Front Locker Coil Replacement with Bronco Locker

[roaniecowpony]

My front Rubicon D44 M210 locker actuator quit working about 2 years ago. I immediately found out that Jeep didn't sell the locker actuator or even the whole differential carrier with the locker assembly. I had to find a fix.

Yes, you can put in ARB or Eaton or OX lockers. Those locker differential carriers are expensive on their own at $1100 to $1500 depending on which you choose. But that's not the whole nut. All three of those locker differentials require the installation of 35 spline (vs OEM 32 spline) axles which will run you another pile of $100 bills.

Since I had put in chromoly axles in my front and rear axles and preferred to keep them (with the FAD operational) I searched for a replacement locker actuator coil solution using the OEM differential. After much research and purchasing of various parts, I determined that the Bronco Raptor used a D44 Advantek platform axle. I then found out that the Bronco differential carrier was the identical subassembly part. From there, I found that the Bronco locker actuator coil was similar but lacked the mounting for the sensor that Jeeps use. Dana Aftermarket sold parts for the Bronco, but not the Jeep Rubicon lockers. So, I bought the Bronco locker actuator coil and related parts to see if they would work to replace my jeep parts. They do work, as this thread will show.

I finally found a window of opportunity to replace the front locker coil actuator in my JLUR. The weather in southern California has been hotter than a two dollar pistol. But it really broke down a lot today. So, I figured I'd jump on it, since I have aspirations of running Dusy this year. Anyone? Dusy?

So, it took this old man about 2 hours to get the jeep jacked, and pull the differential. Felt pretty good for me, with a bad back, neck, and arthritis all over.



Then, I spend the afternoon changing the Bronco connector over to a Jeep connector on the new (Bronco) coil actuator. The short version is that Jeep and Dana won't sell the differential parts for the JL Rubicon, so I'm using parts from the new Bronco that fit but use different electrical connectors and don't have the sensor at all. So, I'll use a Z-Automotive sensor fooler/jumper. Checked the assembled connector with a meter. It has the correct resistance for the coil.

Now, I have to pull the passenger side bearing from the diff, then replace the burned out coil, and actuator plate with the Bronco parts, new bearing and reassemble. Simple. Right?








Added for parts. This might be worthy of a pinned thread. So, to make this thread valuable to future owners of JLs with locker failures, I'll post the parts required.

Edit 12/6/24 Added Solenoid Spacer and Plate

1. Bronco Raptor Locker actuator coil Dana Spicer P/N 10102021 sourced from any Dana Spicer dealer
   1. Differential Solenoid Spacer, Dana Spicer P/N 10038787
   2. Differential Solenoid Plate, Dana Spicer P/N 10143206
2. JL style connector TE Connectivity/AMP brand P/N 1-2309436-1 sourced from OnlineComponents.com (min qty 25)
3. TE Connectivity pin/socket P/N 1670146-2 DigiKey is the wholesaler, but had to buy from ebay due to min quantity (still had to buy 100 pcs)
4. Mouser connector wire seal P/N 571-2138898-1 sourced from Mouser Electronics (min qty 100)
5. Z-Automotive Z-Locker-OEM Z Locker OEM – Z Automotive

You'll also need an electronics connector pin/socket crimper. If you have any questions, I'll be glad to help. The connector drawing is attached below.

BTW, the OEM JL actuator coil plugged into the sensor, which then plugged into the passthrough bulkhead connector on the housing. With this modification, you plug the actuator coil directly to the passthrough bulkhead connector.

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[3TV]

You always get to do the cool stuff. Sounds like an interesting project.

Dusy? When?

 

[roaniecowpony]

You always get to do the cool stuff. Sounds like an interesting project.

Dusy? When?

It always looks cooler when it's someone elses project.


Dusy.... soon. The window closes early with winter weather at 10,000 ft in October-November. I'm trying to get some interest up. Are you interested?

 

[Odyssey USA]

I finally found a window of opportunity to replace the front locker coil actuator in my JLUR. The weather in southern California has been hotter than a two dollar pistol. But it really broke down a lot today. So, I figured I'd jump on it, since I have aspirations of running Dusy this year. Anyone? Dusy?

So, it took this old man about 2 hours to get the jeep jacked, and pull the differential. Felt pretty good for me, with a bad back, neck, and arthritis all over.
View attachment 921070 View attachment 921071 View attachment 921072


Then, I spend the afternoon changing the Bronco connector over to a Jeep connector on the new (Bronco) coil actuator. The short version is that Jeep and Dana won't sell the differential parts for the JL Rubicon, so I'm using parts from the new Bronco that fit but use different electrical connectors and don't have the sensor at all. So, I'll use a Z-Automotive sensor fooler/jumper. Checked the assembled connector with a meter. It has the correct resistance for the coil.

