D44 Solid Diff Cover

[OminousSkitter]

This video has a lot of interesting information on the topic:

I’ve watched that video before, and a lot of the replies on this forum were along the lines of, “Of course he makes it sound like only the cover he designed and is trying to sell is good”. When I see his (and the Dana) cover with all the fins, I see something harder to clean from mud and salt. When I see covers ranging from ~$110-350, I just wonder what the benefit is and if buying one of the cheapest cast covers is bad.

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[RickyPal]

I’ve watched that video before, and a lot of the replies on this forum were along the lines of, “Of course he makes it sound like only the cover he designed and is trying to sell is good”. When I see his (and the Dana) cover with all the fins, I see something harder to clean from mud and salt. When I see covers ranging from ~$110-350, I just wonder what the benefit is and if buying one of the cheapest cast covers is bad.

Curious to others responses on this, because other than the features like dipsticks (which I really don’t see the value of) it really seems like you pay a premium for the brand bling

 

[grimmjeeper]

The Banks covers are really designed for on road use. They are effective at helping to dissipate heat.

What is missing from his marketing though is a discussion of failure rates of bearings due to excessive heat buildup or lack of pinion lubrication due to the suboptimal oil flow from a different shape cover. My anecdotal research finds little to no evidence of failure anywhere.

That being said, I would run his covers on a tow rig or highway vehicle any day. They are well designed.

As far as the other covers on the market, they are all an improvement over stock in two primary areas.

1. They protect the gears by being able to take a bigger hit without being pushed into the ring gear.

2. More importantly, they add structure to the differential housing. They resist flexing a lot more than the stamped steel factory covers. When you put on bigger tires and run shorter (higher number) gears you're increasing loads on the axle. The heavy duty diff cover helps to keep the center section from flexing. Along with a truss, they help make gears last longer and help keep you from shedding teeth.

I'm sure one could probably do engineering tests to figure out which cover is the strongest but any of the covers out there are a big improvement over stock. Pick the one that has the look and features you like and run it.

 

[OminousSkitter]

As far as the other covers on the market, they are all an improvement over stock in two primary areas.

1. They protect the gears by being able to take a bigger hit without being pushed into the ring gear.

2. More importantly, they add structure to the differential housing. They resist flexing a lot more than the stamped steel factory covers. When you put on bigger tires and run shorter (higher number) gears you're increasing loads on the axle. The heavy duty diff cover helps to keep the center section from flexing. Along with a truss, they help make gears last longer and help keep you from shedding teeth.

I'm sure one could probably do engineering tests to figure out which cover is the strongest but any of the covers out there are a big improvement over stock. Pick the one that has the look and features you like and run it.

Thanks. Yeah, being up here, I'm not too worried about heat dissipation. Shipping is a bigger concern, as that gets expensive, and the more that's bundled into the same box (like a regear kit that includes new cast diff covers), the better the shipping rate is. I know clearance and rubbing is also an issue with some people at full flex, and some covers like the ARB for the m186 specifically mention, "**Note: These will not clear track bar on stock height applications.**"

 

[CarbonSteel]

Also, follow on question since you seem well versed in differential tech. I couldn’t find any images of the inside of the Solid Cover, so I reached out and they actually provided me one. To my eye, this still looks like it matches most of the intent of the stock cover. It has some side pockets, but comparing to the commonly used ARB cover the pockets toward the side are less egregious than the ARB cover and lots of folks run those without issues. Can you see any issues with their design? I have heard some of the diff covers with horizontal cooling fins really mess with oil flow but this doesn’t seem like it would have any issues

It (more or less) has the contour shape that you see commonly used by OEMs and some aftermarket covers to help "channel" the oil over the ring gear. Truth be told, the oil has no choice but to follow the ring gear as it is the "pump" inside the housing for the oil.

It appears to be a solid piece (no pun intended) though the horizontal notch below the fill hole (above it in the photo) is a bit strange but I guess it is for the logo on the front of it.

I would run it without hesitation, just would not fill it to the bottom of the fill hole.

 

[CarbonSteel]

This video has a lot of interesting information on the topic:

Nothing against you but....that video has a lot of unsubstantiated information on the topic. There are no third-party testing standards or certified test results for any of it. Banks created his own methodologies and testing data, ergo, he is able to "prove" anything and everything he wants to.

Sales fodder at its finest...

 

[Aturking]

How are you liking those compared to the Solids you ran on the JK?

The Dana covers are similar; seem to be similar thickness and curvature, I just liked that they say Dana 44 and avantek 30 lol. watch the Gale Banks video about diff oiling and cover design. It’s really cool

 

[John Benoit]

I’ve watched that video before, and a lot of the replies on this forum were along the lines of, “Of course he makes it sound like only the cover he designed and is trying to sell is good”. When I see his (and the Dana) cover with all the fins, I see something harder to clean from mud and salt. When I see covers ranging from ~$110-350, I just wonder what the benefit is and if buying one of the cheapest cast covers is bad.

