Not sure how strict the inspection would be about the jack support board.
I think the towns got together to make a puzzle, they all have a different requirement for the jack support board:
Dennis: Jack board no less than 12 x 12 x 5/8’’
National Seashore: Jack Support Board: Wood: 10" x 12" x...
I've got the frontrunner and it's very solid and I believe can handle at least as much as any other. It does require drilling the hardtop and installation of brackets to the roll bar. I'm very happy with it.
You can add Nauset to your list: https://www.town.orleans.ma.us/583/Over-Sand-Vehicles
There's a small area in Dennis: https://www.town.dennis.ma.us/290/Off-Road-Vehicle-ORV
15psi should be good for the beach
Race Point, Sandy Neck, and Nauset have air stations but are not always open year...
I'm running a 'no metal' setup with a soft shackle - you have to cut and re-splice the end if you want to get rid of the thimble.
You can search for "Dyneema Eye Splice Demonstration" and "Dyneema Lock Stitch Demonstration" for some videos on how to do it.
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There's VHB tape holding the 4 cells together, then the two battery straps into some tie-down brackets bolted into the storage cubby floor. There's also the buss bars tying all the terminals together, as well as the fact there the batteries are against the side of the cubby on one side and...
DIY using 80/20 with drawer fridge
tilts up to access storage area where house battery resides
can remove 6 tie-down bolts (same ones used for cargo tie-downs) and store unit in off season if needed
Frontrunner rack, iKamper mini, Eezi-awn 270 - everything is a compromise of course but very happy with everything. The rack is very sturdy, Skycamp mini is cozy for 2 but leaves room on the rack for other equipment. Awning is great for it's modest weight and self-supporting in no wind, only...
I had the same thought/concern when building a rear storage unit (using 80/20). In some places I tried to arrange the beams by fastening a couple together (rather than a single longer beam) so there's a chance they would crumple, and also notched some of them to create a weak point. Obviously no...
Here's the rough order as I built my kit over time:
tire repair kit, added some Colby emergency valve stems
Also had a cheap tree-saver at this point - I'd say the above equipment is a very good start
Then nice to haves:
(debatable if this is a nice to have or a higher...
Removing fenders are not as bad as it sounds
No need to drill out and replace rivets, just some bolts and Christmas tree fasteners (inner and outer fenders pop off as one unit)
Only thing that can happen is if your white plastic clips are brittle you may break a couple but can be sourced easily
I can only be a little helpful here because I did this on a gasser. I'd say definitely remove the taillight, will give a much better view of what's going on. Be careful popping the retainers, be sure you have the pry tool in the right spots.
Difficult! One of the reasons the frontrunner rack has high capacity is due to the brackets that attach to the roll bar and pass through the roof (no weight on the roof itself)
I have the frontrunner rack and there is enough room so the roof panels are removable, albeit with a little care - there's not *alot* of room
Despite the drilling needed I love the frontrunner rack, I have no concerns for the things I carry.
I agree that to run a coffee maker or grill you should go with 1500 to 2000 watts.
I did this exact project a couple years ago and I found the key was an inverter that has an all solid state output stage, kept the unit a manageable size. At the time my choice was a Samlex 2000 watt, about $340...