Ess battery change

[Joeshek]

Main is an interstate mtx-94r/h7 and yes I have a volt meter..
Thanks for the help btw

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[Joeshek]

Here is the battery
And here is the voltmeter reading

 

[Joeshek]

Volt meter reading

 

[Joeshek]

And the genius charger on it

So what is the problem?

 

[jeepdabest]

Bad aux battery phlucked your main. Now your bad main will phluck your new aux. Ain't life grand?

 

[Joeshek]

So my main is bad then?
Wtf.....

 

[mwilk012]

It’s not fully charged.

 

[elf883]

12.6 and above is a full charge " HEALTHY" "resting" voltage battery

at least it says 36 month replacement lol

 

[mwilk012]

12.6 and above is a full charge " HEALTHY" "resting" voltage battery

at least it says 36 month replacement lol

Yea, except they’ll test it and it will pass.

 

[elf883]

Yea, except they’ll test it and it will pass.

yep correct
12.5 is healthy will show good
but it will also be required for you to check it in a few days to see if it holds that voltage. any change just resting and its junk . i had these issues with my 2 year old mopar junky battery from the dealer ,changed the battery have not had issues .

 

[Joeshek]

So what do you guys suggest.

Am I wasting my time trying to get it under warranty

 

[J0E]

Did you also replace the main? The general rule of thumb is to replace both when one or the other goes bad.

Or better yet, F42 remove, aux ground remove. Most folks disable ESS. You only need the aux battery if you're in LA commuting and stop every 30 seconds and do 50+ ESS cycles per commute.

Two batteries in parallel, the weak one is guaranteed to suck the good one to it's voltage. That's why when I build multi battery inverter systems, I always put the two batteries in series.

 

[Joeshek]

Or do I have other electronic issues.

 

[mwilk012]

Slow charge that battery. If it won’t rest at 12.7, it’s no good.

 

[Fudster]

Joe: While it is possible that other things may be causing your issues, we need to rule out it being the batteries, and to do so we need to independently load test each battery.

Load testers, unlike your multimeter,, which measure instantaneous voltage, measure a battery's ability to do that which it's designed to do: which is accept and delivery charge.

Ask the dealer to independently load test each battery. Once your batteries are either ruled out or not the issue, or hopefully at most, just the relatively new main battery needs to be replaced, either your problems will go away, or we can know that it isn't the batteries that lie at the crux of the problem.

I read talk above about Lithium batteries, presumably LiFePO4 ones, a.k.a. Lithium Iron Phosphate--not Lithium Ion as found in your cell phone. That said.....no, for either.

Use AGM or absorbed glass mat batteries only for both main and Aux. This is a type of Lead Acid battery that ESS systems tend to need. Besides, your LiFePO4 battery can't go below freezing barring its use of warming technology....it's just not for under the hood of a Wrangler..

~~~~~~~~

We can also talk about you running with just a main battery but it will involve your willingness to turn ESS off.

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