How long to adjust front control arms after drop bracket?

[gonzoflick]

So I have a metalcloak 3.5 game changer. Tomorrow I'm installing their "HD Proalignment" front drop bracket. The metal cloak guys told me to return my arms to stock length with this bracket. I pulled my lowers out and they are like 25.5" eye to eye. Stock is 24". Not sure why they were so long after the lift (shop did it). Should I keep them 25.5 or bring them to stock 24"?

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[ScotM]

Should be based on the caster angle you want. Ultimately, the correct length of the arms is the caster angle of 6-7 degrees. I would be inclined to start at the length Metalclosk suggested and then check the caster angle.

 

[Roky]

So I have a metalcloak 3.5 game changer. Tomorrow I'm installing their "HD Proalignment" front drop bracket. The metal cloak guys told me to return my arms to stock length with this bracket. I pulled my lowers out and they are like 25.5" eye to eye. Stock is 24". Not sure why they were so long after the lift (shop did it). Should I keep them 25.5 or bring them to stock 24"?

MC has you set uppers at 19-3/4” and lowers at 24” to get you at 6 degrees caster, so I’d check to see what the shop set your uppers at.. when you use the drop brackets, it pushes the axle forward, so you need to set your control arms accordingly to get 6 degrees caster, or whatever caster you want to run…..

 

[gonzoflick]

Ok the uppers are stock length. I'll return the lowers to 24" and keep the lock joints loose so alignment shop can bring them to the 5 degrees. I thought that was the goal

 

[gonzoflick]

On another note I decided to pull all the metalcloak Durocloak bushings out of the rods and they were all dry. So I gresed them all to hell. They say no maintenance but when anyone gets a chance you should lube them

 

[ScotM]

Ok the uppers are stock length. I'll return the lowers to 24" and keep the lock joints loose so alignment shop can bring them to the 5 degrees. I thought that was the goal

On a lift, should be a bit more caster. 6 will drive better

 

[Aonarch]

Ok the uppers are stock length. I'll return the lowers to 24" and keep the lock joints loose so alignment shop can bring them to the 5 degrees. I thought that was the goal

If you wrench yourself, I'd skip the alignment shop and DIY.

Get a digital degree gauge (Cheap) to check caster.

Either toe plates, or just use two levels on the brake rotor, or tire for toe adjustments.

Drag link adjustment can take a few back and forths with road tests. Alignment shops don't want to do that to make it perfect.

If you have an adjustable track bar, that is DIY as well with a tape measurer.

Alignment shop will just adjust toe and go.

These are the easiest vehicles to align, and DIY you can get a better alignment than a shop as well.

Checking caster.



^ DIY toe plates. In the past I used two identical levels, bungie corded to the tires or brake rotors. Now I have the bleepingjeep toe plates with two identical tape measurers.

 

[GaryToo]

Keep in mind toe plate were originally made for race car tires with lettering painted on . Depending where the tire is when you use them on our tires with raised letters of different size letters could alone screw with you measurements .like one end of the plate on letters and the other end not on any letters , double that difference if its the same on the other tire . I have the plates but don't use them on raised letter tires. Same with strapping levels to the tire . I made spacers that sit on the edge of the rims to support 1x1 square aluminum tubing 36" long or clamp on to rotors

 

[Wabujitsu]

On a lift, should be a bit more caster. 6 will drive better

With a FAD, can’t you go higher? I’m at about 7.5, and mine drives remarkably well (with an aftermarket HD tie rod and drag link).

 

[LazyJL]

With the front end jacked up, on jack stands and the tires removed, I clamp the toe plates to the rotors, for the most accurate setting.
The toe doesn't not changed when jacked up unlike the TJ's and XJ's "Y"-steering linkage whose toe-in changes as the front is lifted.

 

[ScotM]

With a FAD, can’t you go higher? I’m at about 7.5, and mine drives remarkably well (with an aftermarket HD tie rod and drag link).

I suppose you can go higher. Mines only 2.5 inch lift so 6 seems to drive fine

 

[Aonarch]

With the front end jacked up, on jack stands and the tires removed, I clamp the toe plates to the rotors, for the most accurate setting.
The toe doesn't not changed when jacked up unlike the TJ's and XJ's "Y"-steering linkage whose toe-in changes as the front is lifted.

This is exactly what I do. Very simple to do.

 

[Wabujitsu]

I suppose you can go higher. Mines only 2.5 inch lift so 6 seems to drive fine

Scot, mine is also lifted 2.5” with 2” wheel spacers and 35”MTs.

 

[ScotM]

Scot, mine is also lifted 2.5” with 2” wheel spacers and 35”MTs.

1.75 spacers and Toyo open country 35”s.

 

[ScotM]

1.75 spacers and Toyo open country 35”s.

When I installed my core 4x4 control arms , I pretty much set them to th mopar 2” lift lengths

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