build suggestions

[Reinen]

ah, my idea was a "safari" type build, very little rock crawling, but still possible if I need too

sort of an australian type offroader

ive got a buddy that wants to try and make a tray for the back half of a 2door

If you're going to go for something like this you will have to consider weight. Stock springs (even recon) will compress much more than you think. These Australian type off-roaders have Australian type suspensions. Not stock.

I have the kind of setup you're going for and do the kind of wheeling you plan to do. Stock springs collapse under the weight and ride way too low. I hit bump stops way too often and not on particularly extreme terrain.

I resolved this with OME 2" Heavy Load springs. They perform exceptionally well with that kind of weight. You should also consider upgrading control arms and track bars. Stock arms & bars are designed for stock weight, which you will exceed. Better safe than sorry and in the middle of nowhere.

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[basiblaster]

Yeah, for the mud you're going to want lockers. The Baja Boss also comes in a much more agressive M/T that is also very well liked.

The auto LYNX disconnects are pricy, but for the mud you'd love them! A quick turn of a knob and you're locked/unlocked and the reviews have said they hold up fantatic in the mud.

Just reading back through the thread, I remember being told that lockers are terrible in the snow, and LSDs are better, that’s what my Willy’s has in the rear.

should I start with just a front locker and see how that goes? I kinda like how you don’t need to engage a lsd like a locking diff.

as for the lynx, im not too sure about it, the mud around here is known for tearing parts off of cars and from the few videos I’ve watched, the lynx looks fairly thin compared to other options

I do like the idea, but I’d rather something not fail on me/get ripped off by brush

 

[Flip]

ah, my idea was a "safari" type build, very little rock crawling, but still possible if I need too

sort of an australian type offroader

ive got a buddy that wants to try and make a tray for the back half of a 2door

Are you fixing to do some overlanding buddy. I was recently watching this overlander video. The next time I get pulled over or go through a road check I'm just going to say " I'm a tourist I'm going to Camaroon "

 

[basiblaster]

Are you fixing to do some overlanding buddy. I was recently watching this overlander video. The next time I get pulled over or go through a road check I'm just going to say " I'm a tourist I'm going to Camaroon "

I certainly want to, but most long trips will probably be on my motorcycle, I find it extremely difficult to sit in a car for more then a few hours when I have a bike sitting in my garage

 

[leonardd]

Sounds like an awesome build in the making, the Willys Sport is a solid platform to start with. You’ve got a really well thought out list already. A few thoughts and suggestions from my own experience and seeing similar builds:

Bumpers & Winch – The Mopar steel bumpers are clean and functional, and pairing them with a Warn 10k is a great call. That winch is pretty much bulletproof. If you haven’t picked one up yet, keep an eye out for sales — they pop up every now and then.

Diff Locks – Ox lockers are great, especially if you want the manual cable setup — super reliable and no wiring headaches. Just be sure your gearing is dialed in if you're jumping to 35s, otherwise lockers won’t be as effective off-road.

Tires & Lift – 35s with Rubi springs will get you that 1.5" lift, which is just right for a 2-door. You may still want to trim a bit or go with bump stop extensions depending on your flex. High fenders are a solid move and will give you some breathing room.

Skid Plates & Sliders – Definitely go frame-mounted on the sliders — big difference when things get rough. MetalCloak makes legit armor; their full belly skid is a good option and gives you peace of mind. It adds weight, but it’s worth it.

AUX Switches & Swaybar Disconnects – Mopar AUX switches integrate cleanly if you're planning to add lights, lockers, or compressor down the line. For the sway bar, JKS makes a good manual disconnect if you're not going full Rubi electronic.

Regearing – With 35s, you’ll want to regear for sure. 4.88s seem to be a sweet spot for both crawling and highway if you’re on an auto. Manual could maybe get away with 4.56s, but 4.88 still makes it feel much more lively.

