Finally overheated

[Ratbert]

I guess Jeep wants to keep true to their heritage of having the design being as off road capable as possible even it it means you have to sacrifice on road performance. Kind of like how they stuck with sold axles and body on frame when most others have moved away from that.

It's challenging to read into text like that, but what you're describing is "a good thing", right?

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[ALeeL]

It's challenging to read into text like that, but what you're describing is "a good thing", right?

Yes, it is a good thing, to me at least. I am glad that Jeep has stayed true to being an off roader that you can also go on road with versus making and on road vehicle that you can also take off road— if you know what I mean.

 

[Willys41]

I just may install the plastic piece I have this spring to see if it changes my normal summer temps.

Also, an air dam should make zero difference on trails. That is not how they work. The work by air flow and the more air flow that goes over(or under) them, the more they create a negative pressure under the engine, and the more they pull air through the radiator or any other hole you above the dam in the engine bay. You would not be going fast enough for it to do anything when crawling.

Think of it as putting a giant vacuum under your engine bay that sucks more air the faster you go, and you only want the flow to go through your radiator so you try to plug every other opening to divert the suction there. If have another hole, like your hood vents being cut or open, then the air will pull through that instead of the radiator where you want it.

Installing an air dam to create a negative pressure under the engine would have to be highly engineered and tested.

 

[zouch]

agreed; air flowing through the cooling stack helps remove heat from the coolant.
wouldn't hurt though, if that engine was operating in a cooler environment to start with! the less excess heat there is in the engine, the less you're trying to remove via the coolant (or oil).

have you seen the Intake Air Temps on the Diesel? i've seen them frequently as much as 70ºF above Ambient, even at low (non-highway) speeds and little-to-no load, because the air intake is in that hot air under the hood. having lower under-hood temps would allow the loss of more heat via radiation to the cooler air around it, as well as lower Intake Air Temps (which are a good thing on multiple accounts).

i'm still inclined to believe finding a way for air to get *out* of the engine compartment is a worthwhile pursuit; otherwise we're just talking about ways to try to push more air through a clogged path, much like trying to spit through a plugged-up straw.

Introducing more air into the engine may help a little put that dose not increase the air flowing though the radiator and that is what is needed.
Once you start putting heavy loads on the motor the cooling system is what keep the jeep or any other vehicle running cool.

 

[UncleJimmy]

In the case of the Jeep Wrangler with all my testing I don't be leave an air dam is going to make any difference and definitely no difference crawling on trails.

In the link you gave before regarding the Gladiator, Jeep said they tested the air dam and it didn’t do much.

 

[grimmjeeper]

The one thing the engineers couldn't do when stuffing the 3.0 into the wrangler was change anything about the shape of the nose. There is only so much room for the cooling stack in there. It can only handle so much heat. And bottom line is that the 3.0 under load puts out way more heat than the cooling stack can handle. A little ducting with an air dam is a bandaid on a sucking chest wound.

Nothing short of a completely different nose (or some kind of auxiliary cooling outside of the nose of the Jeep) will keep the 3.0 from overheating under load.

It's adequate for daily driving. But weigh down the Jeep with gear, put a trailer behind it, run up a sustained grade and you will push the Jeep past it's ability to keep the engine cool. Do it on a hot day and/or try to keep it at 75+ while you're doing it and it only gets worse.

The only way to keep the 3.0 cool under load is to have a radiator and grill the size of the one in the Ram 1500. And even then it could use a little more.

It's a great engine but it is like trying to put 15 pounds of stuff in a 5 pound bag.

They probably couldn't get the emissions to pass as easily (because they already had a lot of it with the 3.0 in the Ram and GC) but the 2.2 would have been a much better engine to put in the US spec wrangler.

 

[ALeeL]

In the link you gave before regarding the Gladiator, Jeep said they tested the air dam and it didn’t do much.

Can you please repost that link? I actually know a few R&D engineers at Jeep and would like to confirm with them before I do my own testing. Having worked for various engine and truck manufacturers over the past 20+ years, I know enough about this to get me in trouble, but always appreciate extra guidance.

 

[UncleJimmy]

Can you please repost that link? I actually know a few R&D engineers at Jeep and would like to confirm with them before I do my own testing. Having worked for various engine and truck manufacturers over the past 20+ years, I know enough about this to get me in trouble, but always appreciate extra guidance.

