Body mount bolts normal or reverse threaded?

[WontonJLUR]

I had to remove mine also for the rock sliders. They do have threadlocker and I would never use a breaker bar on them. Even a 1/2 socket wrench can exert too much force and break them. I used a lot of PB Blaster and a cheap heat gun, but even an old hair dryer can help. Be careful with using torque wrenches as breaker bars as some specifically say not to use force on the reversing setting as it will throw the calibration off. A turn forward and 1/4 back off continuously is a great idea. I also kept hitting them with a hammer to help loosen any corrosion.

If you break a body bolt off, you'll probably better off taking it to a body shop to repair. I used anti-seize on mine for future use.

Length of the breaker bar handle doesn't matter IF you can carefully control your torque application. I do agree that if you're going to apply the same amount of force to a long lever or a short lever, you will run a higher risk of breaking the bolt. You can apply 50ftlbs of torque with a short ratchet and a long ratchet.

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[arnie_mueller]

I pulled out the torque wrench and I am applying over 100ft lbs of force to remove this front bolt, should it be that much or is something wrong? The washers are loose to move around, the bolt is coming out very slowly but I’m still afraid of breaking it. Typically when I remove a bolt, after breaking the initial tightness, I can unscrew it by hand. If his bugger is still as tight as it was initially.

 

[WontonJLUR]

I pulled out the torque wrench and I am applying over 100ft lbs of force to remove this front bolt, should it be that much or is something wrong? The washers are loose to move around, the bolt is coming out very slowly but I’m still afraid of breaking it. Typically when I remove a bolt, after breaking the initial tightness, I can unscrew it by hand. If his bugger is still as tight as it was initially.

It's all the thread locker holding on. It'll probably be a pain all the way out, but, like others have said, highly recommend going back and forth between tightening and loosening. Obviously not torquing it tight, but just slowly working the bolt back and forth, and trying to get loosen it progressively more each time. But slow and steady is king.

 

[arnie_mueller]

Thanks to all!! I’m going to spend the next two days removing 6 bolts. update to come! Hopefully a happy one.

 

[arnie_mueller]

Hrjdksksjdjfijj7:&2!3848(‘isekakamnbhsikK&j76))t66))):7384!hhzhnoek!!!!!!!!!!!!!




THANK YOU FOR ALL THE CONFIDENCE INSTILLING ASSISTANCE!!!!!!!! What a PITA! I feel good about the other 5 now. Slow and steady, little heat, don’t rush it.

I’m extremely relieved, thank you all so much!!!!!!!

 

[WontonJLUR]

Hrjdksksjdjfijj7:&2!3848(‘isekakamnbhsikK&j76))t66))):7384!hhzhnoek!!!!!!!!!!!!!




THANK YOU FOR ALL THE CONFIDENCE INSTILLING ASSISTANCE!!!!!!!! What a PITA! I feel good about the other 5 now. Slow and steady, little heat, don’t rush it.

I’m extremely relieved, thank you all so much!!!!!!!

Hell yeah brother!

That's the perfect formula. Nice work.

 

[Deleted User 38384]

I’m installing some Rusty’s sliders which require the removal of body mount bolts. Are these things normal lefty loosey righty righty? I’m on the passenger side and the front one almost seems to be getting tighter. I tried the middle one and I heard a big snap.

I’m laying under the Jeep looking up and turning the normal threaded direction. Before I break something that’s going to cost too much to repair, need some wisdom.

I had a head mechanic at a off-road shop I used to frequent Tell me that when removing body bolts, your best bet so you don't break the head is to wait until you have about 3 days without any sort of precipitation, and each and every of those three days day, twice a day, morning and evening, spray some PB Blaster Penetrating Oil on the bolts you're going to be loosening. And then on the fourth day, you can remove the bolts.

The head mechanic told me you could not do this, and he's personally seen about a 75-25 chance that the bolts either don't or do break (in that order), but if you do that with the PB Blaster in advance, then it bumps up to a 99-1 ratio.


I personally have used this specific type of prep myself when I was removing my sway bar from my JL. Was trying to crank them off one night, couldn't get the four bolts to come off. I was afraid I was going to break the heads off using a pry bar. So I took the PB blaster, and hosed it down, all four bolts. Did it again in the morning, and then again the next evening, and then a little later that same night, I started cranking on them and by God they came off like butter!!

Put this way, a can of PB Blaster from Walmart is under $10, and one can will do the trick. So worst case scenario if you do use the PB blaster, you're out $10 and you got to wait 4 days to do your project but if you plan it accordingly you can get it done next weekend.

The other option is crank them off without the penetrating oil, and if you break a head, you're f***ed! At that point you're going to have to use the PB Blaster anyways, and it's going to take you a whole lot longer to yank those threads out now!!


Edit: The heating trick does work, but if you were planning on doing the project on the weekend anyways, a little bit of planning will go a lot further and you won't have to worry about heating up the bolts and slowly taking them off. Three days of minimal prep and you can take them off all at once within less than 10 minutes. The heating trick works if you need it done now, but it also takes significantly longer to get each and every bolt off. Put it this way, the amount of time it will take you to spray each bolt six times, and then yank them off on the fourth day will still be less time then it'll take you to heat up and remove just one side of the Jeep's body bolts.

But again if you need it done now, you don't really have a lot of options, do you.

 

[arnie_mueller]

I had a head mechanic at a off-road shop I used to frequent Tell me that when removing body bolts, your best bet so you don't break the head is to wait until you have about 3 days without any sort of precipitation, and each and every of those three days day, twice a day, morning and evening, spray some PB Blaster Penetrating Oil on the bolts you're going to be loosening. And then on the fourth day, you can remove the bolts.