Order of Mods – I’d recommend something like this:

1. Tires/wheels + lift (including high fenders)
2. Regear + lockers (do them together to save time/labor)
3. Bumpers + winch
4. Sliders + skids
5. AUX switches + electrical
6. Sway bar disconnects

That way you’ve got clearance and drivetrain sorted early, and can build up protection and accessories after. Good luck with it — excited to see how it turns out!

 

[2nd 392]

Just reading back through the thread, I remember being told that lockers are terrible in the snow, and LSDs are better, that’s what my Willy’s has in the rear.

should I start with just a front locker and see how that goes? I kinda like how you don’t need to engage a lsd like a locking diff.

as for the lynx, im not too sure about it, the mud around here is known for tearing parts off of cars and from the few videos I’ve watched, the lynx looks fairly thin compared to other options

I do like the idea, but I’d rather something not fail on me/get ripped off by brush

Locking the front is what’s terrible in heavy snow, just plow straight ahead regardless of how the wheels are turned. But we can now turn them off, instead of leaving one hub unlocked like the manual locker days. LSD has no off, we have no selectable hubs, but they aren’t as bad. It’s also sometimes advantageous to have an open rear, but having LSD can be too, like lighter snow.

 

[Bill_BCNtoNY]

If you expect to hit slippery more than heavy rock crawling, consider adding truetracs front and rear (instead of the lockers). Mechanical, too, and no need to engage anything.

and +1 on what @Reinen said about control arms and trackbars. On the gearing, I differ though - I got the 3.6 Auto with 4.56 and thi k that’s right for 35s, but it’s personal preference vs the 4.88.

 

[basiblaster]

Sounds like an awesome build in the making, the Willys Sport is a solid platform to start with. You’ve got a really well thought out list already. A few thoughts and suggestions from my own experience and seeing similar builds:

Bumpers & Winch – The Mopar steel bumpers are clean and functional, and pairing them with a Warn 10k is a great call. That winch is pretty much bulletproof. If you haven’t picked one up yet, keep an eye out for sales — they pop up every now and then.

Diff Locks – Ox lockers are great, especially if you want the manual cable setup — super reliable and no wiring headaches. Just be sure your gearing is dialed in if you're jumping to 35s, otherwise lockers won’t be as effective off-road.

Tires & Lift – 35s with Rubi springs will get you that 1.5" lift, which is just right for a 2-door. You may still want to trim a bit or go with bump stop extensions depending on your flex. High fenders are a solid move and will give you some breathing room.

Skid Plates & Sliders – Definitely go frame-mounted on the sliders — big difference when things get rough. MetalCloak makes legit armor; their full belly skid is a good option and gives you peace of mind. It adds weight, but it’s worth it.

AUX Switches & Swaybar Disconnects – Mopar AUX switches integrate cleanly if you're planning to add lights, lockers, or compressor down the line. For the sway bar, JKS makes a good manual disconnect if you're not going full Rubi electronic.

Regearing – With 35s, you’ll want to regear for sure. 4.88s seem to be a sweet spot for both crawling and highway if you’re on an auto. Manual could maybe get away with 4.56s, but 4.88 still makes it feel much more lively.

Order of Mods – I’d recommend something like this:

1. Tires/wheels + lift (including high fenders)
2. Regear + lockers (do them together to save time/labor)
3. Bumpers + winch
4. Sliders + skids
5. AUX switches + electrical
6. Sway bar disconnects

That way you’ve got clearance and drivetrain sorted early, and can build up protection and accessories after. Good luck with it — excited to see how it turns out!

I was thinking I would get a winch and a plate for on top of the plastic bumper first, as that will give me more piece of mind (and I’ll already have a winch to move into the bumper)

 

[basiblaster]

Locking the front is what’s terrible in heavy snow, just plow straight ahead regardless of how the wheels are turned. But we can now turn them off, instead of leaving one hub unlocked like the manual locker days. LSD has no off, we have no selectable hubs, but they aren’t as bad. It’s also sometimes advantageous to have an open rear, but having LSD can be too, like lighter snow.

