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Finally overheated

Willys41

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I cut out my vents and removed the insulation altogether. Works great as you said to help vent heat when stopped, crawling or most importantly when the engine is hot and you turn it off to prevent heat soak.

But more importantly, the Tazer is the easiest solution and most I would think have them by now already. It works for all variants of the JL and with a two button press you can instantly cool the engine or precool it even if you know there is a steep grade ahead. All you have to do is monitor the temps and force cooldown. I use it all the time in AZ summer and even today I used it off road crawling.

IMG_4991.jpg
I can see where hood vent may help vent heat and the tazer fan control is is a great feature however with the RPM fan controller is an install and forget it.
I have the first version of the fan controller in my Willys and the fan idles at 15% fan speed all the time keeping air moving all the time and prefer it for slow crawling.
My wife's Rubicon has the second version and the fan starts at 195 and off at 190 and this is fine for her mall crawler.
Both version have a full fan speed option however I have never had to use it.
As of now my temps have never hit the 218 temp turning the fan to full speed.
With the RPM fan controller the highest I have seen is 212 coolant temp.
Jon at RPM Extreme can set the fan to what ever temps you want.
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UncleJimmy

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I can see where hood vent may help vent heat and the tazer fan control is is a great feature however with the RPM fan controller is an install and forget it.
I have the first version of the fan controller in my Willys and the fan idles at 15% fan speed all the time keeping air moving all the time and prefer it for slow crawling.
My wife's Rubicon has the second version and the fan starts at 195 and off at 190 and this is fine for her mall crawler.
Both version have a full fan speed option however I have never had to use it.
As of now my temps have never hit the 218 temp turning the fan to full speed.
With the RPM fan controller the highest I have seen is 212 coolant temp.
Jon at RPM Extreme can set the fan to what ever temps you want.

Yes RPM sounds great and I recommended it on the first page of this thread. Unfortunately doesn't help those with 3.0.
 

zouch

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except when they didn't.

i think we've determined that if you have the Trail Cam you got the JT grille inserts, but otherwise you got the standard grille inserts (as mine did).
we've also seen it reported that changing them made no difference, and that people who had even taken the grille out completely have reported no difference.

bottom line issue seems to be that there's not enough airflow through the cooling stack. since using a fan to force air through the stack seems to work (tested on non-EcoDiesels), my feeling is that there's so much stuff stuff into an EcoDiesel engine compartment there simply isn't enough of a way for air to naturally exit from the engine compartment.


The diesel came from the factory with the JT grill inserts.
 

Willys41

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except when they didn't.

i think we've determined that if you have the Trail Cam you got the JT grille inserts, but otherwise you got the standard grille inserts (as mine did).
we've also seen it reported that changing them made no difference, and that people who had even taken the grille out completely have reported no difference.

bottom line issue seems to be that there's not enough airflow through the cooling stack. since using a fan to force air through the stack seems to work (tested on non-EcoDiesels), my feeling is that there's so much stuff stuff into an EcoDiesel engine compartment there simply isn't enough of a way for air to naturally exit from the engine compartment.
I can not speak for the EcoDiesel only gas powered put I think the results would be the same with better fan control.
With all my testing I found that the engine compartment is not the problem.
The cooling system is more than adequate in keeping the engine cool with one exception. Fan control. Fan timing. To little to late.
Jeep has thrown several fixes at the cooling system witch never addressed the real problem.
Larger grill inserts, larger fan motors and blades 600 watt, 850 watt and 940 watt.
To test this on a EcoDiesel is simple.
On a hot day turn your A/C full blast. This will run your radiator fan at a high rate of speed and you may see reduced coolant temps.
If you do see lower temps than you know that better fan control is the solution.
 

mgroeger

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except when they didn't.

i think we've determined that if you have the Trail Cam you got the JT grille inserts, but otherwise you got the standard grille inserts (as mine did).
we've also seen it reported that changing them made no difference, and that people who had even taken the grille out completely have reported no difference.

bottom line issue seems to be that there's not enough airflow through the cooling stack. since using a fan to force air through the stack seems to work (tested on non-EcoDiesels), my feeling is that there's so much stuff stuff into an EcoDiesel engine compartment there simply isn't enough of a way for air to naturally exit from the engine compartment.
Honestly it sounds like removing the fender liners is your best option to get air out. I used to run the factory fenders with the LED chop lights on the blue Jeep in my avatar. I never got around to buying inner fender liners and ran the Jeep that way with no problems other than my wife telling me it looked ghetto... lol. I personally liked the look as it was NOT anywhere near a mall crawler. That Jeep never came close to running too hot and it was often out on 100+ days on the rocks.
 

