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Firewall wiring: driver vs. passenger side?

FreedomFur

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I ran the wiring for my Voswitch through the firewall plug on the driver’s side. Just pulled the plug out, drilled a hole, ran the cable through, and then sealed it with some putty.
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nU7OuxIx

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On this topic, any advice on how to make the driver's side pass-through as robust as possible? Should I put a rubber diaphragm or boot in the blank plastic cap and run the cable through this, or just run the cable through the plastic cap along with some RTV?
I personally just popped the plastic plug out and drilled a hole through it to run the antenna cable through, then RTV'ed it .

If it was a power cable, I would probably put a rubber grommet around it just for additional protection. I would guess it would be OK to just put RTV around it but for power, I would want a little more cushion around it.
 

Jeepmarkjl

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Couldn’t you route under passenger cowl, temporarily drop windshield (have friend hold it so you don’t have to pull wipers off) run wire into passenger side under trim then down to floor trim and then back?

this is how sPod reccos running into jeep. They have an install video I think. Couldn’t the same method be done on passenger side?
 

jgo138

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I ran into this same problem when planning and installing the ARB twin compressor under the passenger seat. I have a few wires running through the driver side grommet, but the compressor really needed the cabling to stay on that side due to it's length. The instructions for the Innovative AT Products kit has a step about drilling a hole in the passenger footwell right above the carpet. Check out step 3-I on page 10 in their install manual. The insulation is a mess behind it, but I was able to drill a hole and fish the cable through without having to remove the fender liner. I used this video to help, and you can see what it takes to drill through the firewall. If I had to do it again, I'd use some kind of drill bit guide to avoid getting all of the insulation caught up in the drill bit. Hope this helps if you are thinking about going this route. You can do it!
 
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Alan_Hepburn

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So, if one is going to run a power line through the firewall is it a good idea to also run a ground line, or is it acceptable to just connect a ground to a convenient ground terminal inside the cabin?
 

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not sure why the fear on the passenger side grommet. i have a 6 spd. followed the dual battery install guide to remove both batteries, and fuse box. I was able to cut the nipple off and ran the wires thru it for my ARB compressor. just make sure you hook the battery cables back up right. (dont ask)
 
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slim_pickens

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not sure why the fear on the passenger side grommet. i have a 6 spd. followed the dual battery install guide to remove both batteries, and fuse box. I was able to cut the nipple off and ran the wires thru it for my ARB compressor. just make sure you hook the battery cables back up right. (dont ask)
Why should you hook the battery cables back up right? ;)
 

LanceMagnum

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So I've run large conductors through both and to do it right will be significant work either way.

I have a battery system in the cubby and the main feed to the dc-dc converter goes from the battery location, across the firewall, through the grommet on the drivers side, and then along the rocker panels underneath the trim pieces (and in fact I run them through the cable conduits underneath those trim panels).

I also have a feed from the battery pack in the cubby that runs back up the passenger side and through the 'upfitter' provision (rubber pass-through) to an SPOD in the engine bay.

- Dealing with the rubber 'upfitter' grommet is a pain and you have to be careful not to damage any other wires in the same area. Easiest way to access it is by removing the front right fender, but even with that it's difficult to work from the passenger footwell to get the wire(s) through. Some pulling lubricant was helpful. Bottom line this is the shortest route and ultimately in my opinion is the 'best' way. Grommet does a good job keeping any water out.

- Cleanest routing through the cabin is done by removing the 3 trim pieces on each side (front rocker, b pillar, rear rocker) and then opening up the existing conduits and running your new wires alongside the factory wires. Once you get past the rear rockers and up to the rear wheel wells there's a lot of space

- To get an install without having wires in the cargo area I go from the top of each wheel well and behind the inner fender liner, around the frame and into the cubby from underneath.

