Help, Metal chunks found in axle

[YY1985YY]

*Update 3

I’m worried.. Advisor told me that they need to order parts again, because they got the “older version” and that I have the “newer version”, referring to the carrier they were replacing along with bearings. What is he talking about because he could not explain it to me. I asked him if they ordered the correct components to start with, that I don’t have the Dana 35 rear axle. It’s the Dana 44 rear axle (*only manual transmission Sport S’s come with them even if I didn’t opt in for the LSD option). He said not to worry but couldn’t answer my question.

Now I’m worried that they tried to install incorrect/Dana 35 parts inside the Dana 44 differential, is that even possible? Anyone know if the service sheet shows the exact part #’s they used so that I can make sure everything is correct? I can’t trust my service advisor and his incompetence.

Sponsored

 

[InvertedLogic]

Now I’m worried that they tried to install incorrect/Dana 35 parts inside the Dana 44 differential, is that even possible?

They could try but it sure wouldn't work lol. The housing is a completely different size.

In my experience, the service adviser never knows much.

 

[maj-gladiator]

So sorry to see this! I would like to get you connected with a case manager so they can work with you and the dealership to ensure everything is resolved when you go in for your appointment. Please send your VIN in a private message so we can get started.

Kaitlin
Jeep Cares

I dropped off my 2021 Willys JT for a lift and differential cover change. I have 7,000 miles on it. The installer called me to report finding a chunk of metal caught by the magnet. See picture. There doesn't appear to be damage to the gear teeth. I've never seen that, nor has his shop. It does bring to mind that I occasionally hear a sound from the area of the rear differential, but never isolated the sound. My installer thinks it might be cast iron from the housing, but can't tell where it came from. What do you recommend that I do now?

 

[JeepCares]

I dropped off my 2021 Willys JT for a lift and differential cover change. I have 7,000 miles on it. The installer called me to report finding a chunk of metal caught by the magnet. See picture. There doesn't appear to be damage to the gear teeth. I've never seen that, nor has his shop. It does bring to mind that I occasionally hear a sound from the area of the rear differential, but never isolated the sound. My installer thinks it might be cast iron from the housing, but can't tell where it came from. What do you recommend that I do now?

Hi, maj-gladiator. If you don't find the answers you're looking for from fellow forum members, feel free to shoot us a message. We'd be happy to provide you support if you choose to work with a dealership for repairs.

Kate
Jeep Cares

 

[grimmjeeper]

I dropped off my 2021 Willys JT for a lift and differential cover change. I have 7,000 miles on it. The installer called me to report finding a chunk of metal caught by the magnet. See picture. There doesn't appear to be damage to the gear teeth. I've never seen that, nor has his shop. It does bring to mind that I occasionally hear a sound from the area of the rear differential, but never isolated the sound. My installer thinks it might be cast iron from the housing, but can't tell where it came from. What do you recommend that I do now?

If it were me, I'd pull the carrier and do a very detailed inspection.

Start with the fluid. Does it appear like it has metal dust in it or does it look clear like new oil? If it's got grit in it, there's a chance bearings are prematurely damaged and need to be replaced. Either way, spin the pinion and listen for any grinding noise. If there's still a light film of oil that hasn't been cleaned out, it shouldn't sound like grinding.

After that, take out the carrier so you can get in there and get a good look at all the parts.

Mark the bearing caps with a punch of some kind so you can be sure to put them back on the exact same way they came out (same side, same orientation). These caps have precision clearances and need to go together the same way every time or you can damage things.

Pull the bolts and the caps (the bolts can go back in whichever hole but I usually put them back in where they came from) The carrier may not want to come out easily but pull the carrier out. Make absolutely sure you catch the shims and the bearing races as they will be loose. Keep track of exactly how they came out so you can put them back in exactly the same way. This is very important so be sure you do it. If you don't you can seriously damage the gears as they won't be lined up right when you put it back together.

Get in the differential with brake parts cleaner. Also clean off the carrier and the spider gears in the middle.

Get your eyes on every last tooth of every last gear (ring, pinion, and spider gears) and visually inspect them for any damage. Any bit of metal floating around inside the differential could get drawn in almost anywhere and has the potential to cause problems.

Look around the inside of the case and look for any kind of casting flaw or so forth that would have hit anything on the gears or carrier and been knocked loose. It's possible a casting flaw left a nub sticking up that hit a gear tooth.

If you have damaged gears, replace them. Noisy bearings? Replace them. If the housing has a casting nub that got knocked off but didn't damage anything, you can safely reassemble and fill with gear oil.

 

[maj-gladiator]

If it were me, I'd pull the carrier and do a very detailed inspection.

Start with the fluid. Does it appear like it has metal dust in it or does it look clear like new oil? If it's got grit in it, there's a chance bearings are prematurely damaged and need to be replaced. Either way, spin the pinion and listen for any grinding noise. If there's still a light film of oil that hasn't been cleaned out, it shouldn't sound like grinding.

After that, take out the carrier so you can get in there and get a good look at all the parts.

Mark the bearing caps with a punch of some kind so you can be sure to put them back on the exact same way they came out (same side, same orientation). These caps have precision clearances and need to go together the same way every time or you can damage things.

