Help me decide on a JL build?

[Whsky]

So, I’m trying to decide on a build, I’ve done a fair bit of searching and reading, but am still having trouble deciding on a few things.

First some back story, I reserved a Bronco actually in July 2020. I didn’t bother cross shopping Jeeps until recently because my head is above the roll bar with the seat fully lowered. (Thankfully I learned about seat slammers). As of now I still don’t even have a production estimate, and my experience with Ford trying to get answers has been horrible. I did get to take a 4 door Bronco on 33” ko2s on the dome plateau trail in Moab, and I’ll admit I really liked how it wheeled (4 low being good up to 40mph in the Bronco was also a ton of fun to rip down some stretches between obstacles without having to jump back to 4hi). I test drove some wranglers the other day, and I was very impressed by the ride, truth be told without a back to back drive I don’t think I could say which was more comfortable or handled bumps better at speed.

As for my actual requirements, I‘m planning front and rear lockers, definitely want a Dana 44 front. 35s are in the short term plan, but 37s are a possibility down the road. Led headlights are also pretty high on my list. Unfortunately I need more space than the 2 door offers (it’s too bad there isn’t a modern LJ!), so I’m currently looking at a JLUR, maybe with XR but that gets pricey. The other option I’m considering is a Willys XR, and installing lockers aftermarket. Admittedly, my Bronco order was $40k including destination and had all the above requirements, so I‘d like to keep as close to that ballpark as possible.

As for the XR, I see a big deal made of the cast iron knuckles over the aluminum knuckles. Are the aluminum ones really that fragile? Is swapping the, out a must if I’m actually going to be wheeling it?

Also, if anyone has ACC, how do you like it? Do we know if it still works with tire size changes (especially using taser) and do you have to get it recalibrated when the windshield gets replaced like most systems?

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[Mtenna99]

I can answer your ACC question…I have 37 and 3.5 lift and my ACC works with no issue. I didn’t have to change anything it just worked. You do have to be aware of the situations that cause it to not act smoothly and I just cancel it then restart. I would 100% buy it again with this option.

I opted for $0 comprehensive coverage knowing I will need to replace and it could be expensive.

 

[music293]

I did get to take a 4 door on 33” ko2s on the dome plateau trail in Moab, and I’ll admit I really liked how it wheeled (4 low being good up to 40mph was also a ton of fun to rip down some stretches between obstacles without having to jump back to 4hi).

Just a quick correction - 4 low is only good to 25mph as per the manual. Or at least mine. Cheers!

 

[Whsky]

Just a quick correction - 4 low is only good to 25mph as per the manual. Or at least mine. Cheers!

Oops, I shouldve specified that was off-roading the Bronco! I’ll edit for clarity.

That is a minor the Bronco had that was fun, but switching back to 4hi isn’t a big deal either haha

 

[music293]

Oops, I shouldve specified that was off-roading the Bronco! I’ll edit for clarity.

That is a minor the Bronco had that was fun, but switching back to 4hi isn’t a big deal either haha

Gotcha. I might've misread as well. Good deal!

 

[Philly_]

I would probably do a Rubicon without the XR package if price is the determining factor for going to a willy's. With that, you get everything you would want to run 35's on the street except for gearing. Although, I have read from many that the factory 4.10's are more than enough. If you are really flexing it out with 35's, you will either need a lift or bump stops, but they can wait.

Also, it's typically cheaper and easier to just have lockers already than it is to add them after the fact.

I have heard a lot of people make a big deal out of the aluminum knuckles, but haven't seen any major issues caused directly by this, including many people running 37's on factory D44's.

 

[Rubi SoHo]

You’re looking at a Rubicon, or (I think) Willys XR if you want Dana44 front and rear. Personally I’d go Rubicon for the better T-case etc. XR package is a hell of an upgrade for the money. No brainer in my opinion.

 

[AcesandEights]

JLUR, Rubicon, manual, 4.88 gearing, probably less than $43k and will handle 37" - 39" tires. Why pay for the XR when you can get better off road tires aftermarket.

My JLR, similarly equipped, is $39.8k

 

[Whsky]

I would probably do a Rubicon without the XR package if price is the determining factor for going to a willy's. With that, you get everything you would want to run 35's on the street except for gearing. Although, I have read from many that the factory 4.10's are more than enough. If you are really flexing it out with 35's, you will either need a lift or bump stops, but they can wait.

Also, it's typically cheaper and easier to just have lockers already than it is to add them after the fact.

I have heard a lot of people make a big deal out of the aluminum knuckles, but haven't seen any major issues caused directly by this, including many people running 37's on factory D44's.

Thanks! I do plan on doing a fair bit of wheeling with it, but it’s really looking like the Willy’s XR package may just not be the right fit for me.

It also seems easier to truss the front axle and swap the knuckles then to try and do lockers, plus it would make the front axle way stronger than what comes with XR.

I’m also heavily considering the manual with 4.88s, but I need to test drive my friends manual JT to know if I like Jeep’s manual.

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