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JL - Trailer Brake Controller

Badweissenbier

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THE DEFINITIVE SOLUTION to install brake control WITHOUT dash error lights
To add a bit of credibility - I am a RVDA Certified Technician (camper mechanic) and work at the largest RV dealer in central Wisconsin. We install a TON of brake controls, and I have a strong electrical background and understanding. I own a 2019 JLUR with factory tow.

From what I can tell NO ONE makes a brake control wiring harness for the 2018-2019 Jeep Wrangler (new body style) w/ factory tow pkg.

Curt lists one (51458)– but I have confirmed that it is incorrectly pinned and will not work.

The reason none of the existing harnesses will work is the same as the problem that plagued the 2013-2014 Dodge Ram 1500 trucks that took tekonsha 3 years to develop a harness that wouldn’t fry the truck computer… When manually operating the brake control – the controller will send voltage back into the dark side of the brake light switch to activate the vehicle and trailer brake lights. On a 13-14 RAM, the “switch” isnt a switch… it’s a computer. Send power into it where it doesn’t belong and you got a new stinky paperweight. The harness that tekonsha developed has a diode (check valve for electrical) in-line on the brake signal wire (red). This allows the vehicle to send power to activate the brake control, but prevents the brake control from sending power back to the vehicle to activate the lights on override.

Several of you have found that the Tekonsha 3014 harness works! ...well, until your dash lit up like a Christmas tree...
The 3014 harness has the correct plug and the correct pinout - that's why it works, but it is missing the diode that is required to block the brake control from sending voltage back into the computer.
I have EVERY tekonsha quick harness in stock. I grabbed a 3014 and confirmed it to plug into my jeep. Then I pulled every harness with the correct vehicle side plugin and compared...

My findings are;

The 3014 harness is a direct fit – but does not have a diode.

The 3021 harness fits – it needs the black and blue wires swapped and also does not have a diode.

The 3023 harness will not fit as it has two separate connectors. (a separate connector is used for the brake signal wire)

The 3024 harness fits – it needs the black and blue wires swapped and ALREADY HAS A DIODE INSTALLED!

The 3065 harness fits – the whole pinout is messed up, it’s intended for a Ford. (the first four harnesses are all Chrysler)


Coincidently, the “fit chart” for the Curt harness (51458) that is listed for the new wrangler matches the Tekonsha 3024 “fit chart”.

I’m not a Curt fan - reasons are mostly based upon ethics with how they treat the retailers that handle their products... However, because they listed it as fitting the new JL, I contacted their dealer tech line and confirmed that the harness DOES have the required diode, and that the pinout of the vehicle plug DOES NOT MATCH their 51460 harness (same as the 3014 that "works" but messes with the dash lights). They published 51458 fit compatibility with the new JL without even confirming that it works!!!!!
To give them credit - their tech that I spoke with was very polite and provided me with the pinouts and confirmation of the presence of a diode within the brake signal wire in an educated way. (not like at the auto parts counter when you ask for a 3157 headlamp and they ask you what kind of vehicle it is for...) He was also intrigued to hear my findings - we will see if they make an addendum to the fit guide that the black and blue pins have to be swapped for the new JL...

Anyway, I have not seen a company that offers a DIRECT fit harness for the new wrangler (or even mentions making it work), so while we wait a couple years for the aftermarket to flip two wires and come up with a new part number, the rest of us can use the tekonsha 3024 harness and swap the black and blue wires. (bonus – if this harness is installed without swapping the wires, it will not cause any damage to the vehicle or controller, the controller just wont power up!)

NOW, I must add that the diode DISABLES the ability for the brake controller to illuminate the brake lights on the vehicle and trailer under override. (only an issue when using the manual "slider" button on the brake control... typically only used to setup brake controller, testing trailer brakes, and in emergent situations)
I don't want to get into legalities, so check with your own state... It is my understanding that in California (maybe some other states too) it is REQUIRED BY LAW that the brake lights illuminate any time ANY braking force is applied. If you travel through any state that has this requirement, an ADDITIONAL harness (30235) can be installed to add that functionality while maintaining the protection of the computer. The text right from Tekonshas part description "California Compliant - Our Brake Control Stop Light Adapter is designed for brake controls and/or vehicles that do not activate the stop lights on a trailer when the manual lever of the brake control is engaged. This is necessary in the state of California."

Parts needed:
Tekonsha Harness #3024
Tekonsha Brake Light Kit #30235 (only required in states that require brake lights when using override)
Proportional Brake Controller of Choice (do NOT get a timer based controller - they only to make you legal, they are not safe)

If you made it all the way to the end - thanks! I can get a little long winded, but I am very analytical and detailed...

