Deleting Aux Battery

[Monster118]

Now that both batteries have died, and since I have a taser with the ESS set to off, when I replace the main battery, is deleting the aux as simple as disconnecting the positive cable to the aux battery? Am I correct in assuming I also do not have to remove fuse 42 with the taser? Thanks.

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[AndySpill]

Now that both batteries have died, and since I have a taser with the ESS set to off, when I replace the main battery, is deleting the aux as simple as disconnecting the positive cable to the aux battery? Am I correct in assuming I also do not have to remove fuse 42 with the taser? Thanks.

It's far easier IMHO to remove the black cable from the negative post of the Aux battery that , sight unseen, makes its way on to the negative post of the main battery and electric tape up its end in order to remove the Aux battery from powering or being charged by the vehicle.

This is the cable that doesn't at its other end, connect to the body ground.

You still must remove Fuse 42 with the JL Tazer. This is because the Tazer can be programmed to prevent ESS events, but simply because they are off in no way effects the physical connections between the batteries. Pulling Fuse 42 prevents the Power Control Relay (PCR) from ever energizing, which when it does (at cold cranks for an instant and during ESS events) separates the batteries.

With Fuse 42 removed calls for battery power always, all the time, go to all connected batteries, of which you will now only have one, and do so without the vehicle being aware of this change.

This picture is care of @Jebiruph

 

[Monster118]

It's far easier IMHO to remove the black cable from the negative post of the Aux battery that , sight unseen, makes its way on to the negative post of the main battery and electric tape up its end in order to remove the Aux battery from powering or being charged by the vehicle.

This is the cable that doesn't at its other end, connect to the body ground.

You still must remove Fuse 42 with the JL Tazer. This is because the Tazer can be programmed to prevent ESS events, but simply because they are off in no way effects the physical connections between the batteries. Pulling Fuse 42 prevents the Power Control Relay (PCR) from ever energizing, which when it does (at cold cranks for an instant and during ESS events) separates the batteries.

With Fuse 42 removed calls for battery power always, all the time, go to all connected batteries, of which you will now only have one, and do so without the vehicle being aware of this change.

This picture is care of @Jebiruph

Using your advice should I just tape off both pos and neg cables at the aux end and remove the battery altogether. Thanks for the response, greatly appreciated.

 

[AndySpill]

Using your advice should I just tape off both pos and neg cables at the aux end and remove the battery altogether. Thanks for the response, greatly appreciated.

Your suggestion is acceptable but more work. Getting to the Aux battery, while not hard, is easier than leaving it in place and presents minimal risk of issues keeping (but disconnecting) it given that it is both a sealed battery and otherwise positioned no higher to the ground than any other vehicle component should the rare occurrence happen that is does leak.

If you wish links to how to gain access to that battery please request this. Also, there are two ways of accessing it, from above and from the side. The latter is less likely to raise issues given the former requires you to remove and reinstall the Power Distribution Center (PDC) (i.e. the fuse box) but it's a good idea to have extra plastic rivets (links also available on request) should you break some (common) gaining access to this battery from the side.

You may desire a hybrid approach that first yanks my prior post's ground cable and then revisits yanking this battery, if you want to go that route, once you have extra push pins on hand.

 

[alphawolff]

It's far easier IMHO to remove the black cable from the negative post of the Aux battery that , sight unseen, makes its way on to the negative post of the main battery and electric tape up its end in order to remove the Aux battery from powering or being charged by the vehicle.

This is the cable that doesn't at its other end, connect to the body ground.

You still must remove Fuse 42 with the JL Tazer. This is because the Tazer can be programmed to prevent ESS events, but simply because they are off in no way effects the physical connections between the batteries. Pulling Fuse 42 prevents the Power Control Relay (PCR) from ever energizing, which when it does (at cold cranks for an instant and during ESS events) separates the batteries.

With Fuse 42 removed calls for battery power always, all the time, go to all connected batteries, of which you will now only have one, and do so without the vehicle being aware of this change.

This picture is care of @Jebiruph

This is a great diagram

 

[Monster118]

Your suggestion is acceptable but more work. Getting to the Aux battery, while not hard, is easier than leaving it in place and presents minimal risk of issues keeping (but disconnecting) it given that it is both a sealed battery and otherwise positioned no higher to the ground than any other vehicle component should the rare occurrence happen that is does leak.

