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Hellwig sway bar and offroad... Disappointing.

oceanblue2019

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It's definitely worth noting that the Antirocks are purposely designed to work best when both the fronts and rears are paired together. I have their JL specific .770" bars front and rear, and I've only noticed a marginal increase in body roll when flinging it through curves and corners. I didn't go with the optional JK specific .880 bars because all of the weight that I've added to my Jeep is at and below the frame rails.

This change was one of my most researched, because it's also my daily driver and I am specifically not wanting to cross the thin line of ending up with a jeep that is a big compromise on road. Most of the on road complaints that I dug up were centered around previous generation Jeeps, which have their rear shocks mounted inboard of the frame vs outboard like our JL's. Most of the JL complaints seemed to stem from only having a front or a rear setup. A stiffer and connected factory front will cause the rear Antirock to give sooner and more so, because the balance is off.
Anti-sway bars are about being able to transfer enough of the inertia energy that causes the sway to the inboard wheel to artificially reduce the spring rate to level out the vehicle; which reduces/eliminates sway. In essence the vehicle will squat to reduce the sway.

The higher the center of gravity and the weight of the vehicle the tougher this becomes to do. And the more you succeed the worse articulation becomes off road And even harshness on rough pavement.

You can not have both — which is why the Rubi has the disco from the factory to get you a way to have both.

The anti-rocks are thinner and longer lever arms then the factory bars. Most guys run them as they look cool and deny the Jeep drives like shit on the road at speed after install because…..they look cool…..

I have no idea why someone would remove a Rubi front for an Antirock as it’s step backwards.
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Headbarcode

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Anti-sway bars are about being able to transfer enough of the inertia energy that causes the sway to the inboard wheel to artificially reduce the spring rate to level out the vehicle; which reduces/eliminates sway. In essence the vehicle will squat to reduce the sway.

The higher the center of gravity and the weight of the vehicle the tougher this becomes to do. And the more you succeed the worse articulation becomes off road And even harshness on rough pavement.

You can not have both — which is why the Rubi has the disco from the factory to get you a way to have both.

The anti-rocks are thinner and longer lever arms then the factory bars. Most guys run them as they look cool and deny the Jeep drives like shit on the road at speed after install because…..they look cool…..

I have no idea why someone would remove a Rubi front for an Antirock as it’s step backwards.
Actually, I found the on road ride and handling better with the front and rear Antirocks. The tad bit more roll in the curves and corners, when driving more sporty, is far out weighed by the reduced head toss when one side hits a dip or bump. That was a pleasant surprise. What drove me towards them was that my factory rear bar was hitting the frame rails, robbing me of an inch or so of uptravel. I previously had the Rock Krawler No Limits front links on the factory edisconnect assembly, but even with them fully extended they weren't long enough. A happy byproduct from the swap was being able to lose the weight of the edisconnect motor and front bumper skid plate, which offset the added winch weight. So my front end gain capability without the usual weight penalty.

Driving in the snow the other day, an idiot in a pickup wanted to be first on a road that his lane was ending and merging to mine. I'd rather have a lunatic in front of me than riding my ass, so I braked to let him have it. He thanked me by veering towards me. Not wanting to lay a 40" rubber stripe down the side of his bed, I rolled the left tires onto the median. Being covered in snow, I had no idea there was a decent sized curb around that median. Hit it head on at 40ish mph and the Jeep barely noticed it. I unintentionally confirmed a litebrite video footage of Kevin driving across parking lot islands after installing the front Antirock to match the rear he already had.

Point of all that babble is that the Antirocks have proven to me that they are more than just good looking. And I'm not one for kidding myself, or leading fellow forum members astray.
 
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Bombout800

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Actually, I found the on road ride and handling better with the front and rear Antirocks. The tad bit more roll in the curves and corners, when driving more sporty, is far out weighed by the reduced head toss when one side hits a dip or bump. That was a pleasant surprise. What drove me towards them was that my factory rear bar was hitting the frame rails, robbing me of an inch or so of uptravel. I previously had the Rock Krawler No Limits front links on the factory edisconnect assembly, but even with them fully extended they weren't long enough. A happy byproduct from the swap was being able to lose the weight of the edisconnect motor and front bumper skid plate, which offset the added winch weight. So my front end gain capability without the usual weight penalty.

Driving in the snow the other day, an idiot in a pickup wanted to be first on a road that his lane was ending and merging to mine. I'd rather have a lunatic in front of me than riding my ass, so I braked to let him have it. He thanked me by veering towards me. Not wanting to lay a 40" rubber stripe down the side of his bed, I rolled the left tires onto the median. Being covered in snow, I had no idea there was a decent sized curb around that median. Hit it head on at 40ish mph and the Jeep barely noticed it. I unintentionally confirmed a litebrite video footage of Kevin driving across parking lot islands after installing the front Antirock to match the rear he already had.