I’ve been thinking about starting with front lsd+rear lsd? Then add a rear and maybe a front locker after I see what I need, would that be a good idea?

one of my main concerns of modding is on road drivability as I still will use it daily

 

[basiblaster]

If you expect to hit slippery more than heavy rock crawling, consider adding truetracs front and rear (instead of the lockers). Mechanical, too, and no need to engage anything.

and +1 on what @Reinen said about control arms and trackbars. On the gearing, I differ though - I got the 3.6 Auto with 4.56 and thi k that’s right for 35s, but it’s personal preference vs the 4.88.

My main concern is mud, as a lot of our trails have deep pits even on the rocky trails, again, I’m not too experienced, but I know of the advantages of lockers in mud compared to lsds

I don’t know if I want autolockers, my brother had one in his Chevy and he said you need to drive kinda heavy-footed to get them to engage, and sometimes they’d engage when you don’t want them too

would starting with 4.10 be better? My mom’s rubi x has 4.10 and it already seems way better than the 3.75 that the sport has. Plus I still want to get decent wheel speed for powering through mud and sand

 

[basiblaster]

Sounds like an awesome build in the making, the Willys Sport is a solid platform to start with. You’ve got a really well thought out list already. A few thoughts and suggestions from my own experience and seeing similar builds:

Bumpers & Winch – The Mopar steel bumpers are clean and functional, and pairing them with a Warn 10k is a great call. That winch is pretty much bulletproof. If you haven’t picked one up yet, keep an eye out for sales — they pop up every now and then.

Diff Locks – Ox lockers are great, especially if you want the manual cable setup — super reliable and no wiring headaches. Just be sure your gearing is dialed in if you're jumping to 35s, otherwise lockers won’t be as effective off-road.

Tires & Lift – 35s with Rubi springs will get you that 1.5" lift, which is just right for a 2-door. You may still want to trim a bit or go with bump stop extensions depending on your flex. High fenders are a solid move and will give you some breathing room.

Skid Plates & Sliders – Definitely go frame-mounted on the sliders — big difference when things get rough. MetalCloak makes legit armor; their full belly skid is a good option and gives you peace of mind. It adds weight, but it’s worth it.

AUX Switches & Swaybar Disconnects – Mopar AUX switches integrate cleanly if you're planning to add lights, lockers, or compressor down the line. For the sway bar, JKS makes a good manual disconnect if you're not going full Rubi electronic.

Regearing – With 35s, you’ll want to regear for sure. 4.88s seem to be a sweet spot for both crawling and highway if you’re on an auto. Manual could maybe get away with 4.56s, but 4.88 still makes it feel much more lively.

Order of Mods – I’d recommend something like this:

1. Tires/wheels + lift (including high fenders)
2. Regear + lockers (do them together to save time/labor)
3. Bumpers + winch
4. Sliders + skids
5. AUX switches + electrical
6. Sway bar disconnects

That way you’ve got clearance and drivetrain sorted early, and can build up protection and accessories after. Good luck with it — excited to see how it turns out!

And also, should I rock the stock rims? I don’t want to get rims that force my tires out at all (more stress on the steering mech) but if I have no choice I will

 

[2nd 392]

I’ve been thinking about starting with front lsd+rear lsd? Then add a rear and maybe a front locker after I see what I need, would that be a good idea?

one of my main concerns of modding is on road drivability as I still will use it daily

Having had LSD’s as mentioned I would not have them in the front due to lessened steering control in deep snow or mud. I forget the term someone more knowledgeable than me used saying essentially the front is lesser LS adjusted than the back and control is better than front lockers, but still marginal.
……story- when I told my cousin I got Detroit Lockers on my 63 .. “You’re not gonna like them in front”. ….. yep, winch assisted steering in deep snow or mud sux. …. I never dawned on me to leave a hub unlocked until told……. years later .

 

[Aonar]

__________________________________________________________________

Since you are planning on spending $$ on bumpers, DO NOT add the Mopar rear!

