Differential oil

[modeler]

20 JLUS, 70k km now, 43k miles, due for transfer case fluid, and over due for differential oil. want to diy during easter wknd.

I went to dealership asking for the oil price, their deferential is way overpriced for about 100 CA$ a liter.
So I just went to Canadian tire store to check price, and the CT staff show me reasonable branded gear oil 75w-80 are about $30 a liter.
Is there a problem using non-dealer OEM oil? I believe there is nothing really special about deferential oil, they are just lubricant for gears.

The oil spec as per dealer should be 75w 80 for front and rear, but online sources said 75w 140 on the back, dealer said i have 220, what the other model for.
Axle Differential (Rear M200 Sales Code DRZ) We recommend you use Mopar Gear & Axle Lubricant (SAE 75W140) (API GL-5).
Axle Differential (Rear M220 Sales Codes DRE/DRF) We recommend you use Mopar Gear & Axle Lubricant (SAE 75W85) (API GL-5). Models equipped with Trac-Lok Limited Slip Differential require a friction modifier additive.


BTW, at 70k km, out of warranty what other maintenance item I need to do now?

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[kah.mun.rah]

IMO Valvoline and/or Royal Purple are better than Mopar gear oil. There are a lot of threads here about gear oil if you want to explore any of those rabbit holes. Good chance you have changed them already but another maintenance thing to check are your cabin and engine air filters.

 

[ChoSunJuan]

As long as you use oil with the right specs, you should be fine.

 

[g2020]

For differential fluid, confirm these specs in your owner's manual:
Front differential: SAE 75W-85 (or SAE 75W-140, see post #32)
Rear differential: SAE 75W-140 (required for sales code DRZ)
All aftermarket differential fluid options, in section 1.3 of my post on Links to Prices, contain friction modifiers. Any of the differential fluid options in that section will be completely fine (but some are better than others). You should not need to add friction modifier.
In the unlikely event that you hear or feel grinding in the rear differential, and need to add a bit of friction modifier to the rear differential after the fluid is changed, add 1 fluid ounce of MOPAR 04318060AD at a time (until the noise goes away), not to exceed 2.37 fluid ounces. This MOPAR part number is listed in the same section, and can be used with other brands of differential fluid if necessary. You could buy it ahead of time and return it later if the rear diff sounds/feels fine.

In most cases, the manufacturer specifications in your owner's manual are king. There are only about 10 pages in the owner's manual that relate to manufacturer specs.

Change/replace:
Cabin air filter
Engine air filter
Front and rear differential fluid
Motor oil and filter (if necessary); always change filter too

Check:
Brake fluid
Power steering fluid (PSF)
Radiator fluid (coolant)
Transfer case fluid (ATF+4)

It is unlikely that you need new coolant, but you might need new brake fluid, PSF, and/or transfer case fluid.

Assuming that you have an automatic transmission, you shouldn't (per guidance from Jeep and ZF) need to change the ATF for the automatic transmission. However, be aware that ZF recommends changing the fluid at 93K mi / 150,000 km (normal driving). If you've taken your vehicle off-road or used it for trailer towing or any other severe duty, I would ask the dealer about changing the ATF for the automatic transmission. When performed by a dealer, this service will be expensive.

It wouldn't hurt to get a free multipoint inspection. If I had your vehicle, I would pay for one. Try to find someone at a dealer or an independent repair shop who you can trust.

Also, see the two links below. I highly recommend these two links for anyone who isn't a Jeep guru. The first link is short & sweet. The second link is long, but each individual section (one section on each type of fluid or filter) can be reviewed in five or ten minutes.

Key Info
Links to Prices (already listed above)

 

[Odyssey USA]

75w-90 for the front is fine and 75w-140 for the rear axle will be good too. It sees more wear and tear and the protection will be a plus. If you have the Trac-lok you can read the back to make sure it has the limited slip additive. Most do.

You can pick up 2 QTs of ATF+4 for the transfer case. The transfer case fill and drain plugs will need yellow thread tape like Vanguard on Amazon, Permatex high temp thread sealant, or you can get Loc-tite brand high temp thread sealant. One of those will work. I’ve used the yellow tape, no issue but it’ll be easier to use one of the sealants I recommended.

Here’s a how-to on the transfer case fluid swap in case it’s helpful.

 

[g2020]

75w-90 for the front is fine and 75w-140 for the rear axle will be good too. It sees more wear and tear and the protection will be a plus. If you have the Trac-lok you can read the back to make sure it has the limited slip additive. Most do.

You can pick up 2 QTs of ATF+4 for the transfer case. The transfer case fill and drain plugs will need yellow thread tape like Vanguard on Amazon, Permatex high temp thread sealant, or you can get Loc-tite brand high temp thread sealant. One of those will work. I’ve used the yellow tape, no issue but it’ll be easier to use one of the sealants I recommended.

Here’s a how-to on the transfer case fluid swap in case it’s helpful.