If any of you ever need a brake controller installed for fear of modifying a harness - or need any camper related work, I am very proud of our dealership. We just had a couple guys finish their technician certification - We now have the most RVDA certified technicians at any single facility in the entire state! Not too bad for a little mom and pop shop! I am in the process of setting up a blog with technical how-to write-ups on RV related topics, a lot like this one! Check out our website if you are interested. www.greenewayrv.com

Happy Jeeping!
I confirmed your findings on the curt 51458 as well and like you said it just needs the black and blue wires swapped. It definitely has a diode in the red wire. So it should work once the wires are swapped
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Ozjeeper1

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I ordered a JLU with the Electrical group that has the 7 pin wiring etc etc.
For those with this factory tow, where about is the plug and play under the dash located?
 

fcnacht1

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You don't have to have the 'factory tow package' which includes the plug and play harness under the dash for a brake controller. That being said, you still need a 7-pin connection to connect the camper to your vehicle. There are a number of solutions out there, but I wanted mine to be factory as possible so I purchased the factory 7-pin kit (Mopar 82215398AB) and installed it to get the 7/4 way connectors. I purchased this from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Mopar-82215896-Trailer-Harness-Wrangler/dp/B07BQXDFC3). It does take some time to install, but at the end of the day it is plug and play without needing anything being done at the dealer. The tutorial on the forum is spot on for the install. I believe it took me around 4 hours. Another note on the 7 pin and the hitch. If you have the mopar hitch and the mopar 7 pin wiring kit all is good. But there are a number of hitches, when I was looking, that do not work with the mopar 7 pin. The curt hitch doesn't work with mopar wiring mount on the bumper. It covers up the hole that the 7 pin screws into. So, just one more thing to remember. I purchased my hitch here: https://www.cjponyparts.com/mopar-t...mper-jeep-wrangler-jl-2018-2019/p/68251844AB/

The next step is the brake controller to control the brakes on the camper. Since you do not have the tow option from the factory, which means you do not have the quick connect under the dash for the brake controller, you will need to go a different route. Others are talking about tapping into the 3rd brake light and other things, which will work, but I did not want to do all of that. I decided to spend a little more money on the curt wireless brake controller. I purchased through etrailer (https://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Controller/Curt/C51180.html). You can find discount codes for 5%-10% off as well. The advantage is that once you plug it into the 7-pin, you are done. No wires. Nothing screwed into your dash. You can also take it to ANY vehicle you want. It works via bluetooth and remembers your preferences. If you do not connect it to your phone it remembers the last settings used and still works. I have enjoyed it for what it is.... I have towed my camper roughly 1000 miles with the brake controller with no issues.

All of that said I have roughly $500 in adding the 'tow package.' 4 hours of installation time. Countless hours of research lol. I wish the Jeep had the factory tow option from the factory because it is a pain in the rear, but my wife found the 'one she had to have' on the lot and I am a sucker for my wife.

I was looking at a similar 7 way wiring harness as the one you got on amazon, but the one they offer at CJ instead (https://www.cjponyparts.com/mopar-t...-way-jeep-wrangler-jl-2018-2019/p/82215398AB/). It looks like the 2 are nearly identical. If I understand your post correctly, then it seems that the wireless controller from etrailer eliminates the need for any use of the blue wire coming from the 7 way harness package (since you aren't using an under dash mounted system). Do I understand this correctly - just the combination of the 7 way harness and the wireless plug in and I am good to go?
 

fcnacht1

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THE DEFINITIVE SOLUTION to install brake control WITHOUT dash error lights
To add a bit of credibility - I am a RVDA Certified Technician (camper mechanic) and work at the largest RV dealer in central Wisconsin. We install a TON of brake controls, and I have a strong electrical background and understanding. I own a 2019 JLUR with factory tow.

From what I can tell NO ONE makes a brake control wiring harness for the 2018-2019 Jeep Wrangler (new body style) w/ factory tow pkg.

Curt lists one (51458)– but I have confirmed that it is incorrectly pinned and will not work.

The reason none of the existing harnesses will work is the same as the problem that plagued the 2013-2014 Dodge Ram 1500 trucks that took tekonsha 3 years to develop a harness that wouldn’t fry the truck computer… When manually operating the brake control – the controller will send voltage back into the dark side of the brake light switch to activate the vehicle and trailer brake lights. On a 13-14 RAM, the “switch” isnt a switch… it’s a computer. Send power into it where it doesn’t belong and you got a new stinky paperweight. The harness that tekonsha developed has a diode (check valve for electrical) in-line on the brake signal wire (red). This allows the vehicle to send power to activate the brake control, but prevents the brake control from sending power back to the vehicle to activate the lights on override.

