Input on Differential Covers

[Byrds8]

I am thinking about going ahead and changing out my fluids and covers. What are you thoughts on the below covers? Would the OEM gasket be ok or do you guys recommend something different? Also, I seem to recall somewhere that you guys recommend a different weight oil that what is in the manual? Thanks for the input.

https://www.quadratec.com/p/arb/competition-differential-cover-jeep-wrangler-jl-gladiator-jt

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[Mx5red]

I got the ARB specifically so I could change fluid and check level easily. I don’t think people who are used to working on cars see it as a big deal to unbolt a cover to change it, and you get to inspect the gears for whatever that’s worth.
One thing I’m running into is is also like to use a diff skid, and I don’t think any of the typical ones fit the ARB cover because the surface is uneven. The metalcloak rear diff skid fits because it doesn’t mount in the diff cover, it has u-bolts off to the side.
This is fine unless you plan on mounting something else with u-bolts in the same spot?
Some people who tow, or in Gladiators, run heavier oil like a 75W-140. Not sure how necessary that is

 

[Byrds8]

I personally do not want to mess with pulling the covers off all the time. That is why I looked at ARB also because of the drain plugs. Jeep apparently removed those on the 22s. Kinda sucks. I also do not plan on rock crawling so I do not think I need skid plates. I do not tow at this time but just recall reading somewhere the rear should have the heavier oil. Cant recall where or why it was said.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Honestly, unless you have a reason not to pull the covers, the OEM gaskets are reusable almost "forever" (mine were on and off 10 times minimum before I installed my Motobilts).

Since you are not doing any of the things that would require heavier duty covers and unless you just want new ones, I would keep the OEMs and just remove them to change the fluid. It is a very simple operation.

I would also use 75W-140 gear oil whether towing or not given the heat these axles generate and the fact that FCA reduced the fluid capacity from the JK series.

 

[Byrds8]

Honestly, unless you have a reason not to pull the covers, the OEM gaskets are reusable almost "forever" (mine were on and off 10 times minimum before I installed my Motobilts).

Since you are not doing any of the things that would require heavier duty covers and unless you just want new ones, I would keep the OEMs and just remove them to change the fluid. It is a very simple operation.

I would also use 75W-140 gear oil whether towing or not given the heat these axles generate and the fact that FCA reduced the fluid capacity from the JK series.

I know its not overly complicated to remove the bolts, clean it up and put it back on but its even simpler to just pull a single plug and be done with it. Not to mention, easier on the back and shoulders etc from getting down there. That is the biggest reason for wanting to change them out.

Use the 75W/140 on both front and rear or just the rear and 110 on the front?

Thanks for the heads up on the gaskets being reusable. That helps.

 

[CarbonSteel]

I know its not overly complicated to remove the bolts, clean it up and put it back on but its even simpler to just pull a single plug and be done with it. Not to mention, easier on the back and shoulders etc from getting down there. That is the biggest reason for wanting to change them out.

Use the 75W/140 on both front and rear or just the rear and 110 on the front?

Thanks for the heads up on the gaskets being reusable. That helps.

I would use 75W-140 in both. There are only two companies who make 75W-110 that can be readily obtained (Amsoil and Redline, but Ravenol makes it if you can find it). You could mix 75W-90 and 75W-140 at a 50/50 ratio to make your own 75W-110 if you wanted.

75W-90 = 16.0 kV @100°C
75W-110 = 20.5 kV @100°C
75W-140 = 25.9 kV @100°C

50/50 of 75W-90 + 75W-140 = 20.2 kV @100°C

 

[Byrds8]

I would use 75W-140 in both. There are only two companies who make 75W-110 that can be readily obtained (Amsoil and Redline, but Ravenol makes it if you can find it). You could mix 75W-90 and 75W-140 at a 50/50 ratio to make your own 75W-110 if you wanted.

75W-90 = 16.0 kV @100°C
75W-110 = 20.5 kV @100°C
75W-140 = 25.9 kV @100°C

50/50 of 75W-90 + 75W-140 = 20.2 kV @100°C

If 75W/140 isnt going to hurt anything, Im down for it. Even more so if its better for it. I am probably going to actually order Amsoil for both. It really isnt much more expensive that Mobil 1 at Autozone but a better quality oil. Would be my first use of Amsoil. I put Pennzoil Platinum in the engine.