The head mechanic told me you could not do this, and he's personally seen about a 75-25 chance that the bolts either don't or do break (in that order), but if you do that with the PB Blaster in advance, then it bumps up to a 99-1 ratio.


I personally have used this specific type of prep myself when I was removing my sway bar from my JL. Was trying to crank them off one night, couldn't get the four bolts to come off. I was afraid I was going to break the heads off using a pry bar. So I took the PB blaster, and hosed it down, all four bolts. Did it again in the morning, and then again the next evening, and then a little later that same night, I started cranking on them and by God they came off like butter!!

Put this way, a can of PB Blaster from Walmart is under $10, and one can will do the trick. So worst case scenario if you do use the PB blaster, you're out $10 and you got to wait 4 days to do your project but if you plan it accordingly you can get it done next weekend.

The other option is crank them off without the penetrating oil, and if you break a head, you're f***ed! At that point you're going to have to use the PB Blaster anyways, and it's going to take you a whole lot longer to yank those threads out now!!


Edit: The heating trick does work, but if you were planning on doing the project on the weekend anyways, a little bit of planning will go a lot further and you won't have to worry about heating up the bolts and slowly taking them off. Three days of minimal prep and you can take them off all at once within less than 10 minutes. The heating trick works if you need it done now, but it also takes significantly longer to get each and every bolt off. Put it this way, the amount of time it will take you to spray each bolt six times, and then yank them off on the fourth day will still be less time then it'll take you to heat up and remove just one side of the Jeep's body bolts.

But again if you need it done now, you don't really have a lot of options, do you.

I don’t know how I would spray them, I only have access to the head and they’re upside down so the liquid wouldn’t penetrate up to get to the threads.

I have so,e pb blaster I just lubed my garage door with, it’s silicone lube meant for garage doors so I’d probably need to get a general purpose.

 

[roaniecowpony]

Now I’m even more worried. I’ll look up how to use a torch on bolts and go buy one. Excuse to buy more tools!

Hrjdksksjdjfijj7:&2!3848(‘isekakamnbhsikK&j76))t66))):7384!hhzhnoek!!!!!!!!!!!!!




THANK YOU FOR ALL THE CONFIDENCE INSTILLING ASSISTANCE!!!!!!!! What a PITA! I feel good about the other 5 now. Slow and steady, little heat, don’t rush it.

I’m extremely relieved, thank you all so much!!!!!!!

Quit messing around and just get an induction heater. Save yourself....from yourself.

Amazon.com : induction bolt heater

 

[arnie_mueller]

Quit messing around and just get an induction heater. Save yourself....from yourself.

Amazon.com : induction bolt heater

Next time. I’m considering this as my initiation project where I have to use the old and more difficult method. The same way I tell everyone that they have to bleed their brakes at least once the old fashioned way and then and only then can they go out and buy speed bleeders.

 

[arnie_mueller]

Anyone have suggestions for these bolts? They’re chewed up some, threads probably still okay though.

Im considering cleaning them up with a wire brush and metal pick to get themlooking nicer then drop some anti-seize on the tip for a little lube <insert Michael Scott joke> then another drop of appropriate loctite where the factory put it.

yay/nay?

again, thank you all so much, I can’t demonstrate how appreciative I am for the help.

 

[WontonJLUR]

Anyone have suggestions for these bolts? They’re chewed up some, threads probably still okay though.

Im considering cleaning them up with a wire brush and metal pick to get themlooking nicer then drop some anti-seize on the tip for a little lube <insert Michael Scott joke> then another drop of appropriate loctite where the factory put it.

yay/nay?

again, thank you all so much, I can’t demonstrate how appreciative I am for the help.

Don't use antiseize and loctite on the same bolt. Loctite performs similar function to antiseize in terms of corrosion prevention. Note that those bolts really aren't really corroded anyway.

Wire brush/pick will work fine, or get the appropriately sized die and run that bolt through and it'll clean up the threads great.

 

[Odyssey USA]

I don’t know if I’d want to reuse the bolts with too much heat being put into them, chewed up, or what not. I’d also prefer to chase the threads to clean out and possible remaining thread locker.

Maybe it’s just past based paranoia. lol

 

[azjl#3]

can't say enough for an inductive heat tool, only puts heat on metal bolt. Mine came off easy-ish. This after trying the 1/4 turn lose, 1/4 turn tight, 1/2 turn loose, repeat. Was making to much chatter as if ready to snap the bolt. Inductive heater no brainer, not cheap, I have already used it on three other things.

https://www.amazon.com/EMAGIH-Repai...cphy=1013502&hvtargid=pla-2281435180298&psc=1

go slow, dont let it run continually, i did 10 second on cycles then touched bolt for temp. I did my body bolts on a 25 deg day.

 

[Deleted User 38384]

I don’t know how I would spray them, I only have access to the head and they’re upside down so the liquid wouldn’t penetrate up to get to the threads.

I have so,e pb blaster I just lubed my garage door with, it’s silicone lube meant for garage doors so I’d probably need to get a general purpose.

I had the same issue with my sway bar bolts. The only access I had to them was through the head. But I still sprayed the head, and even though there wasn't really a gap there, I tried to spray between the sway bar mounting bracket And where detaches to the frame, and thankfully it actually did the trick. Turns out the penetrating oil does a really good job at penetrating small non-existent spaces!

I ended up stealing your photo from above, you got plenty of places you can spray it, where it will eventually get to the threads. It is penetrating oil after all...

Each space where there is even seemingly a non-existent gap, the penetrating oil will get through. I've circled all of the points where you should be spraying.

You actually have a lot more places to spray yours to get through to the bolt than I did with my sway bar.

Like I said above, what have you got to lose?

If I were you I would go for it, but it's up to you how much time you want to spend cranking these bolts off.

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