part number for it.

I still have my Z automotive harness, but it stopped working at some point before this attempt to fix my sensors. I might try reattaching it and go through each sensor again to see if I get a response.

Anywho, if you know of a solution, I am all ears.

 

[Terrymo]

This post is long, but I need help from the knowledgeable, and I'm at a standstill on this locker repair.

First, here is some background information that may invalidate a few previous posts. Once I figure this out, I will place disclaimers on them.

I originally ordered the AXLE SENSOR KIT—MOPAR (68544629AA) along with the recommended potting epoxy. Once they arrived, I potted them according to @chevymitchell's instructions before installing them on my e-locker. During potting, I thought my drill bit ruined two sensor internal circuit boards when it plunged through too fast. This original misconception was "validated" when I tried all five sensors and two of the sensors caused panel light sequences that did not act like the others.

I bought a second set of sensors because I thought I had ruined the first one I needed, but this time, I decided to install them first before potting. To my amazement, two unpotted sensors had the same panel light sequence as the two potted sensors I thought I had ruined. They are obviously good, or so I thought.

It is important to note that as the day wore on, the light sequence exhibited by the sensors that I thought were good disappeared. Now, there is only one set of light sequences. No matter what I tried, I could not get a different sequence to occur. All I remember from before was that on three of the sensors, there were no locker lights on ignition. Two sensors exhibited locker lights on ignition.

Today, the following sequence of events occurred for all five sensors (Ten sensors because I tried both sets I bought.)
1) Close the driver's door.
2)Start the Jeep in 2H. Immediately, the upper left locker light comes on and blinks, along with the light on the rear locker switch. (Earlier today, on the sensors I thought were good, this light did not come on during ignition in 2H)
3) Hit the locker off button; the upper left light disappeared.
4) I put the Jeep in L4 and Drive (I am not on jack stands; I only have my foot on the brake). I then engage the rear locker switch. The service locker message and upper right locker warning light with an exclamation point appear. All locker lights are now steady on, including the light on the rear locker switch.
5) I hit the locker off button, and all lights remain on, but the upper right locker light blinks again.

I am wondering if I have a faulty external wiring harness. I did replace the pass-through axle locker sensor connector 68400411AA, though. A pigtail harness connects the locker sensor to the pass-through connector, which could also be faulty, but I don't have a part number for it.

I still have my Z automotive harness, but it stopped working at some point before this attempt to fix my sensors. I might try reattaching it and go through each sensor again to see if I get a response.

Anywho, if you know of a solution, I am all ears.

Hopefully @chevymitchell @roaniecowpony etc will have an answer. I copied this from the TSB. I don’t know if it’s relevant but I’m wondering if a code needs to be cleared

“Customers may experience a Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) illumination. Upon further investigation the technician may find that the following Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) has been set:
● C1451-11 - Service Axle Locker System**
Customers may also comment on a Service Axle Locker message displayed in the Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC) for this condition.”

 

[Astro Jeep]

Hopefully @chevymitchell @roaniecowpony etc will have an answer. I copied this from the TSB. I don’t know if it’s relevant but I’m wondering if a code needs to be cleared

“Customers may experience a Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) illumination. Upon further investigation the technician may find that the following Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) has been set:
● C1451-11 - Service Axle Locker System**
Customers may also comment on a Service Axle Locker message displayed in the Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC) for this condition.”

Possible. I might put it on four jack stands tomorrow and see if the wheels lock and unlock. I am not sure if my Tazer can clear codes, but I will check that, too.

 

[Terrymo]

Possible... I might put it on four jack stands tomorrow, and see if the wheels are locking and unlocking as well. I am not sure if my Tazer can clear codes, but I will check that too.

Not a Tazer owner but I’m pretty sure it can clear codes. Following your progress closely since this is next on my to do list.

 

[Terrymo]

I have a 23 JLU Rubicon that has the original style locker position sensor. I had lights flashing for the rear diff at the switch and on the dash, as well as an intermittent Service Axle Locker message. I bought the kit with 5 sensors and potted them last week. It was a Macguyver day rather than a Murphy’s Law day since the first locker position sensor I swapped in out of the kit of 5 sensors worked correctly. Test drove in a dirt field locking and unlocking the rear diff with no flashing lights or warning messages. I also replaced the pass through bulkhead connector since I had diff oil in the external connector. So far so good. Thanks to @chevymitchell for starting this thread with great instructions (and videos for those who struggle with reading) as well as many others who contributed to the thread.

 

[roaniecowpony]

I understand all this and would-say just get a arb or eaten and screw it. This has got to be the biggest jug fuck I’ve ever seen. lol

So, an ARB or Eaton locker is ~$1300-1500, then you need to put 35 spline axles in it. Add another $1500. Fugettabatit. Put a Bronco Dana 44 locker in it. ~$500 with all the parts, with the Z-Automotive sensor bypass.

 

[Astro Jeep]

I finally got my rear lockers to work, kinda, and I need help, please.
Over the last 10 days or so, I have done so many different things with every component that I can reach to get one of these sensors to respond that I cannot remember everything I have done.

Today, I got sensor #3 to respond. However, the lights are still on as if there are issues, but I can confirm in 4L that my rear wheels lock when the lockers are engaged and spin separately from each other when disengaged.

