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3.6L ESS Aux Battery Bypass

Rhinebeck01

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Ok
But why was it reading 14+ volts after start with the old battery?
I am still trying to wrap my head around that.
It doesn't make sense to me.

Thanks for responding.
When battery voltage is down, smart alternator goes to work at it's job of charging..... so you see smart alternator output of 14, 14.1, 14.5, etc.. Once battery voltage is up, smart alternator can take a break so to speak and you see smart alternator output of 13.2. 13.5, etc..
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Wrangler man

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I have a 2019 Rubicon Unlimited with 30,000 miles.
A couple months ago I started getting a "AUX switches not available. Battery charging" message.
I read through the various battery threads on here and Youtube and decided that the AUX battery was probably on it's way out.
I did the pull fuse 42 and remove the negative cable to the aux battery, fired it up and all was good. When I looked at the battery voltage gauge before start it read 12.1 and after start weht up to 14.4. I think that means that the alternator is charging.
Anyway... after another month goes by, I started getting the
"AUX switches not available. Battery charging" message again.
I replaced the main battery with Die Hard Platinum H7.
The message went away. The voltage reads 13.1 before I start it and still reads 13.1 after start. It used to jump up to 14.4 or so.
The voltage will slowly creep up while I drive the 25 miles to work,
The Voltage will rise up past 14 volts as I am braking to a stop.
When I am stopped it goes back down to 13.2 or so.

Does this mean that the alternator is not charging ?

I have read through this thread and saw at least one person has had this issue, but no real cause for the issue was found.
There has got to be something I may have done wrong.

I am sorry for the long post
Many like to take the short way out by pulling fuses and negative cables. Aux battery is the corporate. Too too many codes and battery problems. Yet so many never remove it. Completely eliminate it. It was a horrible engineering design that flopped. Nevertheless FCA never recalled the problem that almost all eventually face.
I stuck with the original H7 battery no issues. Completely eliminated the Aux, works fine (over 10k to date.) But had countless others before. left me stranded, flat bedding to the dealership. No More.
Good luck 👍
 

toyotafreak65

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When battery voltage is down, smart alternator goes to work at it's job of charging..... so you see smart alternator output of 14, 14.1, 14.5, etc.. Once battery voltage is up, smart alternator can take a break so to speak and you see smart alternator output of 13.2. 13.5, etc..
I continued to dig on this issue and stubbled across this thread"
Understanding the Dash voltage display for ESS, battery health"
This explains it all. Mine is all good.
 

GeeFours

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Many like to take the short way out by pulling fuses and negative cables. Aux battery is the corporate. Too too many codes and battery problems. Yet so many never remove it. Completely eliminate it. It was a horrible engineering design that flopped. Nevertheless FCA never recalled the problem that almost all eventually face.
I stuck with the original H7 battery no issues. Completely eliminated the Aux, works fine (over 10k to date.) But had countless others before. left me stranded, flat bedding to the dealership. No More.
Good luck 👍
Ah ok, I removed the negative and fuse but I'm still getting the exact same dash errors - aux switches and ESS not available. Does it require pulling the battery entirely to rid yourself of the error messages?
 

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Ah ok, I removed the negative and fuse but I'm still getting the exact same dash errors - aux switches and ESS not available. Does it require pulling the battery entirely to rid yourself of the error messages?
Why leave it?
 

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GeeFours

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Why leave it?
From reading this thread, it seemed like the desired effect could be achieved by leaving it in place and frankly, saving me from removing the fuse box. That, and I needed to do something quickly before parasitic drain on the main might leave me stranded. I'm hoping maybe just clearing codes can rid me of the error messages that no longer apply since the battery is now disabled.
 

Wrangler man

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Look up this in the JL WRANGLER FORUM shared by Sting it has all the answers. .
[ AUX battery delete/bypass - Which method is proper?]
 
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Jebiruph

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Ah ok, I removed the negative and fuse but I'm still getting the exact same dash errors - aux switches and ESS not available. Does it require pulling the battery entirely to rid yourself of the error messages?
Those errors are based on the status of the main battery not the aux battery.
 

GeeFours

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Those errors are based on the status of the main battery not the aux battery.
Makes sense, its 4 years old, though the Autozone people told me it's totally fine just this week. Probably best to replace it by now.
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