Point of all that babble is that the Antirocks have proven to me that they are more than just good looking. And I'm not one for kidding myself, or leading fellow forum members astray.
The head toss was my biggest concern. Any time you hit a bump or dip with one side, you get thrown around. It drives me crazy ?. That's why I went with the stiffer bar. If I knew I could go front and rear anti rock and that be +\- a little from the hellwig with all the other capabilities, I'd be in. But I honestly need to ride in one with that setup. I'm curious how much different the. 880 bars would be. Better or worse. Thanks for your insight
 

Headbarcode

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The head toss was my biggest concern. Any time you hit a bump or dip with one side, you get thrown around. It drives me crazy ?. That's why I went with the stiffer bar. If I knew I could go front and rear anti rock and that be +\- a little from the hellwig with all the other capabilities, I'd be in. But I honestly need to ride in one with that setup. I'm curious how much different the. 880 bars would be. Better or worse. Thanks for your insight
This may answer a few questions. It's the video that I previously mentioned...

 

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Bombout800

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:CWL: ……… ok…….
Maybe we can work something out, with shipping, for you to get mine and test it.
 

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Maybe we can work something out, with shipping, for you to get mine and test it.
Thanks, but I think the handwriting is on the wall with this and articulation, lol…. I’m still looking for the perfect storm…….
 
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Bombout800

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I took it off yesterday and honestly, I don't miss it. Just wanted to see if you wanted to give it a shot.
 

Roky

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I took it off yesterday and honestly, I don't miss it. Just wanted to see if you wanted to give it a shot.
Appreciate it, but everyone I talk to has the same opinion, that it reduces articulation, and I like crawling over shit without spilling my coffee….. :)
 

Tank2112

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Actually, I found the on road ride and handling better with the front and rear Antirocks. The tad bit more roll in the curves and corners, when driving more sporty, is far out weighed by the reduced head toss when one side hits a dip or bump. That was a pleasant surprise. What drove me towards them was that my factory rear bar was hitting the frame rails, robbing me of an inch or so of uptravel. I previously had the Rock Krawler No Limits front links on the factory edisconnect assembly, but even with them fully extended they weren't long enough. A happy byproduct from the swap was being able to lose the weight of the edisconnect motor and front bumper skid plate, which offset the added winch weight. So my front end gain capability without the usual weight penalty.

Driving in the snow the other day, an idiot in a pickup wanted to be first on a road that his lane was ending and merging to mine. I'd rather have a lunatic in front of me than riding my ass, so I braked to let him have it. He thanked me by veering towards me. Not wanting to lay a 40" rubber stripe down the side of his bed, I rolled the left tires onto the median. Being covered in snow, I had no idea there was a decent sized curb around that median. Hit it head on at 40ish mph and the Jeep barely noticed it. I unintentionally confirmed a litebrite video footage of Kevin driving across parking lot islands after installing the front Antirock to match the rear he already had.

Point of all that babble is that the Antirocks have proven to me that they are more than just good looking. And I'm not one for kidding myself, or leading fellow forum members astray.
I had an AntiRock on both front & rear of my custom LJ, with 42" tires, coilover longarm.....
On-road sway was terrible. Torque from Hemi 6.1 would twist Jeep under hard acceleration. Cornering at higher speeds were bad. I swapped front AnitRock to a Terraflex S/T dual rate system, which helped a lot. When off-road, simple twist knob disengage main bar to only inner smaller bar, with much less resistance. Not sure why Terraflex doesn't make that for JL?

However SwayLoc offers a dual rate front swaybar system for JL or JT. If only someone would offer a similar dual rate design swaybar for the rear, where you could have Hellwig on-road performance and less resistance for when you need to flex.

swayloc
 

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Tank2112

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I understand that by stiffening rear sway bar you will add resistance to articulation.

1. Will a Hellwig rear sway bar really limit full articulation in a stock 392, before shocks fully extend, given the limited factory travel?

I've read how much a rear Hellwig will improve on-road stability; cornering and strong cross-winds.
However, one owner said after installing, it did negatively affected ride quality/softness as well. Said being stiffer in rear, you feel more from road imperfections and bumps?
2. I ask of mostly stock 392 owners that have Hellwig installed... is this your experience and if so, to what extent?
 

Argo392

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Looking at getting this sway bar on my 392. Recently did the AEV XP lift kit and don’t like the added body roll. (I will try and rear track bar bracket first as the AEV kit doesn’t send one for the 392 since it sits higher from factory.) I still think I will want the sway bar.

given I’ve got to 37’s and about 2.5-3inch lift will I loose a lot of off-road performance? I’ve seen some say it really hasn’t effected there off-road performance and some say it has.
 

CptFloridaMan

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I had an AntiRock on both front & rear of my custom LJ, with 42" tires, coilover longarm.....
On-road sway was terrible. Torque from Hemi 6.1 would twist Jeep under hard acceleration. Cornering at higher speeds were bad. I swapped front AnitRock to a Terraflex S/T dual rate system, which helped a lot. When off-road, simple twist knob disengage main bar to only inner smaller bar, with much less resistance. Not sure why Terraflex doesn't make that for JL?

However SwayLoc offers a dual rate front swaybar system for JL or JT. If only someone would offer a similar dual rate design swaybar for the rear, where you could have Hellwig on-road performance and less resistance for when you need to flex.

swayloc
I’m pretty sure swayloc made a dual rate for the JK for the rear as well as the front. I love my swayloc up front, whenever I’m off the highway I lock it up, and around town I unlock it(air actuated version)
 

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