Guess next month I know what Ill be doing now lol. This will come in handy in the log run as I commute 75 miles round trip each day. Half of it down the interstate.

 

[CarbonSteel]

If 75W/140 isnt going to hurt anything, Im down for it. Even more so if its better for it. I am probably going to actually order Amsoil for both. It really isnt much more expensive that Mobil 1 at Autozone but a better quality oil. Would be my first use of Amsoil. I put Pennzoil Platinum in the engine.

Guess next month I know what Ill be doing now lol. This will come in handy in the log run as I commute 75 miles round trip each day. Half of it down the interstate.

Aside from 85W-140 (or straight 140), 75W-140 will be the most protection that you can get and works well in cold and hot temperatures whereas 85W-140 does not (too thick in the cold and breaks down with heat before a synthetic will).

One thing to note is if you have very low miles on your axles, they may not be fully broken in yet (meaning that more metal will be created) so you will want to wait until you have at least 10K on it before changing it.

While Amsoil is arguably one of the best out there (especially for viscosity retention over a long OCI), and I have used it for more than a decade, I opted not to use it in my Wrangler simply because I change it more often than makes sense to use Amsoil.

Valvoline, Castrol, or Mobil will accomplish the same and is more readily available (just food for thought).

 

[Byrds8]

Aside from 85W-140 (or straight 140), 75W-140 will be the most protection that you can get and works well in cold and hot temperatures whereas 85W-140 does not (too thick in the cold and breaks down with heat before a synthetic will).

One thing to note is if you have very low miles on your axles, they may not be fully broken in yet (meaning that more metal will be created) so you will want to wait until you have at least 10K on it before changing it.

While Amsoil is arguably one of the best out there (especially for viscosity retention over a long OCI), and I have used it for more than a decade, I opted not to use it in my Wrangler simply because I change it more often than makes sense to use Amsoil.

Valvoline, Castrol, or Mobil will accomplish the same and is more readily available (just food for thought).

I am just under 8K now and put roughly 300 or so a week. Since it will be sometime in March, I figure Ill be pretty damn close to the 10K mark. I may be a few 100 under but I dont think that would make a huge difference in break in. Ive changed the engine oil twice now just for good measure :D. But with that, its not overly costly at $27 for the jug of oil.

 

[jhackathorne]

While I can’t speak to the ARB covers, I can say if you wheel in rocks you will scrape up your factory covers/bolts. I changed out my front cover and added a skid from MetalCloak. For rear I left the cover and added a Rough Country skid. Both covers require to remove/loosen some bolts and I had several that would have been an issue if I hadn’t made the changes. The ARB uses recessed hex so that’ll prevent you from shearing off any bolt heads.

I too am running 75W-140 Valvoline full synthetic gear and it seems to be just fine with the change in weight.

 

[ChuckQue]

I personally went with the Dana Advantek covers figuring they were OEM in a way. I like the factory+ look to them and they are super beefy. Thanks @Roky for the inspiration!

 

[Roky]

I personally went with the Dana Advantek covers figuring they were OEM in a way. I like the factory+ look to them and they are super beefy. Thanks @Roky for the inspiration!

That looks great man !…. crap, you’re gonna make me go clean mine up……..?

 

[Byrds8]

I personally went with the Dana Advantek covers figuring they were OEM in a way. I like the factory+ look to them and they are super beefy. Thanks @Roky for the inspiration!

That does look nice. If it had drain plugs I would like those better lol.

 

[ChuckQue]

That does look nice. If it had drain plugs I would like those better lol.

Yeah, drain plugs would be nice don’t get me wrong. At the end of the day it’s so easy to just crack the bottom open to drain thanks to the reusable gasket that the drain plug wasn’t a deal breaker for me. I figured with the Dana cover the dealer can’t argue they caused warranty issues. Or they can try and I’ll shut them up ?

 

[Byrds8]

Yeah, drain plugs would be nice don’t get me wrong. At the end of the day it’s so easy to just crack the bottom open to drain thanks to the reusable gasket that the drain plug wasn’t a deal breaker for me. I figured with the Dana cover the dealer can’t argue they caused warranty issues. Or they can try and I’ll shut them up ?

lol. I thought you had to remove the entire cover and such to drain it not just crack the bottom? If I can just crack it and let it drain then refill, thst may be a whole new ballgame. I could save $400 for something else rofl.

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