Here's a pic where I run large conductors through the top of the wheel well to feed an inverter:
Jeep Wrangler JL Firewall wiring: driver vs. passenger side? 1654187917768


And here's what the cable glands look like from the inside of the cubby (left side):
Jeep Wrangler JL Firewall wiring: driver vs. passenger side? 1654188040379
 
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slim_pickens

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So I've run large conductors through both and to do it right will be significant work either way.

I have a battery system in the cubby and the main feed to the dc-dc converter goes from the battery location, across the firewall, through the grommet on the drivers side, and then along the rocker panels underneath the trim pieces (and in fact I run them through the cable conduits underneath those trim panels).

I also have a feed from the battery pack in the cubby that runs back up the passenger side and through the 'upfitter' provision (rubber pass-through) to an SPOD in the engine bay.

- Dealing with the rubber 'upfitter' grommet is a pain and you have to be careful not to damage any other wires in the same area. Easiest way to access it is by removing the front right fender, but even with that it's difficult to work from the passenger footwell to get the wire(s) through. Some pulling lubricant was helpful. Bottom line this is the shortest route and ultimately in my opinion is the 'best' way. Grommet does a good job keeping any water out.

- Cleanest routing through the cabin is done by removing the 3 trim pieces on each side (front rocker, b pillar, rear rocker) and then opening up the existing conduits and running your new wires alongside the factory wires. Once you get past the rear rockers and up to the rear wheel wells there's a lot of space

- To get an install without having wires in the cargo area I go from the top of each wheel well and behind the inner fender liner, around the frame and into the cubby from underneath.

Here's a pic where I run large conductors through the top of the wheel well to feed an inverter:
1654187917768.png


And here's what the cable glands look like from the inside of the cubby (left side):
1654188040379.png
Thanks for this. Very similar to my project so I am impressed with your approach of routing the cables in the fender well so they don't come across on top of the cubby.

I am going to be installing American Adventure Labs' M.A.S.S. platform on top of the rear floor once I'm done with this auxiliary battery install. My impression is that this platform will be elevated a bit above where the OEM floor & hook strips used to be, so my inclination was just to come into the cubby from above. But would you twist my arm into trying this more discrete route? Not sure what kind of cable gland I would need for the cubby or whether there are any other tricks here that I would need to worry about (e.g. rear fender liner finagling, etc.). Thanks!

To add: I am also using AAL's remote bracket that mounts above the rear driver's side wheel well to include things like remote compressor access, a fuse box, and the like. This probably makes it even more complex to hide all of this and run lines between the cubby and that bracket behind the fender liner & out of sight.
 
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Some Random Guy

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Couldn’t you route under passenger cowl, temporarily drop windshield (have friend hold it so you don’t have to pull wipers off) run wire into passenger side under trim then down to floor trim and then back?

this is how sPod reccos running into jeep. They have an install video I think. Couldn’t the same method be done on passenger side?
I do this for small cables like an antenna or signal wires from my switches, but would not run power. It is too big, and has the potential to cause noise through induction to the tweeter.
 

LanceMagnum

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But would you twist my arm into trying this more discrete route?
Not arm twisting worthy, sounds like it won't add much to your installation - with your platform in the back a lot of the wires will be concealed for the most part anyway.

I have a storage system I built in the back of mine with some 80/20 extrusions but it comes out in the winter and so my motivation was keeping the cargo area uncluttered so my wife doesn't have to deal with avoiding putting stuff 'on the wires'.

Just let me know if you have any questions, looks like very similar build concepts!

Jeep Wrangler JL Firewall wiring: driver vs. passenger side? 1654216400168


Jeep Wrangler JL Firewall wiring: driver vs. passenger side? 1654216470065

Jeep Wrangler JL Firewall wiring: driver vs. passenger side? 1654216509508
 

superdude

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I've haphazardly put three conductors through the firewall, and have definitely caused damage to airbag/climate control/seatbelt wiring. I am prepping myself using that Genesis video to go into the wire nest, and repair any severed wires. Wish me luck!
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