As stated by @The Last Cowboy, ""the rear one is notoriously weak"".
Hit this forum link to read some of the links about this well-known issue. Invest that money in something like the @Metalcloak Rear Bumper which is specifically designed to help eliminate the rear from flexing up-into your JP's body.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...-with-plastic-oem-bumpers.146492/post-3056290

I did keep my front metal Mopar and added a winch. No problems. I did, however remove the ends.

As to this question, "also what would be the best order to do the mods in?"
AND after this statement, "very little rock crawling",

AND if the budget only allows for 1-3 mods a year,

I would go with the:
-Winch/Front Bumper to help with self-extraction as my first expenditure from your list. Most of the terrain you showed was mud.
-Second, IF you don't have some RT's or MT's on her, AND you are OK selling off the existing tires B4 they are worn out, buy those 35's!

I did more "protection" before I bought new tires, but I do more crawling than mud.

At this point your budget is probably $3000 USD's poor-er.

GL on your build and HAVE FUN!

 

[C.Sco]

hey all,

I've been thinking more and more about modifying my jeep, so I've come up with a list of things id like to do to it

any suggestions/recommendations for brands or mods are more than welcome

this is for a 2023 willys sport 2d

Mopar steel bumpers front/rear
warn 10k winch
oxlocks diff locks F/R (manual?)
35" tires
rubi high fenders+ flares
Rubi springs for 1.5" lift
mopar AUX switch bank
Quick swaybar disconnect
proper frame mounted rock sliders (I have the rubi body mounted ones)
full size skid plate (metalcloak?)

along with any regearing/additional accessories to make the above possible

also what would be the best order to do the mods in?

Without weighing in with my opinions of each of these particular mods, here's my vote for the order I'd do them in:

1. Rubi springs for 1.5" lift
2. rubi high fenders+ flares
3. 35" tires
4. Quick swaybar disconnect
5. oxlocks diff locks F/R (manual?)
6. proper frame mounted rock sliders (I have the rubi body mounted ones)
7. Mopar steel bumpers front/rear
8. warn 10k winch
9. full size skid plate (metalcloak?)
10. mopar AUX switch bank

Now, for some opinions on those things (in the order I listed them above), since you asked for them. With bonus emojis:

1. That's a good way to get a cheap lift, rubi takeoff suspensions are dirt cheap, sometimes free.
2. Same as above
3. Good size to go with for your Jeep. I love my Trail Grapplers and highly recommend them for a daily driver that offroads on the weekends, good all around performance for everything.
4. Yep, you're gonna want those. Many solid brands to pick from.
5. You're definitely going to want lockers of some sort if you offroad a lot, but I have no idea which kinds/brands to suggest, mine has the stock Rubicon e-lockers.
6. The front steel bumper is good, the rear steel bumper is meh. But either way, since you're buying new bumpers anyways, why go with the mopar ones? Tons of better aftermarket options out there for less money (unless you find used takeoffs for cheap)
7. Good call. The rubi sliders are okay for light offroading, but if you plan to really bash on some rocks you need frame-mounted sliders. I love my LoD ones.
8. Winch is a good idea, but if you're not really locked into wanting a Warn branded winch, there are better value winches out there, like some of the Badlands ones. Don't blame you for wanting a Warn branded winch though, I did too lol.
9. I love having a full skid system, and I'm pretty sure it's already paid for itself with the damage it's prevented. I have the MC skid set and can highly recommend it. It's extremely heavy though, so maybe consider an aluminum version instead, unless you think you really need steel ones. My Jeep is heavy as hell (over 6,000 pounds) so I wanted steel, and don't regret it. But your Jeep is much lighter, and maybe doesn't need steel, depending on what you do with it.
10. I added Mopar aux switches to mine, because it didn't come with them, and I'm not sure I'd recommend doing it. The factory-look is nice, and the infotainment integration is great, but it's a pretty expensive way to add aux switches to your Jeep and it's a HUGE pain in the ass to install it. If I had to do it again I'd just get an aftermarket switch bank and call it a day.