The Engineering Behind the Jeep Gladiator's Tow Rating, and Why the Diesel Will Tow Less

https://jalopnik.com/the-engineering-behind-the-jeep-gladiators-tow-rating-1833657453

 

[UncleJimmy]

The Engineering Behind the Jeep Gladiator's Tow Rating, and Why the Diesel Will Tow Less

https://jalopnik.com/the-engineering-behind-the-jeep-gladiators-tow-rating-1833657453

What I got out of this article is that there were constraints from design and safety of the engine bay. What they did apparently was optimize gearing to reduce load in engine. Fuel/energy = heat so reducing load reduced heat. So even though the 3.0 can take the load of big tires and towing, for optimized cooling the gearing needs to be optimized as well. And if that can’t be done then, as as has been said reduce the load by reducing speed.

Honestly, as anyone tried precooling with Tazer in the 3.0 as it works great for the 3.6.

Pulling air, vs pushing it seems to be the best way to cool engine temps with the Wrangler regardless of engine which is why lowering the threshold for fan max cool sooner helps.

 

[aerosynch]

I have used the Tazer’s “cool down” mode while going 80MPH when I see the oil temperature at 240 or higher and it does slowly start to bring it down a couple of degrees. The coolant temperature goes down even faster. Granted if I was going 75MPH or even 70MPH the oil temperature would be closer to 231 instead.

This is running 40s on UD60s and 4.88 gears. Highest I have seen since new has been 249 oil temperature but no derating as I slowed down and stopped to refuel when driving to California.

Still have the stock hood vents untouched and using a recessed winch bumper but like others have said these don’t seem to be big factors. I do wish the PSC cooler wasn’t located where it is but it didn’t seem to make a difference either.

 

[TOTL Innovations]

Jeep has continually, thoroughly tested all of their Wrangler models before release. Traveling over thousands of miles of different terrain, extreme altitudes extreme climates both on road and off-road. The European EcoDiesel Wranglers received a functional hood scoop. Why on Earth would that be excluded from the US models. They obviously produced the European version that way for a reason which we are well aware of and they obviously were too. Top much heat. With added cost to do so why not just extend that to the US? The other big heat producer 392 received a functioning hood scoop in the US. Baffled, Why not the US EcoDiesel Wrangler? Any thoughts?

I cant speak to why Jeep decided to exclude functional scoops from U.S. models but that is what the aftermarket is for right?

Our JL H.E.R.O. Hood provides functional cold air right to your factory air box and 2 sets of vents to expel heat at both slow and highway speeds.

We have also done testing to show how well the hood performs (albeit to @zouch skepticism hat tests were not performed at higher speeds)

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...ults-temperature-cooling-measurements.125807/

 

[zouch]

heh,.. figured we were likely to hear from you.
surprised it took you so long. been on holiday?

I cant speak to why Jeep decided to exclude functional scoops from U.S. models but that is what the aftermarket is for right?

Our JL H.E.R.O. Hood provides functional cold air right to your factory air box and 2 sets of vents to expel heat at both slow and highway speeds.

We have also done testing to show how well the hood performs (albeit to @zouch skepticism hat tests were not performed at higher speeds)

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...ults-temperature-cooling-measurements.125807/

 

[Plongson]

Just one more gadget/gizmo to buy. I'm almost betting if you ran one of these rigs with NO hood, it'd still run hot. And for a $1000.00 dollar gamble...after everything EVERYBODY has done...Not touching it...Unless Totl Innovations would buy it back in cash if the JLURD runs hotter than 20°f over the thermostat, pulling 3500lbs up grades in the Rockies at 95°f ambient at 60mph.

It ain't happening.

 

[cnapierala]

Just one more gadget/gizmo to buy. I'm almost betting if you ran one of these rigs with NO hood, it'd still run hot. And for a $1000.00 dollar gamble...after everything EVERYBODY has done...Not touching it...Unless Totl Innovations would buy it back in cash if the JLURD runs hotter than 20°f over the thermostat, pulling 3500lbs up grades in the Rockies at 95°f ambient at 60mph.

It ain't happening.

I tend to agree with your note although i do appreciate them investing the time, reasearch and money to develop an option. Im inclined to try the S&B scoup option for $200 first as i have heard that has lowered temps 10-15 degrees and IMO i like the look better and you can always swap back to stock easily if you change your mind.

 

[Willys41]

Just one more gadget/gizmo to buy. I'm almost betting if you ran one of these rigs with NO hood, it'd still run hot. And for a $1000.00 dollar gamble...after everything EVERYBODY has done...Not touching it...Unless Totl Innovations would buy it back in cash if the JLURD runs hotter than 20°f over the thermostat, pulling 3500lbs up grades in the Rockies at 95°f ambient at 60mph.

It ain't happening.

I agree
Air flowing though the radiator at the right time and the right amount is what keep an engine cool.
The Jeep Wrangler is not an air cooled motor.

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