Possibly? I only have the 7 inch screen and it looks like the parasitic draw issues were with the 8.4 screen. Not sure which other ones could affect it, or which ones you’re referring to, but should mostly be up to date.
Is this simpler way just for 3.6L or does the fuse pull and battery disconnect work the same on the 2.0T?I just found the simpler way of doing it a couple weeks ago.
I have a 2022 JL 2.0t and I just had to do this today as a result of dead batteries when I tried to go to work. I drove back and forth to the dealer after making the change (10 miles round trip) and everything behaved as expected - no EVIC errrors. The ESS still functioned off the main battery, but after it reminded me that it was on, I shut it off.
Yes it is the smaller ground that is in the post.
Thank you for this update on the AUX / JUMPER / PCR.While working on another project, I was looking at the fuse descriptions on the underside of the PDC cover and saw this - F42 PCR CTRL FEED (ESS)*. Could it really be this easy? Yes it is. I pulled the fuse, disconnected the aux negative cable from the main battery negative post and it started right up without any errors.
Unplugging the PCR has always been an alternative to using an N1 N2 fused jumper, both methods defeat the aux battery pass/fail test that occurs prior to a cold start. Unlike using a jumper, unplugging the PCR doesn't require any additional parts, it's just not easy to get to the PCR plug. Removing the F42 fuse accomplishes the same thing as unplugging the PCR and the fuse is easy to get to.
Other than a couple starts, I haven't had the chance for real world testing, but I did look at the schematic and verified that pulling the fuse accomplishes the same thing as unplugging the PCR, both prevent the relay from activating.
Here's the underside of the PDC cover showing the description and location of the fuse.
Here's the fuse location with the fuse removed.
Here's the schematic showing the fuse in the circuit.
I assume whoever put the winch in might have done the battery delete as well. Thanks for the thread anyway. It must have come in handy for the people who owned this thing before me. 
Is your's an eTorque engine instead of an ESS engine?Funny little story... I picked up a 2019 JLUR a couple of months back with only 8k miles on it. Spotless. Even had the bonus of a WARN winch already installed. This is my first Jeep and as I got to reading about it I found out about the dual batteries and that the smaller one seems to only be good for 2 or 3 years. It seemed to me that would not be a great situation for the main battery if they were in parallel. I also had visions of this thing going bad during our 3 week trip out West coming up soon. So the more I researched about removing that smaller battery I came to this thread last night and thought, "genius. I can easily delete this battery".
I figured I would get my meter out and check the condition of each battery individually just for kicks but still planned on just deleting the smaller battery. I opened the hood and checked the fuses and noticed F42 was already removed. Then I noticed the negative cable from the winch was connected to the main battery where the ESS battery would normally connect. Then I noticed N3 had no cable connected to it. Voila! Battery delete was already done!
EDIT: I just noticed this thread was started after I bought my Jeep so someone else must have figured out the same thing. I can't find any similar battery delete threads mentioning the fuse so thanks anyway for this thread. It seems like the best way to do the ESS battery delete.
Ahhh, maybe that's it. The Mopar site shows this for my VIN: 2.0L I4 DOHC DI Turbo eTorque Engine
I can't believe this didn't cross my radar. I thought there was only a 2.0, a 4xE, a 6 cylinder, a diesel, and a V8. Didn't realize there were multiple versions of a couple of them.
My 2029 JT was even different from both. For all just find the smaller cable we're ever it is and leave the larger. Thanks OP!Thanks for pushing though on this. Oddly, my aux negative disconnect and main battery ground seem to be the opposite of what's shown in the videos in the other ESS disable post. Thinking I might have missed a twist in the pairing without pulling everything out, I followed the instructions anyway for pulling that lead off after pulling the fuse and had no power to the Jeep. Do the techs actually have to clamp the terminal connectors on and did so in reverse or did they just attach them incorrectly? It just seems odd that the larger anchor blade terminal is attached to the smaller wire for the aux negative lead.
Edit: Pulled both leads off and reconnected the larger ground wire back. Works as described above. Pics added for reference.