 

[basiblaster]

__________________________________________________________________

Since you are planning on spending $$ on bumpers, DO NOT add the Mopar rear!

As stated by @The Last Cowboy, ""the rear one is notoriously weak"".
Hit this forum link to read some of the links about this well-known issue. Invest that money in something like the @Metalcloak Rear Bumper which is specifically designed to help eliminate the rear from flexing up-into your JP's body.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...-with-plastic-oem-bumpers.146492/post-3056290

I did keep my front metal Mopar and added a winch. No problems. I did, however remove the ends.

As to this question, "also what would be the best order to do the mods in?"
AND after this statement, "very little rock crawling",

AND if the budget only allows for 1-3 mods a year,

I would go with the:
-Winch/Front Bumper to help with self-extraction as my first expenditure from your list. Most of the terrain you showed was mud.
-Second, IF you don't have some RT's or MT's on her, AND you are OK selling off the existing tires B4 they are worn out, buy those 35's!

I did more "protection" before I bought new tires, but I do more crawling than mud.

At this point your budget is probably $3000 USD's poor-er.

GL on your build and HAVE FUN!

I’ve got the Firestone mt2s

Without weighing in with my opinions of each of these particular mods, here's my vote for the order I'd do them in:

1. Rubi springs for 1.5" lift
2. rubi high fenders+ flares
3. 35" tires
4. Quick swaybar disconnect
5. oxlocks diff locks F/R (manual?)
6. proper frame mounted rock sliders (I have the rubi body mounted ones)
7. Mopar steel bumpers front/rear
8. warn 10k winch
9. full size skid plate (metalcloak?)
10. mopar AUX switch bank

Now, for some opinions on those things (in the order I listed them above), since you asked for them. With bonus emojis:

1. That's a good way to get a cheap lift, rubi takeoff suspensions are dirt cheap, sometimes free.
2. Same as above
3. Good size to go with for your Jeep. I love my Trail Grapplers and highly recommend them for a daily driver that offroads on the weekends, good all around performance for everything.
4. Yep, you're gonna want those. Many solid brands to pick from.
5. You're definitely going to want lockers of some sort if you offroad a lot, but I have no idea which kinds/brands to suggest, mine has the stock Rubicon e-lockers.
6. The front steel bumper is good, the rear steel bumper is meh. But either way, since you're buying new bumpers anyways, why go with the mopar ones? Tons of better aftermarket options out there for less money (unless you find used takeoffs for cheap)
7. Good call. The rubi sliders are okay for light offroading, but if you plan to really bash on some rocks you need frame-mounted sliders. I love my LoD ones.
8. Winch is a good idea, but if you're not really locked into wanting a Warn branded winch, there are better value winches out there, like some of the Badlands ones. Don't blame you for wanting a Warn branded winch though, I did too lol.
9. I love having a full skid system, and I'm pretty sure it's already paid for itself with the damage it's prevented. I have the MC skid set and can highly recommend it. It's extremely heavy though, so maybe consider an aluminum version instead, unless you think you really need steel ones. My Jeep is heavy as hell (over 6,000 pounds) so I wanted steel, and don't regret it. But your Jeep is much lighter, and maybe doesn't need steel, depending on what you do with it.
10. I added Mopar aux switches to mine, because it didn't come with them, and I'm not sure I'd recommend doing it. The factory-look is nice, and the infotainment integration is great, but it's a pretty expensive way to add aux switches to your Jeep and it's a HUGE pain in the ass to install it. If I had to do it again I'd just get an aftermarket switch bank and call it a day.

I want the mopar bumpers mostly because they look super clean and I hate the look of most bumpers out there, all angular and angry

I have been eyeing the quadratec qrc front and rear bumpers though, however the front doesn’t have a skid plate to protect the steering components

I really like the mopar switches because I want to keep it as OEM as possible, and keep the cab free of as much clutter as possible

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