Unrestrained driver and physics. Either the first roll broke the window or the driver's body broke it as he was ejected from the vehicle.
This is why wearing seat belts greatly improves your chance of surviving a crash.
In researching this, It looks like DeeZee provides two options for the JL: A 24" version and a 60" version, each with two cross bars.
https://www.deezee.com/product/roof-rack/
Based on your photos it looks like you're running the 60" version on your two door, added the cross bars from the...
Can you elaborate on what happened, what the effect on the clutch system was, and what you did to fix it?
Stabbing in the clutch slave cylinder was one of the things I took extreme care in doing, per @Actman 's advice, when I personally replaced my OEM clutch with the JP6 kit.
I had no issues...
It did seem they were the same but in a very unscientific way. The rear capacity is "3.06 pts" and I was using Valvoline gear oil which came in bags of quarts.
I think your water experiment could be very interesting but at the end of the day, I will continued to only fill to the bottom hole.
Take my advice and DO NOT overfill the differential because it will result in a pinion seal leak. I added these covers to my '21 Willys while I was doing a 500 mile gear oil change after my re-gear. At that time, thinking the extra hole was for more capacity, I filled to the bottom of the top...
@Obscurity ... You can spend thousands of dollars for new gears and proverbially kick the can up the gear range or, again, simply use your engine's full potential. Hope this helps.
Not necessarily. It depends on how you drive your Jeep.
Having a JLUR you already have 4.10 gearing so if you plan on keeping stock tires, changing your gear ratios isn't really an appropriate solution to your problem.
Put the 3.6L through it's paces and use the whole RPM range. You might be...
The 3.6L engine can be wound out, and live, near the top of the RPM range where the power is.
Don't be afraid to keep the RPM's up. You won't hurt the motor.
@grimmjeeper beat me by a nose
What kind of "Bang" are you looking for?
Easy to clean?
Road Noise Impact?
Insulation value?
Body Color Matched?
Durability?
Added Value?
Ease of Installation?
I installed the full Armorlite kit in my JL last summer and love it. The quality, fit, and performance make it easy to understand...
I'd like to know how many milliseconds it took those bystanders to go from "glad to be alive" to "I'm gonna kill this guy."
The dash cam looks like it was in a 392, and the black one appears to have a 392 hood maybe?
The current Dodge Challenger "Body-In-White" is simply a body shell. No controllers, heaters, AC, electronics, glass, etc...
In the link above, it's listed as $7999 primed (P5160605AA) , or $9999 painted (P5160608AA).
The purpose of the Challenger was to allow a racer to completely fabricate...
"6. Completely disable all traction control and abs during wheeling (if needed)"
Forgive me if you already know this explaination but your question was a little vauge.
With JScan and Tazer (I have Tazer) the Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS), Traction Control System (TCS), and Electronic Stability...
I second this! Huge fan of steelies and dog dishes and your Jeep pulls em off well, especially with the decal deletes. Very slick
They look like stock, bare bones, Jeep but could you share a brand, size, and part #?
So... in my pea brain I'm thinking the following:
"Spin-off" and "recently launched" = Do what now?
"highly standardized" = fits all generally, fits none perfectly... (never acceptable for MY application)
I wish you the best but I'm highly skeptical and I can't wait for your reviews. Please...