Several of you have found that the Tekonsha 3014 harness works! ...well, until your dash lit up like a Christmas tree...
The 3014 harness has the correct plug and the correct pinout - that's why it works, but it is missing the diode that is required to block the brake control from sending voltage back into the computer.
I have EVERY tekonsha quick harness in stock. I grabbed a 3014 and confirmed it to plug into my jeep. Then I pulled every harness with the correct vehicle side plugin and compared...

My findings are;

The 3014 harness is a direct fit – but does not have a diode.

The 3021 harness fits – it needs the black and blue wires swapped and also does not have a diode.

The 3023 harness will not fit as it has two separate connectors. (a separate connector is used for the brake signal wire)

The 3024 harness fits – it needs the black and blue wires swapped and ALREADY HAS A DIODE INSTALLED!

The 3065 harness fits – the whole pinout is messed up, it’s intended for a Ford. (the first four harnesses are all Chrysler)


Coincidently, the “fit chart” for the Curt harness (51458) that is listed for the new wrangler matches the Tekonsha 3024 “fit chart”.

I’m not a Curt fan - reasons are mostly based upon ethics with how they treat the retailers that handle their products... However, because they listed it as fitting the new JL, I contacted their dealer tech line and confirmed that the harness DOES have the required diode, and that the pinout of the vehicle plug DOES NOT MATCH their 51460 harness (same as the 3014 that "works" but messes with the dash lights). They published 51458 fit compatibility with the new JL without even confirming that it works!!!!!
To give them credit - their tech that I spoke with was very polite and provided me with the pinouts and confirmation of the presence of a diode within the brake signal wire in an educated way. (not like at the auto parts counter when you ask for a 3157 headlamp and they ask you what kind of vehicle it is for...) He was also intrigued to hear my findings - we will see if they make an addendum to the fit guide that the black and blue pins have to be swapped for the new JL...

Anyway, I have not seen a company that offers a DIRECT fit harness for the new wrangler (or even mentions making it work), so while we wait a couple years for the aftermarket to flip two wires and come up with a new part number, the rest of us can use the tekonsha 3024 harness and swap the black and blue wires. (bonus – if this harness is installed without swapping the wires, it will not cause any damage to the vehicle or controller, the controller just wont power up!)

NOW, I must add that the diode DISABLES the ability for the brake controller to illuminate the brake lights on the vehicle and trailer under override. (only an issue when using the manual "slider" button on the brake control... typically only used to setup brake controller, testing trailer brakes, and in emergent situations)
I don't want to get into legalities, so check with your own state... It is my understanding that in California (maybe some other states too) it is REQUIRED BY LAW that the brake lights illuminate any time ANY braking force is applied. If you travel through any state that has this requirement, an ADDITIONAL harness (30235) can be installed to add that functionality while maintaining the protection of the computer. The text right from Tekonshas part description "California Compliant - Our Brake Control Stop Light Adapter is designed for brake controls and/or vehicles that do not activate the stop lights on a trailer when the manual lever of the brake control is engaged. This is necessary in the state of California."

Parts needed:
Tekonsha Harness #3024
Tekonsha Brake Light Kit #30235 (only required in states that require brake lights when using override)
Proportional Brake Controller of Choice (do NOT get a timer based controller - they only to make you legal, they are not safe)

If you made it all the way to the end - thanks! I can get a little long winded, but I am very analytical and detailed...

If any of you ever need a brake controller installed for fear of modifying a harness - or need any camper related work, I am very proud of our dealership. We just had a couple guys finish their technician certification - We now have the most RVDA certified technicians at any single facility in the entire state! Not too bad for a little mom and pop shop! I am in the process of setting up a blog with technical how-to write-ups on RV related topics, a lot like this one! Check out our website if you are interested. www.greenewayrv.com

Happy Jeeping!

I am curious what your thoughts are on the Curt wireless brake controller (https://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Cont...OxYJ4WNFvE7ypCDOzDSVY32DWXhLYJrxoCAckQAvD_BwE).
 

