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Death Wobble after Lift, only when cold outside

ducatijosh

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Hello,
I got an interesting issue I’ve been tracking for awhile. I have a 2022 Jeep Wrangler High Tide that I had a shop put a 2.5” Clayton Ride Right+ kit on with Fox 2.0 shocks. Caster was set to 6.5 degrees

The kit includes 4 springs, sway bar endlinks, both track bars and front upper control arms to fix caster angle (upper not lower like most kits)

I ran it like this for a bit with the stock BFG KO2 35” tires and the first time it was cold out I got DW coming across an expansion joint on a highway, about 40 degrees out, this happened 2-3 more times within about 10 minutes and I pulled over at a Lowe’s grabbed a torque wrench and socket and tightened the track bar to 130ft lbs, it seemed to be just shy of this as it moved some but not much.

I took it back to the shop and they messed with it for a bit swapping out random parts with ones they had and determined it was the steering stabilizer (….BS), the factory one had a dead spot in it and they said the air in there might have been freezing. I replaced it with a Fox 2.0 through shaft stabilizer as I was looking for a stiffer wheel feeling anyway but spring came and we never had another issue.

Since then I’ve replaced the wheels and tires with Method 703’s and BFG KO2 37” load Cs, we had death wobble again about a month ago when it was around 30 degrees outside, I noticed a bit of play in the drag link at the pitman arm where it was clicking so I swapped that out for a Steer Smarts drag link (tie rod still in a box in the garage, will get to that later). The steering felt much stiffer after that but today I took it out at around 11 degrees outside and got DW again when hitting a gravel filled pot hole with only the driver side.

After this I immediately went back out with my 2022 Jeep Gladiator that has the full Clayton 2.5” Overland Plus kit on 38” Nitto ridge grapplers and the same yeti drag link, I hit the pothole the same and didnt get even a tiny amount of shimmy, perfectly solid.

I’ve checked ball joints and they’re solid, zero play with a pry bar, the tire also doesn’t rock when off the ground, its solid, I’ve checked torque on all bolts, I’m curious if there could be an issue with the way the Ride Right + Clayton kit achieves caster angle using only the upper control arms? Technically the front wheel is pulled back as it’s a 2.5” lift and the lower control arms are now angled, and then the 6.5 degrees of caster was achieved by shortening the upper control arms, could this be my problem? I’ve got a set of lower control arms I havent put on yet but I’m just looking for ideas, I’ll have the alignment redone by centering the axle with the lower control arms and then adjusting caster with the uppers.

In the garage I still have the Yeti tie rod to put on and a sector shaft brace as well as the Clayton adjustable lower control arms. Or do BFG KO2 tires suck? Would be odd that I had the same issue with 35s and 37s, different wheels as well. And I don’t want to discount the fact that this all seemed to start after the lift kit was installed though it could be a coincidence.
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Fonzilla85

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I’ve been running the KO2’s in 37x12.5 17 C rated and have yet to have any issues. I took a trip into the mountains on the way back I forgot to air up, drove in 10 degree weather and had absolutely no issues. I take it you checked, air pressure and made sure they were properly balanced as part of your troubleshooting right?
 

Glamisfan

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From what I’ve read, you cannot check the ball joints by trying to rock the tire back-and-forth like we used to be able to do. I had death wobble and changing out my ball joints solved it after trying everything else.

some people swear the BFG’s could be the problem. I’m not one of those people. But just to be sure you could throw your 38’s on there just to eliminate the tires.
 
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ducatijosh

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From what I’ve read, you cannot check the ball joints by trying to rock the tire back-and-forth like we used to be able to do. I had death wobble and changing out my ball joints solved it after trying everything else.

some people swear the BFG’s could be the problem. I’m not one of those people. But just to be sure you could throw your 38’s on there just to eliminate the tires.
Well I had the axle jacked up to the point there was about an inch of space under the tire then stuffed a pry bar under the tire and lifted the tire off the ground while my wife recorded a video of the upper and lower ball joints. Neither moved at all. The rocking the wheel was testing the wheel bearings / hubs I think.

I might try swapping the 38” Nitto RGs over but the problem is I have to do it and test on a day where it’s below freezing outside.
 

Glamisfan

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Well I had the axle jacked up to the point there was about an inch of space under the tire then stuffed a pry bar under the tire and lifted the tire off the ground while my wife recorded a video of the upper and lower ball joints. Neither moved at all. The rocking the wheel was testing the wheel bearings / hubs I think.

I might try swapping the 38s over but the problem is I have to do it and test on a day where it’s below freezing outside.
yep that’s the same test I did with the same results. Ball joints seemed fine. After installing the track bar brace new track bar drag link a couple of things installing new ball joints was what finally solved the problem.
 

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Wbino

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What is your tires psi in the extreme cold?
My tires that I keep quite high (37-38) drops down to the low 20's in the extreme cold.
Maybe you need to air up in the cold?
 
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ducatijosh

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ducatijosh

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What is your tires psi in the extreme cold?
My tires that I keep quite high (37-38) drops down to the low 20's in the extreme cold.
Maybe you need to air up in the cold?
Tried that. Normally I run 32psi. They were down to 28 so I aired them up to 33 and went and hit the pothole about an hour ago. DW wasn’t as bad but still happened.
 

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Are you sure you are experiencing DW or Bump Steer? If you have had DW, it shakes violently until you are able to reduce your speed drastically and scares the living hell out of you because you think your axle is separating itself from the vehicle vs. BS that is mild shakiness that lasts a second or two at most.
 
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ducatijosh

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Are you sure you are experiencing DW or Bump Steer? If you have had DW, it shakes violently until you are able to reduce your speed drastically and scares the living hell out of you because you think your axle is separating itself from the vehicle vs. BS that is mild shakiness that lasts a second or two at most.
It’s death wobble. It shakes violently and you can hear everything in the Jeep rattling like an earthquake, I have to slow down from 55 to 25 or so to stop it. I’m able to stay in my lane just fine though… I feel like people who say they’re over the road are panicking and doing it themselves…. This coming from someone who’s dealt with a tank slapper on a motorcycle.
 

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Sorry to hear... my DW was due to a very loose steering stabilizer.
 

Roky

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yep that’s the same test I did with the same results. Ball joints seemed fine. After installing the track bar brace new track bar drag link a couple of things installing new ball joints was what finally solved the problem.
This^^^^
 

dragoneggs

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OP, how many miles? Ball joints do wear, I might suspect them if you are 30K or more.
 

Roky

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I’ve changed these jl ball joints out as early as 8k, ( they didn’t present wear with the test,) but they were the cause of DW…. and I’ve seen them last over 60k…. They are not consistent with the plastic insert….. from what you said, my guess is the ball joints…..
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