Sensor #3
Clear all DCMs using Tazer
Turn on Jeep
The upper left locker light blinks in 2H along with locker switch light.
Hit Off Locker. Locker Disengaging Splash Screen. Upper left locker light still blinks along with the locker switch light.
Drive out of the driveway in 2H. No lockers are engaged. The upper left locker light and locker switch light are still blinking.
Stop, put in N, and Shift into 4L.
Hit the rear locker switch. The upper left locker light stops blinking and is now on steady. The upper right service locker light comes on and stays steady.
Put in D
Drive and turn, and lockers work.
Upper left locker light remains on steady. The upper right service locker light remains on and stays steady.
Put in N
Hit the locker off button
The upper left locker begins blinking again. The upper right service locker light remains steady.
Put in 2H
The upper left locker remains blinking. The upper right service locker light remains steady.
Put in D and turn. Lockers are disengaged.
The upper left locker remains blinking. The upper right service locker light remains steady.

The above is not repeatable. When testing, I have my differential cover off to swap out sensors. The upper 15mm cap bolt is out so that I can get to the T20 screw when needed. The bottom 15mm cap bolt is torqued to spec, but even so, there may be some play going on. I may button the whole thing back up minus the fluid and test it again.

If you are wondering, I am not even driving more than 40 feet, so the lack of fluid is not an issue.

@Terrymo
@chevymitchell
@roaniecowpony
@John VonJeep

 

[Astro Jeep]

I buttoned everything up and could repeat the above post, except when I am in 2H, no lights are lit on the dash now. I think that since I have not replaced my front locker sensor yet, the dash lights are a response to it still being bad. I am going to put some Loctite on the T20 screw and throw some dielectric grease on the connectors. Torque all the bolts back down, throw in some 75W-140, and hopefully, all the dash lights will no longer come on once I finish the front lockers tomorrow.

 

[Terrymo]

I finally got my rear lockers to work, kinda, and I need help, please.
Over the last 10 days or so, I have done so many different things with every component that I can reach to get one of these sensors to respond that I cannot remember everything I have done.

Today, I got sensor #3 to respond. However, the lights are still on as if there are issues, but I can confirm in 4L that my rear wheels lock when the lockers are engaged and spin separately from each other when disengaged.

Sensor #3
Clear all DCMs using Tazer
Turn on Jeep
The upper left locker light blinks in 2H along with locker switch light.
Hit Off Locker. Locker Disengaging Splash Screen. Upper left locker light still blinks along with the locker switch light.
Drive out of the driveway in 2H. No lockers are engaged. The upper left locker light and locker switch light are still blinking.
Stop, put in N, and Shift into 4L.
Hit the rear locker switch. The upper left locker light stops blinking and is now on steady. The upper right service locker light comes on and stays steady.
Put in D
Drive and turn, and lockers work.
Upper left locker light remains on steady. The upper right service locker light remains on and stays steady.
Put in N
Hit the locker off button
The upper left locker begins blinking again. The upper right service locker light remains steady.
Put in 2H
The upper left locker remains blinking. The upper right service locker light remains steady.
Put in D and turn. Lockers are disengaged.
The upper left locker remains blinking. The upper right service locker light remains steady.

The above is not repeatable. When testing, I have my differential cover off to swap out sensors. The upper 15mm cap bolt is out so that I can get to the T20 screw when needed. The bottom 15mm cap bolt is torqued to spec, but even so, there may be some play going on. I may button the whole thing back up minus the fluid and test it again.

If you are wondering, I am not even driving more than 40 feet, so the lack of fluid is not an issue.

@Terrymo
@chevymitchell
@roaniecowpony
@John VonJeep

I will leave it to others with expertise to answer. Do you know if your lockers were engaging and disengaging prior to making any change? My rear locker worked fine but since the locker position sensor was failing I got warning lights and messages for the rear locker. My understanding is the locker position sensor you are replacing is only reporting information not activating or deactivating the locker. The only other thing I did was replace the pass through bulkhead fitting and cleaned the connections inside and outside the diff with CRC “lectra clean” electric parts degreaser since my connections had lots of diff oil on them. When I had the diff cover off I propped my phone up and took videos to confirm the locker was engaging and disengaging. You will see this plate move slightly left and right as you engage and disengage. Then again, my assumptions could be wrong

 

[Astro Jeep]

I will leave it to others with expertise to answer. Do you know if your lockers were engaging and disengaging prior to making any change? My rear locker worked fine but since the locker position sensor was failing I got warning lights and messages for the rear locker. My understanding is the locker position sensor you are replacing is only reporting information not activating or deactivating the locker. The only other thing I did was replace the pass through bulkhead fitting and cleaned the connections inside and outside the diff with CRC “lectra clean” electric parts degreaser since my connections had lots of diff oil on them. When I had the diff cover off I propped my phone up and took videos to confirm the locker was engaging and disengaging. You will see this plate move slightly left and right as you engage and disengage. Then again, my assumptions could be wrong

Before I bought and potted the new sensors, my lockers were working with the Z-locker harness, but the harness became frayed and stopped working. I decided to fix the root issue rather than continue to use the band-aid. My original sensors were filled with oil, however.

I am glad you posted before I buttoned everything up. I am going to get some of that CRC “lectra clean” and use it. Since it is getting late, I will wait until after I do the front lockers tomorrow before I button everything up.

 

[roaniecowpony]

Before I bought and potted the new sensors, my lockers were working with the Z-locker harness, but the harness became frayed and stopped working. I decided to fix the root issue rather than continue to use the band-aid. My original sensors were filled with oil, however.

I am glad you posted before I buttoned everything up. I am going to get some of that CRC “lectra clean” and use it. Since it is getting late, I will wait until after I do the front lockers tomorrow before I button everything up.

Do you still have the frayed Z-locker harness? I'm interested in dissecting it.

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