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tmcarr

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I am curious what your thoughts are on the Curt wireless brake controller (https://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Cont...OxYJ4WNFvE7ypCDOzDSVY32DWXhLYJrxoCAckQAvD_BwE).
I really like the Curt Echo Mobile. I have had it for several months, used it on several trips and it has performed flawlessly. It connects every time, it has never lost connection (even though it is supposed to continue to function even if it looses connection with smartphone). It also allows me to use it on multiple vehicles. I couldn't be happier with it. (I own no stock in Curt) ;-)
 

fcnacht1

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I really like the Curt Echo Mobile. I have had it for several months, used it on several trips and it has performed flawlessly. It connects every time, it has never lost connection (even though it is supposed to continue to function even if it looses connection with smartphone). It also allows me to use it on multiple vehicles. I couldn't be happier with it. (I own no stock in Curt) ;-)
So there is no need for a separate line supplying power to the trailer brakes like from a conventional brake controller? Power is supplied via the 7 way harness?
 

tmcarr

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So there is no need for a separate line supplying power to the trailer brakes like from a conventional brake controller? Power is supplied via the 7 way harness?
You have to have the 12VDC wire within your 7-way plug connected to 12 volt power (this provides power to the Curt Echo Mobile). But you do not need the Blue (brake trigger) wire from your 7-way plug connected to anything. The brakes are triggered proportionally by the accelerometers built in the Curt Echo Mobile. They work really well; apply a little TV brake and the Curt provides a little braking to the trailer, apply a lot of brake at the TV and the Curt applies a lot of braking to the trailer. It also show on a relative indicator on your smartphone how much braking it is applying. You also have manual braking control of the trailer brakes by pressing and holding the big orange button on your smartphone. I have my smartphone mounted within easy access of my steering wheel if I need the manual braking...I find I don't need it often.
 

fcnacht1

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You have to have the 12VDC wire within your 7-way plug connected to 12 volt power (this provides power to the Curt Echo Mobile). But you do not need the Blue (brake trigger) wire from your 7-way plug connected to anything. The brakes are triggered proportionally by the accelerometers built in the Curt Echo Mobile. They work really well; apply a little TV brake and the Curt provides a little braking to the trailer, apply a lot of brake at the TV and the Curt applies a lot of braking to the trailer. It also show on a relative indicator on your smartphone how much braking it is applying. You also have manual braking control of the trailer brakes by pressing and holding the big orange button on your smartphone. I have my smartphone mounted within easy access of my steering wheel if I need the manual braking...I find I don't need it often.
Got it. Thank you so much for the explanation!!
 

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So there is no need for a separate line supplying power to the trailer brakes like from a conventional brake controller? Power is supplied via the 7 way harness?
Plug it in, connect to your Bluetooth phone, adjust your sensitivity, and forget it. NO WIRING AT ALL and It cost less than the wired brake controller installation on my former JK. Negative reviews on Amazon from what I can tell are from people who do not know how to connect anything to Bluetooth, or don't have the mental capacity to be pulling a trailer requiring brakes.
 

thehangingchad

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I was looking at a similar 7 way wiring harness as the one you got on amazon, but the one they offer at CJ instead (https://www.cjponyparts.com/mopar-t...-way-jeep-wrangler-jl-2018-2019/p/82215398AB/). It looks like the 2 are nearly identical. If I understand your post correctly, then it seems that the wireless controller from etrailer eliminates the need for any use of the blue wire coming from the 7 way harness package (since you aren't using an under dash mounted system). Do I understand this correctly - just the combination of the 7 way harness and the wireless plug in and I am good to go?
That is correct. Once you wire the 7 way the brake controller will get its power directly from there. The blue wire is not used at all.
 

fcnacht1

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That is correct. Once you wire the 7 way the brake controller will get its power directly from there. The blue wire is not used at all.

Ok - so my Mopar 7 way wire harness system arrived today - and tomorrow is the big installation. Anyone know if I need to install the 30 amp fuses to locations F36 and F37 on the fuse panel under the hood?
 

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THE DEFINITIVE SOLUTION to install brake control WITHOUT dash error lights
To add a bit of credibility - I am a RVDA Certified Technician (camper mechanic) and work at the largest RV dealer in central Wisconsin. We install a TON of brake controls, and I have a strong electrical background and understanding. I own a 2019 JLUR with factory tow.

From what I can tell NO ONE makes a brake control wiring harness for the 2018-2019 Jeep Wrangler (new body style) w/ factory tow pkg.

Curt lists one (51458)– but I have confirmed that it is incorrectly pinned and will not work.