Pull the bolts and the caps (the bolts can go back in whichever hole but I usually put them back in where they came from) The carrier may not want to come out easily but pull the carrier out. Make absolutely sure you catch the shims and the bearing races as they will be loose. Keep track of exactly how they came out so you can put them back in exactly the same way. This is very important so be sure you do it. If you don't you can seriously damage the gears as they won't be lined up right when you put it back together.

Get in the differential with brake parts cleaner. Also clean off the carrier and the spider gears in the middle.

Get your eyes on every last tooth of every last gear (ring, pinion, and spider gears) and visually inspect them for any damage. Any bit of metal floating around inside the differential could get drawn in almost anywhere and has the potential to cause problems.

Look around the inside of the case and look for any kind of casting flaw or so forth that would have hit anything on the gears or carrier and been knocked loose. It's possible a casting flaw left a nub sticking up that hit a gear tooth.

If you have damaged gears, replace them. Noisy bearings? Replace them. If the housing has a casting nub that got knocked off but didn't damage anything, you can safely reassemble and fill with gear oil.

Hi, maj-gladiator. If you don't find the answers you're looking for from fellow forum members, feel free to shoot us a message. We'd be happy to provide you support if you choose to work with a dealership for repairs.

Kate
Jeep Cares

Thank you. I sent a message to your account earlier today and await a reply.

 

[maj-gladiator]

If it were me, I'd pull the carrier and do a very detailed inspection.

Start with the fluid. Does it appear like it has metal dust in it or does it look clear like new oil? If it's got grit in it, there's a chance bearings are prematurely damaged and need to be replaced. Either way, spin the pinion and listen for any grinding noise. If there's still a light film of oil that hasn't been cleaned out, it shouldn't sound like grinding.

After that, take out the carrier so you can get in there and get a good look at all the parts.

Mark the bearing caps with a punch of some kind so you can be sure to put them back on the exact same way they came out (same side, same orientation). These caps have precision clearances and need to go together the same way every time or you can damage things.

Pull the bolts and the caps (the bolts can go back in whichever hole but I usually put them back in where they came from) The carrier may not want to come out easily but pull the carrier out. Make absolutely sure you catch the shims and the bearing races as they will be loose. Keep track of exactly how they came out so you can put them back in exactly the same way. This is very important so be sure you do it. If you don't you can seriously damage the gears as they won't be lined up right when you put it back together.

Get in the differential with brake parts cleaner. Also clean off the carrier and the spider gears in the middle.

Get your eyes on every last tooth of every last gear (ring, pinion, and spider gears) and visually inspect them for any damage. Any bit of metal floating around inside the differential could get drawn in almost anywhere and has the potential to cause problems.

Look around the inside of the case and look for any kind of casting flaw or so forth that would have hit anything on the gears or carrier and been knocked loose. It's possible a casting flaw left a nub sticking up that hit a gear tooth.

If you have damaged gears, replace them. Noisy bearings? Replace them. If the housing has a casting nub that got knocked off but didn't damage anything, you can safely reassemble and fill with gear oil.

Attached are pictures of them with measurements. The three pieces are each metal and attracted to magnets, if that matters.

 

[word302]

If it were me, I'd pull the carrier and do a very detailed inspection.

Start with the fluid. Does it appear like it has metal dust in it or does it look clear like new oil? If it's got grit in it, there's a chance bearings are prematurely damaged and need to be replaced. Either way, spin the pinion and listen for any grinding noise. If there's still a light film of oil that hasn't been cleaned out, it shouldn't sound like grinding.

After that, take out the carrier so you can get in there and get a good look at all the parts.

Mark the bearing caps with a punch of some kind so you can be sure to put them back on the exact same way they came out (same side, same orientation). These caps have precision clearances and need to go together the same way every time or you can damage things.

Pull the bolts and the caps (the bolts can go back in whichever hole but I usually put them back in where they came from) The carrier may not want to come out easily but pull the carrier out. Make absolutely sure you catch the shims and the bearing races as they will be loose. Keep track of exactly how they came out so you can put them back in exactly the same way. This is very important so be sure you do it. If you don't you can seriously damage the gears as they won't be lined up right when you put it back together.

Get in the differential with brake parts cleaner. Also clean off the carrier and the spider gears in the middle.

Get your eyes on every last tooth of every last gear (ring, pinion, and spider gears) and visually inspect them for any damage. Any bit of metal floating around inside the differential could get drawn in almost anywhere and has the potential to cause problems.

Look around the inside of the case and look for any kind of casting flaw or so forth that would have hit anything on the gears or carrier and been knocked loose. It's possible a casting flaw left a nub sticking up that hit a gear tooth.

If you have damaged gears, replace them. Noisy bearings? Replace them. If the housing has a casting nub that got knocked off but didn't damage anything, you can safely reassemble and fill with gear oil.

I agree with all of this except there are different size bearings on each side of the carrier, so the caps, carrier bearings and sims can only go back on the correct side. Caps have arrows that point out. No need to mark anything. Those are good general rules of thumb when removing most carriers though.

 

[grimmjeeper]

I agree with all of this except there are different size bearings on each side of the carrier, so the caps, carrier bearings and sims can only go back on the correct side. Caps have arrows that point out. No need to mark anything. Those are good general rules of thumb when removing most carriers though.

Good to know. I didn't know that about the JL axles. Most modern axles I've worked on are JK.

Sponsored