Now, I have to pull the passenger side bearing from the diff, then replace the burned out coil, and actuator plate with the Bronco parts, new bearing and reassemble. Simple. Right?

View attachment 921076
View attachment 921079
View attachment 921080
View attachment 921081
View attachment 921082

Me pretending to understand….Uh huh. lol Electrical …smh

I hope I don’t run into that.

 

[3TV]

I've got the Rubicon damage repaired, and my exhaust isn't stuck in loud mode anymore. Work is super busy, but I'm interested.

 

[roaniecowpony]

Went to a friend's shop, which he recently moved, dug through a mountain of bearings in a crate to find one for my diff. Got it together and teste the locker.

Now, just have to reassemble. Easier said than done.

 

[roaniecowpony]

I installed the differential, had to shim a bit more due to the new bearing being a bit thinner (different brand bearing). It wasn't as bad as I had thought, to get the shims in. I trashed one .003" thick one.

But, in the end, after hooking up everything, including the Z-Automotive sensor fooler/eliminator, it all works fine.

 

[roaniecowpony]

So, I have a Wrangler that I put a Gladiator engine in this year, and now a Bronco locker.

 

[roaniecowpony]

In case you're wondering why I went to a Bronco locker actuator, it's because Jeep doesn't sell the parts for their lockers or diffs on the JL/JT. I didn't go to a ARB, Eaton or OX because all of them require 35 spline replacement axles. I already have chromoly axles I'd like to keep.

So, you'd be paying ~$1500 for an aftermarket locker/differential assembly, then another ~$1500 for axles.

 

[roaniecowpony]

This might be worthy of a pinned thread. So, to make this thread valuable to future owners of JLs with locker failures, I'll post the parts required.

Edit 12/6/24 Added Solenoid Spacer and Plate

1. Bronco Raptor Locker actuator coil Dana Spicer P/N 10102021 sourced from any Dana Spicer dealer
   1. Differential Solenoid Spacer, Dana Spicer P/N 10038787
   2. Differential Solenoid Plate, Dana Spicer P/N 10143206
2. JL style connector TE Connectivity/AMP brand P/N 1-2309436-1 sourced from OnlineComponents.com (min qty 25)
3. TE Connectivity pin/socket P/N 1670146-2 DigiKey is the wholesaler, but had to buy from ebay due to min quantity (still had to buy 100 pcs)
4. Mouser connector wire seal P/N 571-2138898-1 sourced from Mouser Electronics (min qty 100)
5. Z-Automotive Z-Locker-OEM Z Locker OEM – Z Automotive

You'll also need an electronics connector pin/socket crimper. If you have any questions, I'll be glad to help. The connector drawing is attached below.

BTW, the OEM JL actuator coil plugged into the sensor, which then plugged into the passthrough bulkhead connector on the housing. With this modification, you plug the actuator coil directly to the passthrough bulkhead connector.

 

[Terrymo]

Thanks for taking the time and all the extra work to document this.

 

[roaniecowpony]

So, I got a question regarding this mod. I thought I'd provide some more information here for all.

I was having the service locker light and I diagnosed it as the locker actuator coil. I was able to do this by first trying a Z-AUTOMOTIVE sensor bypass pigtail and it not solving the issue. Then I put 12v directly to my actuator coil. At first it worked, but then started getting intermittent. Eventually, it quit during testing with the cover off and jumpers providing power directly to the actuator coil.

I didn't provide links to all the parts, because the inflation changed a lot of the prices and now some of my sources are a poor choice. I would suggest google shopping the prices of the parts and then calling to see what the lead time is.

Also, I think I must not have been clear about the connector on the coil actuator. There is no "adapter". I cut the connector off the Bronco coil and put a jeep compatible connector on it. I have a number of them, because of the minimum order quantity. So, I'll be generous with sharing them for the first dozen or so members that are doing this. You'll need to be educated in the installation of electronic connectors to do it, and have a crimping tool for these style of pins.

 

[DesertWoods]

Thank You for all of this work! WOW, I was struggling to find a solution besides their recommendation to buy a new diff. I just ordered the parts off of your list!

 

[roaniecowpony]

If you need a connector and some pins, let me know. I have a lot of them.

 

[DesertWoods]

I would add for the record…it works!!!! A slight modification I did to this process was using a carrier bearing puller for Dana axles (loaned to me from a local shop). I very carefully removed the bearing and was able to reuse it. Took a lot more time but saved some money.

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