The reason none of the existing harnesses will work is the same as the problem that plagued the 2013-2014 Dodge Ram 1500 trucks that took tekonsha 3 years to develop a harness that wouldn’t fry the truck computer… When manually operating the brake control – the controller will send voltage back into the dark side of the brake light switch to activate the vehicle and trailer brake lights. On a 13-14 RAM, the “switch” isnt a switch… it’s a computer. Send power into it where it doesn’t belong and you got a new stinky paperweight. The harness that tekonsha developed has a diode (check valve for electrical) in-line on the brake signal wire (red). This allows the vehicle to send power to activate the brake control, but prevents the brake control from sending power back to the vehicle to activate the lights on override.

Several of you have found that the Tekonsha 3014 harness works! ...well, until your dash lit up like a Christmas tree...
The 3014 harness has the correct plug and the correct pinout - that's why it works, but it is missing the diode that is required to block the brake control from sending voltage back into the computer.
I have EVERY tekonsha quick harness in stock. I grabbed a 3014 and confirmed it to plug into my jeep. Then I pulled every harness with the correct vehicle side plugin and compared...

My findings are;

The 3014 harness is a direct fit – but does not have a diode.

The 3021 harness fits – it needs the black and blue wires swapped and also does not have a diode.

The 3023 harness will not fit as it has two separate connectors. (a separate connector is used for the brake signal wire)

The 3024 harness fits – it needs the black and blue wires swapped and ALREADY HAS A DIODE INSTALLED!

The 3065 harness fits – the whole pinout is messed up, it’s intended for a Ford. (the first four harnesses are all Chrysler)


Coincidently, the “fit chart” for the Curt harness (51458) that is listed for the new wrangler matches the Tekonsha 3024 “fit chart”.

I’m not a Curt fan - reasons are mostly based upon ethics with how they treat the retailers that handle their products... However, because they listed it as fitting the new JL, I contacted their dealer tech line and confirmed that the harness DOES have the required diode, and that the pinout of the vehicle plug DOES NOT MATCH their 51460 harness (same as the 3014 that "works" but messes with the dash lights). They published 51458 fit compatibility with the new JL without even confirming that it works!!!!!
To give them credit - their tech that I spoke with was very polite and provided me with the pinouts and confirmation of the presence of a diode within the brake signal wire in an educated way. (not like at the auto parts counter when you ask for a 3157 headlamp and they ask you what kind of vehicle it is for...) He was also intrigued to hear my findings - we will see if they make an addendum to the fit guide that the black and blue pins have to be swapped for the new JL...

Anyway, I have not seen a company that offers a DIRECT fit harness for the new wrangler (or even mentions making it work), so while we wait a couple years for the aftermarket to flip two wires and come up with a new part number, the rest of us can use the tekonsha 3024 harness and swap the black and blue wires. (bonus – if this harness is installed without swapping the wires, it will not cause any damage to the vehicle or controller, the controller just wont power up!)

NOW, I must add that the diode DISABLES the ability for the brake controller to illuminate the brake lights on the vehicle and trailer under override. (only an issue when using the manual "slider" button on the brake control... typically only used to setup brake controller, testing trailer brakes, and in emergent situations)
I don't want to get into legalities, so check with your own state... It is my understanding that in California (maybe some other states too) it is REQUIRED BY LAW that the brake lights illuminate any time ANY braking force is applied. If you travel through any state that has this requirement, an ADDITIONAL harness (30235) can be installed to add that functionality while maintaining the protection of the computer. The text right from Tekonshas part description "California Compliant - Our Brake Control Stop Light Adapter is designed for brake controls and/or vehicles that do not activate the stop lights on a trailer when the manual lever of the brake control is engaged. This is necessary in the state of California."

Parts needed:
Tekonsha Harness #3024
Tekonsha Brake Light Kit #30235 (only required in states that require brake lights when using override)
Proportional Brake Controller of Choice (do NOT get a timer based controller - they only to make you legal, they are not safe)

If you made it all the way to the end - thanks! I can get a little long winded, but I am very analytical and detailed...

If any of you ever need a brake controller installed for fear of modifying a harness - or need any camper related work, I am very proud of our dealership. We just had a couple guys finish their technician certification - We now have the most RVDA certified technicians at any single facility in the entire state! Not too bad for a little mom and pop shop! I am in the process of setting up a blog with technical how-to write-ups on RV related topics, a lot like this one! Check out our website if you are interested. www.greenewayrv.com

Happy Jeeping!
So for those who flipped the wires on 3024, how did you do it? Did you cut the wires and re-solder them together?

I am not very good at electrics, so still trying to figure out an easy way to do it.
 

Badweissenbier

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So for those who flipped the wires on 3024, how did you do it? Did you cut the wires and re-solder them together?

I am not very good at electrics, so still trying to figure out an easy way to do it.
Just pulled the pins/wires from the connector and put them in the other slot.
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