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Death Wobble, got estimate what do you think?

Maverick909

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100% do not recommend synergy tie-rod's the ball joints are trash. I only got 13K miles out of them before they failed.. as for knuckle ball joints i went with danatrac HD joints and they have been great for 20K miles id do them again in a heart beat.
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2020 Rubi Diesel

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DW can be caused from tires, ball joints, and normal wear and tear on stock suspension.

Get GOOD replacement parts. I used STEER SMART and Metal Cloak for all my steering and suspension parts.
 

Westymike

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We regularly see stock Ball joints going bad around 30-40k on Jeeps with larger tires, and being the cause for DW. Your estimate seems on par but those are also fairly easy to DIY.
 

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As others have stated already with that many years, and expected mileage there is going to be wear on the steering components. And that is what causes Death Wobble, it's not a design flaw. The steering system is designed well, just not with the best parts. That is why a lot of people upgrade components to stronger, more durable replacements. It help add strength off road, but also increases lifespan on road. I won't even go into my opinion on owning a Wrangler that doesn't get taken off-road...

Yes, that quote is a little expensive, but that is not outrageous for going to a professional shop, with the ability drop off a vehicle, have it repaired properly, and have them stand behind their work. Now the real question will be if that is not all that needs to be repaired, are they going to stand behind their diagnosis if the problem still exists, or pops back up in two months. Because as many others have said, that parts list didn't include ball joints, and they are a suspect area that wears quickly.
 
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I just put on both tierod and draglink 1 ton setup from metal cloak for 750-800 bucks for parts and shipping. hardest part was getting the stock Pitman arm ball joint to break loose. took about 2 hours in total. Thus the stuck ball joint is was took most of the time. ( yes i know the stabilizer isn't bolted in place. as i took it to have it rebuilt and the bracket changed to the bigger sized tie-rod

IMG_5335.webp
That’s what i plan to do when my stock stuff wears out. What a great upgrade
 

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i used steer smarts and dynatrac ball joints on my wife's Sahara. It's drives so much better than stock.
 

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lets start with how many miles on your jeep. D W can be caused by a lot of different things. anything from tierod and rag link joints failing to bad alignment to bad caster angle. I just put on both tierod and draglink 1 ton setup from metal cloak for 750-800 bucks for parts and shipping. hardest part was getting the stock Pitman arm ball joint to break loose. took about 2 hours in total. Thus the stuck ball joint is was took most of the time. ( yes i know the stabilizer isn't bolted in place. as i took it to have it rebuilt and the bracket changed to the bigger sized tie-rod

IMG_5335.webp
Is this an AI pic , the bottom half of your tie rod clamp seems to be missing….🤣
 

yokramer

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Is this an AI pic , the bottom half of your tie rod clamp seems to be missing….🤣
Its that wifi style clamp
 

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dnb77

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Im still a Jeep newbie so please forgive if this is a stupid question. Last weekend, I almost got rear-ended by RV because my Jeep did the "death wobble" on the Highway. I took it to a local mechanic who said it needed:
  • Tie Rod
  • Drag Link Inner
  • Steering Drag Link
  • Square Neck
  • CLAMP
  • TIe Rod Adjusting Sleeve
Total cost including labor was $1859

I guess my question is, does this seem like a decent price? i saw a YouTube video on the replacement, and it said it was about a 2-3 hour job. Meanwhile, i have a mechanic friend who said if I bought the parts, he would install them for a case of beer. So my second question is if i buy the parts, does anyone have suggestions for what mfg to get? OEM?

Rant: every one i spoke to said its very common on wrangler to do death wobble, if its so common why isnt it considered a design flaw and Jeep come up with a fix for it?

Edit: I need to mention i dont offroad with it, so i dont need some rugged stuff.

Thanks for any assistance
Is your suspension and tire set up still stock?
 

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Bnelsonjax

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g but pavement driving, and you haven't "upgraded" your tires to something beyond stock (or above 33s), then the OEM linkage should be fine.
ur Death wobble can because of the following Rated most likely to least likely.
  1. Ball joints / Loose bolts on Track bar
  2. Draglink, and or Tie rod / Loose bolts on these causing excess play
  3. Control arm bushings
  4. Factory Aluminum Steering box/Pitman Arm
The best thing I would say to do is buy a box of beer for
Is your suspension and tire set up still stock?
Yes, its a Sport with stock tires, rims and everything
 

Maverick909

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Is this an AI pic , the bottom half of your tie rod clamp seems to be missing….🤣
😂😂 The whole thing is missing now. Waiting for Tara flex to fix the stripped stud on the mount 😅😂
 
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Bnelsonjax

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DW can be caused from tires, ball joints, and normal wear and tear on stock suspension.

Get GOOD replacement parts. I used STEER SMART and Metal Cloak for all my steering and suspension parts.
I only drive about 7K miles per year, and its just mostly highway miles, with that said what do you recommend for ball joints? OEM is fine? i saw Rock Auto has some good prices on non-oem.
 

Fish

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I only drive about 7K miles per year, and its just mostly highway miles, with that said what do you recommend for ball joints? OEM is fine? i saw Rock Auto has some good prices on non-oem.
If you're trying to stick with a budget friendlier option I do like Teraflex balljoints.
 
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gek

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I used teraflex on my last rig thinking of going dynatrac or metalcloak on this one. No complaints about the teraflex one for a cheaper option though.
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