it kinda makes sense. You can see temps climb while driving. Until the fan kicks on.I sure hope he has a good explanation that defies physics. That’s how it’s worked in every other car made prior to the JL.
After 6 months tiring different thing to keep the jeep running cooler this is what I found out.I sure hope he has a good explanation that defies physics. That’s how it’s worked in every other car made prior to the JL.
After 6 months tiring different thing to keep the jeep running cooler this is what I found out.
1. I tried the grill inserts. NO difference.
2. removed winch for better air flow. NO difference.
3. Installed the 940 watt fan motor. NO difference.
4. Installed high volume high pressure pusher fan on the A/C condenser.
With the pusher fan what was happening is the air would go through the condenser hit the radiator and bleed out all the opening between the condenser and radiator. Almost NO air would pass though the radiator.
5. Replace the radiator with a Mishimoto radiator hopping it would allow more air to pass though.
Still with the Mishimoto almost no air would pass though the radiator.
6. Closed all the gaps between the condenser and the radiator. STILL VERY LITTLE AIR WOULD PASS THROUGH THE RADIATOR WITH THE PUSHER FAN.
Conclusion. Today's radiators air build with tight fins and do not pass free flowing air like the older radiator. If you think driving your jeep down the road at 60mph you getting massive amounts of air flowing through your radiator YOU ARE NOT.
The jeep radiator will only work with air being sucked through it with a fan and it works well put the fan comes on to little to late.
7. Installed a RPM Extreme JL fan controller. Problem solved. NO more 235+ coolant temps or high oil temps. I have reduced the oil and coolant temps by 25+degrees.
THE END.
As far as physics.
Air will always find the path of least resistance. And its not through the JL radiator.
Exactly,These days most seem to do the opposite. Speed up on a grade, more so if there are curves.
3.6remind us; is yours an EcoDiesel?
i’m looking for anyone who has gotten the Fan Controller to work on an EcoDiesel like the OP has.
From my research and searching the aftermarket engineers have not had the opportunity to have a EcoDiesel platform in their possession to do the necessary testing. Therefore it is not available on the EcoDiesel at this time. I was told if they have the ability to have the EcoDiesel Wrangler in their shop for the necessary tests then and only then would they know if it's going to be doable so it could be made available. Currently only the 3.6 and the 2.0 I think they've started some research on the 392. They followed up saying if someone dropped off an Eco diesel they would definitely give it a tryremind us; is yours an EcoDiesel?
i’m looking for anyone who has gotten the Fan Controller to work on an EcoDiesel like the OP has.
3.6
Jon at RPM extreme one day may have one for the EcoDiesel.
I think that someone brought there 2.0 and was able to make one.
I think what he needs is to have an EcoDiesel for testing.
From my research and searching the aftermarket engineers have not had the opportunity to have a EcoDiesel platform in their possession to do the necessary testing. Therefore it is not available on the EcoDiesel at this time. I was told if they have the ability to have the EcoDiesel Wrangler in their shop for the necessary tests then and only then would they know if it's going to be doable so it could be made available. Currently only the 3.6 and the 2.0 I think they've started some research on the 392. They followed up saying if someone dropped off an Eco diesel they would definitely give it a try
Air takes the path of least resistance. And if you sealed the area off between the condenser and radiator then where it the air going? Not back forward.After 6 months tiring different thing to keep the jeep running cooler this is what I found out.
1. I tried the grill inserts. NO difference.
2. removed winch for better air flow. NO difference.
3. Installed the 940 watt fan motor. NO difference.
4. Installed high volume high pressure pusher fan on the A/C condenser.
With the pusher fan what was happening is the air would go through the condenser hit the radiator and bleed out all the opening between the condenser and radiator. Almost NO air would pass though the radiator.
5. Replace the radiator with a Mishimoto radiator hopping it would allow more air to pass though.
Still with the Mishimoto almost no air would pass though the radiator.
6. Closed all the gaps between the condenser and the radiator. STILL VERY LITTLE AIR WOULD PASS THROUGH THE RADIATOR WITH THE PUSHER FAN.
Conclusion. Today's radiators air build with tight fins and do not pass free flowing air like the older radiator. If you think driving your jeep down the road at 60mph you getting massive amounts of air flowing through your radiator YOU ARE NOT.
The jeep radiator will only work with air being sucked through it with a fan and it works well put the fan comes on to little to late.
7. Installed a RPM Extreme JL fan controller. Problem solved. NO more 235+ coolant temps or high oil temps. I have reduced the oil and coolant temps by 25+degrees.
THE END.
As far as physics.
Air will always find the path of least resistance. And its not through the JL radiator.
Seems like you tried a lot of different things. Have you done anything in regards to creating a lower pressure in your engine bay to suck out all the hot air under your hood? I was thinking about doing this just to see if it would work. I already have a long thin strip of 2.5" plastic that I saved from another project that I can mount to bottom of the front bumper skid plate. Something I can take off when I go off road. I am curious to see if it would work, but never got around to it.After 6 months tiring different thing to keep the jeep running cooler this is what I found out.....
I could not close all the gaps and yes it would find any place to escape and would not go though the radiator core.Air takes the path of least resistance. And if you sealed the area off between the condenser and radiator then where it the air going? Not back forward.
I drove around with my head lights removed, hood not latched. No difference.Seems like you tried a lot of different things. Have you done anything in regards to creating a lower pressure in your engine bay to suck out all the hot air under your hood? I was thinking about doing this just to see if it would work. I already have a long thin strip of 2.5" plastic that I saved from another project that I can mount to bottom of the front bumper skid plate. Something I can take off when I go off road. I am curious to see if it would work, but never got around to it.
Grab yourself grill inserts from a JT or newer JL, they are significantly larger and allow more air flow. Cut your hood vents open to be real hood vents. Yes, I know air does not really get pushed out of them it simply helps a little while driving but a lot when sitting still. It keeps the engine from heat soaking. Get rid of that stupid engine cover, it's useless and only keeps more heat trapped in there. If you have the turbo and after market inner fender liners pop the driver's side fender liner out and it helps a lot. My wife was pulling a long uphill grade on I-15 in 100 degree temps with A/C on and these mods helped a lot. These are super cheap simple mods that can help the engine from getting so hot.Any details on the fan? I want to do what I can to keep mine cool as I plan to tow my camper.