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Ecodiesel gearing

Mojave Dust

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What kind of extra parts did you need for 3.5"? Any steering components? I'm guessing don't driveshaft for sure.
The Metalcloak kit came with everything- got their driveshaft and shocks, but replaced the shocks with Fox from Accutune last year just to have a lot better ride on the desert trails. Other steering components did not need changed with the lift. What I added (knuckles, ball joints, drag link, etc.) were purely optional but worthwhile for the type of trails we do.
You might consider a steering stabilizer reposition kit though, especially if you drive in water. Stock is in a good place to get smashed.
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Adv_aw8s

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I have a diesel on 37's. I ran stock gearing for approximately 10k miles and then regeared to 4.56's. It did fine on stock gearing but I do like it better with 4.56's. I also live in Colorado where altitude is working against me. I just got back from sand hollow for winter jamboree and we ran all 7 rated trails. I used 2nd gear for everything and never saw a need for first. On the flip side a buddy has a diesel on 37's with stock gearing and he used 1st for everything but never had a prob of wanting lower gearing. He was still able to crawl everything without an issue. We plan to get an offroad trailer in the future so for that I think the regear is a must. For me if I had to do it over again I would definitely regear. It just makes the jeep more enjoyable to drive!
 
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I have a diesel on 37's. I ran stock gearing for approximately 10k miles and then regeared to 4.56's. It did fine on stock gearing but I do like it better with 4.56's. I also live in Colorado where altitude is working against me. I just got back from sand hollow for winter jamboree and we ran all 7 rated trails. I used 2nd gear for everything and never saw a need for first. On the flip side a buddy has a diesel on 37's with stock gearing and he used 1st for everything but never had a prob of wanting lower gearing. He was still able to crawl everything without an issue. We plan to get an offroad trailer in the future so for that I think the regear is a must. For me if I had to do it over again I would definitely regear. It just makes the jeep more enjoyable to drive!
So would 4.10 be good enough?
I'm not sure I plan on regearing, guess it depends on how it wheels on the trails, and highways.
 

grimmjeeper

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So would 4.10 be good enough?
I'm not sure I plan on regearing, guess it depends on how it wheels on the trails, and highways.
Going from 3.73 to 4.10 will be disappointing. It's just not enough of a change to be worthwhile.

If you regear, go to 4.56.
 

Adv_aw8s

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So would 4.10 be good enough?
I'm not sure I plan on regearing, guess it depends on how it wheels on the trails, and highways.
I agree with grimmjeeper going to 4.10's is not worth it. All stock diesels come with 3.73's so if you are going to regear I'd definitely go to 4.56's.
 

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grimmjeeper

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I agree with grimmjeeper going to 4.10's is not worth it. All stock diesels come with 3.73's so if you are going to regear I'd definitely go to 4.56's.
If I had a buddy with a stock gas Rubicon with 4.10s who was going to regear, I'd swap my Rubicon axles with him. I'd get 4.10s for "free" and then he'd ditch the 3.73s in favor of new gears. But that's a rare circumstance.
 
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Going from 3.73 to 4.10 will be disappointing. It's just not enough of a change to be worthwhile.

If you regear, go to 4.56.
Ok. Average price to change front and rear gears?
 

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We have stock gears on 37's and so far have not felt a need for a regear. (my TJ is on 35's and 4.56, wouldnt have considered the larger tires on that one without the regear) Still getting above 22 mpg combined. Has been excellent off road so far.. at least at the parks and trials in the southeast and Texas. Going out west to Colarado, Moab and Sand Hollow over the next year so we'll see if It changes our thoughts on the gearing.
 

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Ok. Average price to change front and rear gears?
It varies widely. Several thousand for both. Depends on options.
 

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grimmjeeper

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Ouch. Man, having a JK was so much cheaper!
Regearing a JL is probably close to a JK. I haven't looked up prices lately but gears and install kits total for both axles are maybe near $800 to $1K total. Adding lockers or limited slip isn't cheap. Labor cost is a huge variable and depends on the shop.

It's not too hard to top $2K. With selectable lockers you can hit $4K. Especially if you do air lockers and need a compressor.
 

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My AEV JL370 JLURD (37s on 2.5" lift) came with 4.63 gears (basically the same as 4.56s). That combo feels like a perfect match to me. We're in Colorado and go rock crawling just about weekly.

Don't forget to include correcting your speedo and transmission in your budget. Either pay a shop to do it or get a Tazer JL Mini or a JScan. The Tazer has a crapload of useful features.
 
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Regearing a JL is probably close to a JK. I haven't looked up prices lately but gears and install kits total for both axles are maybe near $800 to $1K total. Adding lockers or limited slip isn't cheap. Labor cost is a huge variable and depends on the shop.

It's not too hard to top $2K. With selectable lockers you can hit $4K. Especially if you do air lockers and need a compressor.
It's a Rubicon, so I won't need lockers, just regear to 4.56.
 

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increasing tire size will increase the needed torque to turn them.
the engine does have plenty of torque available, but the transmission will be working to make up that difference and handle that load while turning at lower speeds.
all of this adds up to the potential for things to be getting hotter when running at speed/elevation/in high temps.
i also didn't like the changes i felt in the way things shifted in 4Lo on the trail just going from 32s to 35s, so my plan was always to regear to 4.56s when going to 37s.


Will the ecodiesel (3.73) need to be upgraded if going to a larger tire?
Say a 35 or 37"?

I'm getting mixed answers on facebook, many say the 3.73 has enough torque where you won't notice any change with either tire, while others say you need at least 4.10 and a few that say you need much higher gearing.

I won't be rock crawling, mostly deep rutted trails, snow trails, deep sand trails, and mountain terrain.
 

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there is (or at least *was*) a way to get the Dealer to get a code specific to your vehicle that can be used to compensate for tire and gearing changes, but it costs at least $125 just to get FCA to create it and requires paperwork most dealers don't seem to be aware of.

then, it seems to have been up to the Dealer to determine how much they wanted to charge you to download it into your vehicle, though that may be moot/negotiable if you're already having a Software update (like the Rear-view Camera Fix Recall) done at the same time.


Don't forget to include correcting your speedo and transmission in your budget. Either pay a shop to do it or get a Tazer JL Mini or a JScan. The Tazer has a crapload of useful features.
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