Headlight high-beam splice point

[KC HiLiTES]

We want to extend a huge thank you to everyone who helped with product testing and provided valuable input on this wiring harness. Thanks to your support, it's now live on our website and available for purchase! We truly appreciate your contributions—our success wouldn’t be possible without this amazing community. Thank you all so much!

Link to the main post of the product release --- Link ---

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[zw470]

Ok, I bought one but someone's still gonna have to tell me how to wire the rest of it after I get it plugged in

 

[Compression-Ignition]

Ok, I bought one but someone's still gonna have to tell me how to wire the rest of it after I get it plugged in

Think of it as a switch that you are installing. But instead of an actual switch you're putting in the cab, you're just letting the factory switches control whichever aftermarket lights you connect the trigger to.

So in this particular setup below the blue switch would have it's place taken by whichever wire you choose out of the KC adapter.

HEADLIGHT FUNCTION ADAPTER HARNESS 2018+ JEEP WRANGLER JL & JT 59-00074IM
^^^Install instructions

 

[KC HiLiTES]

Ok, I bought one but someone's still gonna have to tell me how to wire the rest of it after I get it plugged in

We’re always here to help! @Compression-Ignition explained its use perfectly. When you’re ready, we’ll be happy to guide you through the installation process. It will be a simple wire splice of the load wire coming from the relay(Green wire) to the function wire in the new harness you’d like to trigger the lights.

Feel free to give us a call at 1-888-689-5955 when you’re ready to get started!

 

[roaniecowpony]

I'm a big fan of using the high beam signal to trigger relays for auxillary lights. I've had this circuit architecture on my pickup for 10 years.

What I would add to the conversation is:
1) you can add a dash switch between the high beam signal and the relay which allow you two things:
a) you can use your high beams without the auxillary lights
b) you can trigger mulitple relays so you have multiple groups of lights which you can control separately with separate switches on the high beam signal (roof lights, fog lights, cowl lights, etc) all of which can be quickly extinguished with one movement to dim the headlights.

 

[bobholthaus]

I'm a big fan of using the high beam signal to trigger relays for auxillary lights. I've had this circuit architecture on my pickup for 10 years.

What I would add to the conversation is:
1) you can add a dash switch between the high beam signal and the relay which allow you two things:
a) you can use your high beams without the auxillary lights
b) you can trigger mulitple relays so you have multiple groups of lights which you can control separately with separate switches on the high beam signal (roof lights, fog lights, cowl lights, etc) all of which can be quickly extinguished with one movement to dim the headlights.

I think I can answer that for them:

yes and yes.

and, although expensive, you can use a SwitchPros system and use the KC high beam lead as a “trigger” (one of two available) and then you can selectively choose whichever switch you want to come on with your high beams. And you can toggle that off, or control it from an app too. I have three of these systems in three different vehicles and love them (my second trigger I am using for my reverse lights).

Switches can be controlled individually, or they can be toggle with your highbeams. It’s the best of both worlds and it’s all solid state with no added relays. Check it out.

 

[Robellion]

Hi all- Thank you to everyone who participated in this thread! Very helpful.
Quick question: Number 85 on my relay, which is "ground"- should I connect that black wire from the relay to the frame or similar? or do I terminate it? I am doing a simple set up with the KC harness to the relay and then to one set of cowl lights powered through the factory AUX 3 switch.
I know I would be splicing the AUX 3 switch powered wire under the hood to the relay, then on to the lights, and the blue wire from the KC harness to the relay- just a little confused about the "85" or "ground."
I know the factory switch bank has fuses, so I believe I am good there.
Thanks!

 

[bobholthaus]

Hi all- Thank you to everyone who participated in this thread! Very helpful.
Quick question: Number 85 on my relay, which is "ground"- should I connect that black wire from the relay to the frame or similar? or do I terminate it? I am doing a simple set up with the KC harness to the relay and then to one set of cowl lights powered through the factory AUX 3 switch.
I know I would be splicing the AUX 3 switch powered wire under the hood to the relay, then on to the lights, and the blue wire from the KC harness to the relay- just a little confused about the "85" or "ground."
I know the factory switch bank has fuses, so I believe I am good there.
Thanks!

Here is what I have on relay numbers:

85: 12v low current positive input - this is your “trigger” input and can be in milliamps
86: ground
(Question I legitimately have: are these two interchangeable?)

30: 12v “high current” positive input (this is typically a fused input - but not in your example)
87a: power flows through this when relay is off (on a 5 pin relay)
87: on a 4 pin relay, this is your "output" pin (to lights) - also, power switches from 87a to this when relay is energized (with voltage to 85)

So, to clarify, the Aux 3 is going to 30, and the lead from your KC harness is going to 85/86? And to answer your question, yes, the 85/86 HAS to be grounded (to chassis or to negative on battery if you can get it there) for the relay to function (it has a moving part in it).

For my numbering, I'd have your Aux 3 going to 30, your KC trigger wire to 85, and I would ground 86. 87 goes to the cowl lights. Make sense?

And, your lights will only go on when both Aux 3 is turned on AND the lights are triggered (by your high beams).

if your to be able to manually turn them on, wire Aux 4 to 85 (and add a diode to both wires going to 30 and 85), and when you turn on both Auc 3 and Aux 4, the lights will be on manually.

 

[THAW]

85: low voltage positive "trigger" input (can be in milliamps)
....
30: high voltage positive input

Minor point of clarificaiton:
I think you mean high/low current inputs (both should be 12 Volts).

(Question I legitimately have: are these two interchangeable?)

Yes, generally the 85/86 contacts are interchangeable (though some relays have diodes, meaning current can only flow in one direction)

 

[bobholthaus]

Ah yes, thanks for the correction. 12v is assumed, but I’ll fix this. That “high voltage” terminology is misleading.

And thank you for the 85/86 clarification as well!

 

[Robellion]

Thanks guys- understood. Sorry if I am being dense..I see that the KC harness has a black "ground" wire also- terminate or tie into frame/battery?

 

[bobholthaus]

Thanks guys- understood. Sorry if I am being dense..I see that the KC harness has a black "ground" wire also- terminate or tie into frame/battery?

There should be no reason the KC harness has a ground wire. You may check that one to see if it’s another trigger. Didn’t they have one for running lights, one for high beam, etc? In general, they wouldn’t need to have a ground wire unless they’re just being generous and giving you a ground wire that’s already grounded. You wouldn’t need to ground that one but you could use it for your relay ground if needed (if in fact it’s a ground wire and not just a black wire).

 

[Robellion]

Maybe the new production harness I have is slightly different than the prototype. Here is a pic of the instructions:

 

[bobholthaus]

Maybe the new production harness I have is slightly different than the prototype. Here is a pic of the instructions:

Oh no that was nice of them. It’s a legit ground if they stated it. Run with it!! One less place to find something to ground to.!

 

[KC HiLiTES]

@Robellion sorry for the delay, The ground wire in this harness is intended for those creating a custom wire harness who prefer to use it as a ground connection instead of routing to the battery or body. If you are using a pre-made wiring harness, this ground wire is unnecessary, and you may choose to terminate it if desired

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