If you wish links to how to gain access to that battery please request this. Also, there are two ways of accessing it, from above and from the side. The latter is less likely to raise issues given the former requires you to remove and reinstall the Power Distribution Center (PDC) (i.e. the fuse box) but it's a good idea to have extra plastic rivets (links also available on request) should you break some (common) gaining access to this battery from the side.

You may desire a hybrid approach that first yanks my prior post's ground cable and then revisits yanking this battery, if you want to go that route, once you have extra push pins on hand.

Andy what negative cable are you suggestion to disconnect if not on the main battery and not the one on the aux battery below the fuse box.
As I am no mechanic or electrician what affect does the deletion do to the radio frequency hub since it seems to be powered from the aux battery.

 

[Sopwith Guy]

I just did this a couple of days ago on my JL. Removed f42, disconnected and taped up the aux ground and voila, works perfect! No messages whatsoever. I did remove the the entire negative connection from the terminal for 10 minutes to let it kinda have a reset. Seemed to work perfectly.

 

[tk1700]

The taser remembers the last position of the ESS button. So if you have ESS turned off with the taser installed ESS will be disabled. If the ESS button is on then ESS will continue to work using the aux battery, with the aux battery powering your accessories and the main battery being used to restart the engine.

To remove the aux battery from the system, disconnect the neg cable for the aux battery where it is connected on the main battery. Pull fuse 42.

With the taser installed, ESS will continue to function the same as in my first paragraph with 1 exception. The aux battery is out out of the system so the main battery will power accessories and restart the engine if ESS is engaged.

There are probably hundreds of people of this forum that have disabled the aux battery this way and it works fine. It's up to you whether you want to physically remove the aux battery, mine is still installed.

 

[AndySpill]

Andy what negative cable are you suggestion to disconnect if not on the main battery and not the one on the aux battery below the fuse box.
As I am no mechanic or electrician what affect does the deletion do to the radio frequency hub since it seems to be powered from the aux battery.

Let me approach my answer to your question this way:

Visualize the body ground under the hood. This is the pair of bolts just below the hood on the passenger's front panel. From this point a black cable will lead to the negative post of the main battery.

This cable is to be left as is, untouched and connected. It is the other factory cable that is removed from the negative post of the main battery and taped up. This cable has, sight unseen, at its other end the negative post of the Aux battery.

You need not worry about this Aux battery's deletion effecting any aspect of the vehicle but one moot one. That one moot aspect is that it's perhaps best not to run ESS events off of just the main battery, but you're preventing that with the JL Tazer.

Otherwise no power demanding component of the vehicle is denied power by this change but the very Aux battery itself.

Using Jerry's @Jebiruph's picture as a guide (there are people more knowledgeable on this than me) do note that despite the Aux battery no longer making a complete circuit with the vehicle, that the radio frequency hub you reference and express concern over getting power is still connected to the Aux battery's positive terminal and that terminal's other positive cable, which makes its way back to point N3 (on what's called the High Amp Fuse array) which is connected to N2, which is connected to your main battery. So as long as your main battery has power, the radio frequency hub is getting power and does just fine.

 

[Red Rubi 22]

Andy what negative cable are you suggestion to disconnect if not on the main battery and not the one on the aux battery below the fuse box.
As I am no mechanic or electrician what affect does the deletion do to the radio frequency hub since it seems to be powered from the aux battery.

It’s the thinner black ground cable going to the main battery from the aux.

 

[AndySpill]

It’s the thinner black ground cable going to the main battery from the aux.

I completely agree Mike but I'm going to be pedantic (sorry). It is the thinner factory black cable.

My thought here is sometimes people attach aftermarket appliance's ground wire to this point and I want to make sure the OP disconnects the correct cable.

 

[Red Rubi 22]

I completely agree Mike but I'm going to be pedantic (sorry). It is the thinner factory black cable.

My thought here is sometimes people attach aftermarket appliance's ground wire to this point and I want to make sure the OP disconnects the correct cable.

Good point. Thanks.

 

[Monster118]

I completely agree Mike but I'm going to be pedantic (sorry). It is the thinner factory black cable.

My thought here is sometimes people attach aftermarket appliance's ground wire to this point and I want to make sure the OP disconnects the correct cable.

Thanks to everyone!

 

[Monster118]

Deletion complete. Thanks for everyone’s input. I replaced the dead H6 with the H7 for my main battery.

 

[Sopwith Guy]

Easy peasy

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