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zouch

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agreed that anything that gets more airflow through the cooling stack would be a Good Thing.
problem is, as repeatedly mentioned, we don’t seem to know of a Fan Controller that’s intended for the EcoDiesel.

FWIW, i’ve run loaded for extended hours at Western speeds in the mountains at 100°F+ ambient temps with Auto Climate Control engaged without derating (yet). i’ve not yet towed on the same circumstances.
i would still prefer better airflow and lower underhood temps.


I can not speak for the EcoDiesel only gas powered put I think the results would be the same with better fan control.
With all my testing I found that the engine compartment is not the problem.
The cooling system is more than adequate in keeping the engine cool with one exception. Fan control. Fan timing. To little to late.
Jeep has thrown several fixes at the cooling system witch never addressed the real problem.
Larger grill inserts, larger fan motors and blades 600 watt, 850 watt and 940 watt.
To test this on a EcoDiesel is simple.
On a hot day turn your A/C full blast. This will run your radiator fan at a high rate of speed and you may see reduced coolant temps.
If you do see lower temps than you know that better fan control is the solution.
 

Wrangler man

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Jeep has continually, thoroughly tested all of their Wrangler models before release. Traveling over thousands of miles of different terrain, extreme altitudes extreme climates both on road and off-road. The European EcoDiesel Wranglers received a functional hood scoop. Why on Earth would that be excluded from the US models. They obviously produced the European version that way for a reason which we are well aware of and they obviously were too. Top much heat. With added cost to do so why not just extend that to the US? The other big heat producer 392 received a functioning hood scoop in the US. Baffled, Why not the US EcoDiesel Wrangler? Any thoughts?
 

Willys41

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Jeep has continually, thoroughly tested all of their Wrangler models before release. Traveling over thousands of miles of different terrain, extreme altitudes extreme climates both on road and off-road. The European EcoDiesel Wranglers received a functional hood scoop. Why on Earth would that be excluded from the US models. They obviously produced the European version that way for a reason which we are well aware of and they obviously were too. Top much heat. With added cost to do so why not just extend that to the US? The other big heat producer 392 received a functioning hood scoop in the US. Baffled, Why not the US EcoDiesel Wrangler? Any thoughts?
Introducing more air into the engine may help a little put that dose not increase the air flowing though the radiator and that is what is needed.
Once you start putting heavy loads on the motor the cooling system is what keep the jeep or any other vehicle running cool.
 

ALeeL

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Only bad thing about adding a proper air dam to the Wrangler is that you will have to take it off when going off road. Probably the reason why Jeep never added one. Because it would alter it's approach angle's and it would get ripped off. The new Tacoma has a removable air dam that you can take off and put back on in a few minutes.

Jeep Wrangler JL Finally overheated 1736036450151-ws
 
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ALeeL

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I'm waiting for the version that doesn't impact approach angle.

I edited my post as you sent this. The new Tacoma has one that is meant to taken off when going off road.
 

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I edited my post as you sent this. The new Tacoma has one that is meant to taken off when going off road.
I'm pretty sure just about everyone on the Taco forum takes it off. At least they have that alternative though.
 

Willys41

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Only bad thing about adding a proper air dam to the Wrangler is that you will have to take it off when going off road. Probably the reason why Jeep never added one. Because it would alter it's approach angle's and it would get ripped off. The new Tacoma has a removable air dam that you can take off and put back on in a few minutes.

1736036450151-ws.jpg
In the case of the Jeep Wrangler with all my testing I don't be leave an air dam is going to make any difference and definitely no difference crawling on trails.
 

ALeeL

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I'm pretty sure just about everyone on the Taco forum takes it off. At least they have that alternative though.
Yeah, it would be nice to have a factory option available to put on for long trips to keep the engine cool and possibly a little fuel economy improvement, then take it off as needed.

I guess Jeep wants to keep true to their heritage of having the design being as off road capable as possible even it it means you have to sacrifice on road performance. Kind of like how they stuck with sold axles and body on frame when most others have moved away from that.
 

ALeeL

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In the case of the Jeep Wrangler with all my testing I don't be leave an air dam is going to make any difference and definitely no difference crawling on trails.
I just may install the plastic piece I have this spring to see if it changes my normal summer temps.

Also, an air dam should make zero difference on trails. That is not how they work. The work by air flow and the more air flow that goes over(or under) them, the more they create a negative pressure under the engine, and the more they pull air through the radiator or any other hole you above the dam in the engine bay. You would not be going fast enough for it to do anything when crawling.

Think of it as putting a giant vacuum under your engine bay that sucks more air the faster you go, and you only want the flow to go through your radiator so you try to plug every other opening to divert the suction there. If have another hole, like your hood vents being cut or open, then the air will pull through that instead of the radiator where you want it.
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