Adding to your post....Changing the transfer case fluid is easier than changing the oil & filter. I will never pay someone to change the T-case fluid ever again.

After watching a similar video last year, I added guidance on the T-case to my post on Requirements (tools, torques, etc) for a few simple jobs. The manufacturer specs (for the T-case on the JT and the JL/JLU) are probably the same, but double-check them anyway (especially torques). If you want to avoid removing the skid plate and save time, buy an aluminum turkey pan to drain the fluid over the skid plate. I think that a pre-shaped version (aluminum or maybe plastic) is available online. For the T-case, refill to bottom of the fill hole, then wipe clean after weeping stops. See other tips and reminders in my post on Requirements.

 

[Odyssey USA]

Adding to your post....Changing the transfer case fluid is easier than changing the oil & filter. I will never pay someone to change the T-case fluid ever again.

After watching a similar video last year, I added guidance on the T-case to my post on Requirements (tools, torques, etc) for a few simple jobs. The manufacturer specs (for the T-case on the JT and the JL/JLU) are probably the same, but double-check them anyway (especially torques). If you want to avoid removing the skid plate and save time, buy an aluminum turkey pan to drain the fluid over the skid plate. I think that a pre-shaped version (aluminum or maybe plastic) is available online. For the T-case, refill to bottom of the fill hole, then wipe clean after weeping stops. See other tips and reminders in my post on Requirements.

Also: My local and trusted mechanic doesn't use any sealants. He says that the plugs are designed not to leak. I plan to test this advice the next time I change the T-case fluid. If it ever leaks, I will just change the fluid again and use sealant.

I thought the same being that it’s NPT but… the factory uses a thread sealant and it’s not going to hurt to have backup. Heads up, the plugs will go in considerably further. They did with the thread tape. Seems the factory tightened just enough having some friction hold coming only from the plug in the threads but the thicker/drier sealant they used was most of the friction causing the torque wrench to stop. Basically, the NPT taper doesn’t become a stopping force until flush. Hope I explained it well enough but you’ll see when you reinstall the drain plug.

 

[g2020]

I thought the same being that it’s NPT but… the factory uses a thread sealant and it’s not going to hurt to have backup. Heads up, the plugs will go in considerably further. They did with the thread tape. Seems the factory tightened just enough having some friction hold coming only from the plug in the threads but the thicker/drier sealant they used was most of the friction causing the torque wrench to stop. Basically, the NPT taper doesn’t become a stopping force until flush. Hope I explained it well enough but you’ll see when you reinstall the drain plug.

Good point. We might be splitting hairs here, but two parts (plug and sealant) make a system, and the torque is for the system. I have removed my comments about the no-sealant technique from my earlier post. Please use sealant as advised.

 

[modeler]

thank you all, good I checked around outside the dealer, lol.

 

[Gunfighter]

Make it easy - you can use 75w 140 for both front and rear. Absolutely zero issues if you go that route.

 

[running_man]

Just changed both front and rear 3 weeks ago, went with the Valvoline. Found the bags easier to use vs bottled Lucas I used a decade ago when I changed it in my old TJ....

 

[g2020]

Make it easy - you can use 75w 140 for both front and rear. Absolutely zero issues if you go that route.

After receiving advice from CarbonSteel and others, I have changed my guidance to include the option of using 75W-140 on both axles, especially after the drivetrain warranty has expired. 75W-85 is fine for normal driving and better fuel economy, but 75W-140 offers greater durability. Also see post #32.

Following the owner's manual is also easy.

- For aftermarket brands, 75W-85 (or 75W-90, close enough) can be less expensive than 75W-140
- Even if 75W-85 is only installed in the front differential, fuel economy will be better
- For the (stock/OEM) front differential, 75W-85 (API GL-5) is specified in the owner's manual and in the internal dealer spec sheet (techCONNECT / techauthorityonline); always verify using your owner's manual

- The internal dealer spec sheet is available from the parts guy at any dealer; this is what it looks like for the Gladiator / JT​

- While 75W-140 is not specified for the front differential in the owner's manual, this thicker grade may be preferred for the front differential
- For modified vehicles, 75W-140 may be required for both axles

This debate will never be settled. Just making sure that the info is out there.

 

[WannFly]

There is thread somewhere on this forum that goes pages after pages talking about this. I will be putting -140 on both diffs, that spec comes from Dana. Same Valvoline one, easier to pour

 

[Tncdrew]

I will be putting -140 on both diffs, that spec comes from Dana. Same Valvoline one, easier to pour

Smart choice. Dana/Spicer is concerned with durability/longevity, Jeep is concerned with fuel economy.

 

[Odyssey USA]

Just changed both front and rear 3 weeks ago, went with the Valvoline. Found the bags easier to use vs bottled Lucas I used a decade ago when I changed it in my old TJ....

I remember those days. When I saw they started doing the bag I wondered why it took so long to come up with that. It’s a SMH thing for sure. lol

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