I purchased 2 Dana cast iron covers and had them powder coated to match my Jeep. The cast iron covers can take a good hit and not break or bend. The stamped steel covers can end up costing you a new set of gears and bearings. The powder coating makes the mud come off easily even after it has dried.

 

[toothirtyj]

What's your opinion on filling to the bottom of the TOP hole on the Dana/Spicer cover. That's how I run mine... Too much fluid?

Short answer: Yes, too much.

I did this exact thing. Made a 3000 mile trip from Indy to Colorado and back. Was on my way to the Outer Banks in North Carolina from Indy a few months later and blew the rear pinion seal out upon arrival to NC. Spent the week's vacation limping the Jeep around and adding fluid at the end of every day until I could get home. Really put a damper on the trip.

I do not recommend overfilling

 

[Mx5red]

I’m not really sure that feature is of interest to me for the additional $110… what’s really the selling point of a dipstick if you just stick to regular maintenance? Serious question, not being sarcastic

On install, You match the Oem cover to the ARB and mark on the dipstick where the Oem fill is… or whatever is appropriate for “your build” if pinion angle or whatever changes the where that amount would be on the dipstick. So you can check the level, like your oil.
There are also magnets on the fill/drain bolts.

 

[Chance_P]

Short answer: Yes, too much.

I did this exact thing. Made a 3000 mile trip from Indy to Colorado and back. Was on my way to the Outer Banks in North Carolina from Indy a few months later and blew the rear pinion seal out upon arrival to NC. Spent the week's vacation limping the Jeep around and adding fluid at the end of every day until I could get home. Really put a damper on the trip.

I do not recommend overfilling

I swapped in Rubicon axles about 8k miles ago. They have been filled to the bottom of the top hole, and within the last 150 miles, my pinion seal developed a serious leak. I just replaced it a few days ago, and re(over)filled my diff. I'll have to drain it all and measure it out before filling this time.

Sorry to hijack the thread, but I'm glad this conversation happened. Thanks.

 

[CarbonSteel]

I swapped in Rubicon axles about 8k miles ago. They have been filled to the bottom of the top hole, and within the last 150 miles, my pinion seal developed a serious leak. I just replaced it a few days ago, and re(over)filled my diff. I'll have to drain it all and measure it out before filling this time.

Sorry to hijack the thread, but I'm glad this conversation happened. Thanks.

1.6-1.7QTs is what you need (will certainly get you close).

 

[RickyPal]

Well, after looking at the pictures the solid cover is out anyways. The bolt pattern (solid has 10 holes my diff has 12) and shape of the cover doesn’t match up..


Does the Dana spicer Dana 44 for the JL work on the M210? Correct number bolt holes, but my diff has a flat on the bottom 2 where the Dana spicer cover has a slight angle under the bottom center 2 holes

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...7u32YG9zFMLVOSuuM8ZymPhYmVWkGgDIaAroHEALw_wcB

Here is an image I have on hand when I first picked the jeep up:

 

[CarbonSteel]

Well, after looking at the pictures the solid cover is out anyways. The bolt pattern (solid has 10 holes my diff has 12) and shape of the cover doesn’t match up..


Does the Dana spicer Dana 44 for the JL work on the M210? Correct number bolt holes, but my diff has a flat on the bottom 2 where the Dana spicer cover has a slight angle under the bottom center 2 holes

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...7u32YG9zFMLVOSuuM8ZymPhYmVWkGgDIaAroHEALw_wcB

Here is an image I have on hand when I first picked the jeep up:

You need two different ones for the front and rear:

Front (M210) = https://www.drivetrainspecialists.c...n-differential-cover-kit-gray---10044799.html

Rear (M220) = https://www.drivetrainspecialists.c...ron-differential-cover-kit-grey-10040651.html

 

[Chance_P]

Short answer: Yes, too much.

I did this exact thing. Made a 3000 mile trip from Indy to Colorado and back. Was on my way to the Outer Banks in North Carolina from Indy a few months later and blew the rear pinion seal out upon arrival to NC. Spent the week's vacation limping the Jeep around and adding fluid at the end of every day until I could get home. Really put a damper on the trip.

I do not recommend overfilling

1.6-1.7QTs is what you need (will certainly get you close).

I drained and refilled with roughly 1.7-1.8qts and I had about 0.6qts left. Definitely had way too much in there, which is probably what blew my pinion seal after only 10k miles. Thanks for the suggestion guys.

This was filling to the bottom of the top hole on the Dana cast cover on my rear axle.

Sorry for the hijack again, but I wanted to share these results.

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