Front Locker Coil/Solenoid Actuator Dead - Sources?

[roaniecowpony]

I think I'm looking for a new coil/solenoid actuator for my front axle locker.

After getting it back from a shop that re-geared it, the front locker never worked. But I had not used the front locker since last summer. Yes, the sensor was full of oil. So I bought the Z Automotive sensor jumper and installed it, which did nothing. So, while the sensor may or may not have been bad, the Z Auto jumper should have worked, and that meant to me that something else was a problem.

In my diagnosing of my front locker, I've found that I have power to the pass-through bulkhead connector into the differential cavity, using the Z Automotive sensor jumper or without. I removed the internal harness from the pass-through connector and rotated the coil to gain a better look. I've cleaned the connectors with contact cleaner and compressed air several times and reconnected them in the open where I could see everything. There is power/ground right up to the connector wired on the coil/solenoid actuator. I wiggled wires and nothing. I checked with a steel tool to see if the coil is magnetized. Nothing.

In searching for a new coil/solenoid actuator, I've come up bupkis. Any help would be appreciated.

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[CaJLMetalHead]

can you measure the resistance on the terminal?.. I don't know the value of the resistance of the coil that actuates the locker.. but I could disconnect mine and measure it for reference.. you should be able to measure something at least.. probably a low value close to 0 Omhs.. if not.. then either the coil is bad.. or the wires going to the coil are broken

 

[roaniecowpony]

can you measure the resistance on the terminal?.. I don't know the value of the resistance of the coil that actuates the locker.. but I could disconnect mine and measure it for reference.. you should be able to measure something at least.. probably a low value close to 0 Omhs.. if not.. then either the coil is bad.. or the wires going to the coil are broken

I'll measure resistance today. I'll take you up on your generous offer to compare against mine if you have the time.

 

[CarbonSteel]

@roaniecowpony - part 69 and 70 are probably what you are looking for, but is it included in 67 which is part number 68400407AA?

 

[roaniecowpony]

@roaniecowpony - part 69 and 70 are probably what you are looking for, but is it included in 67 which is part number 68400407AA?

Yes. I likely need a new #70. The entire assembly 68400407AA is discontinued.

 

[GATORB8]

@chevymitchell

 

[CaJLMetalHead]

I'll measure resistance today. I'll take you up on your generous offer to compare against mine if you have the time.

Sure!.. I will measure the resistance today after work...

 

[chevymitchell]

Yes. I likely need a new #70. The entire assembly 68400407AA is discontinued.

You can apply 12vdc to the magnet and see if it pushes on the locker plate. That would be a simple check to do.

 

[roaniecowpony]

can you measure the resistance on the terminal?.. I don't know the value of the resistance of the coil that actuates the locker.. but I could disconnect mine and measure it for reference.. you should be able to measure something at least.. probably a low value close to 0 Omhs.. if not.. then either the coil is bad.. or the wires going to the coil are broken

The resistance values I'm getting, both through the passthrough connector and directly to the coil connector are zero (0), which, from what I've read, means there's a short. Values for electric motor windings should be in the 0.02 to 0.03 range. I set my meter and 4 places to the right. Still nothing. Still zero resistance (0.0000)

Since the pins on the connector are on opposite sides of the 4 pin flat (inline) connector, it would be hard to believe it's a short in the connector. So, it looks like it would be the winding.

 

[roaniecowpony]

You can apply 12vdc to the magnet and see if it pushes on the locker plate. That would be a simple check to do.

Shawn,
I measured 12v at the connector, while running the engine with it it 4LO, with the locker switch commanding front (and rear) locker. While it was hot, I connected the locker (internal case) connector to the power. Nada.

 

[chevymitchell]

Shawn,
I measured 12v at the connector, while running the engine with it it 4LO, with the locker switch commanding front (and rear) locker. While it was hot, I connected the locker (internal case) connector to the power. Nada.

If you use a power supply, you can eliminate the Jeep wiring completely. The issue may be on the ground side. Did you measure from the magnet ground wire to the chassis or negative on the battery?

 

[chevymitchell]

The resistance values I'm getting, both through the passthrough connector and directly to the coil connector are zero (0), which, from what I've read, means there's a short. Values for electric motor windings should be in the 0.02 to 0.03 range. I set my meter and 4 places to the right. Still nothing. Still zero resistance (0.0000)

Since the pins on the connector are on opposite sides of the 4 pin flat (inline) connector, it would be hard to believe it's a short in the connector. So, it looks like it would be the winding.

It would appear the coil is bad then.

 

[CaJLMetalHead]

The resistance values I'm getting, both through the passthrough connector and directly to the coil connector are zero (0), which, from what I've read, means there's a short. Values for electric motor windings should be in the 0.02 to 0.03 range. I set my meter and 4 places to the right. Still nothing. Still zero resistance (0.0000)

Since the pins on the connector are on opposite sides of the 4 pin flat (inline) connector, it would be hard to believe it's a short in the connector. So, it looks like it would be the winding.

uhmm ok... well... depending on the quality of your multimeter sometimes is hard to differentiate between a real short and a good coil.. LOL... as the values of both are close to Zero...

I suggest you bypass the whole computer-controlled Locker power / sensor thing and bring 12 volts directly from the battery.. and also while you are at it measure current... I did test both front and rear locker power consumption and it is really low... around 3 to 4 Amps... now.. if the coil is in a short circuit condition you should see sparks when you connect the locker to the battery LOL... if not.. then you should get about 4 amps current consumption and you should be able to hear the locker click noise (I noticed the clicking sound on my front locker is a lot fainter than the rear one)

 

[CaJLMetalHead]

As suggested by both ChevyMitchell and I... bypassing the computer-controlled power and using power directly from a 12 Volt source (motorcycle battery or power supply) is a better approach to test the locker... as I imagine the computer senses the locker for a short circuit condition.. and even if you find power on the wire coming from the computer, if the computer senses a short circuit it will stop supplying power to the locker... but you won't be able to test that condition unless you splice the wire and connect a voltmeter / current meter to determine what is happening

 

[roaniecowpony]

I'll t

uhmm ok... well... depending on the quality of your multimeter sometimes is hard to differentiate between a real short and a good coil.. LOL... as the values of both are close to Zero...

I suggest you bypass the whole computer-controlled Locker power / sensor thing and bring 12 volts directly from the battery.. and also while you are at it measure current... I did test both front and rear locker power consumption and it is really low... around 3 to 4 Amps... now.. if the coil is in a short circuit condition you should see sparks when you connect the locker to the battery LOL... if not.. then you should get about 4 amps current consumption and you should be able to hear the locker click noise (I noticed the clicking sound on my front locker is a lot fainter than the rear one)

Yeah, I get the quality of the meter thing. My meter is an inexpensive digital, not a Fluke. So, I'll try jumping with some leads off a battery.

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