Bilstein shock choice

[dlong1119]

Trying to get a quick answer to take advantage of the Northridge sale on Bilstein shocks before it ends today....

I'm debating on the 1.5-3" lift option or the 3-4" lift option on a set of Bilstein 5100s for my 2021 Sahara 4xe. Planning on either a 1.5" or 2.5" Clayton Overland or comparable MetalCloak lift to complement the 35's that are being installed on Friday. Being somewhat new to the Jeep suspension mods (but have been doing a lot of reading), I'm pretty sure that those lift numbers are typically based from the change to a Rubicon which would already be .75-1" taller than my Sahara. Is that correct?

If my assumption above is correct, then that 2.5" lift would actually equal a 3.5" lift in my case, pushing me into needing the longer shocks, right? Would I be okay running the 3-4" shocks for now with the 1.5" lift, that way if I decide to move it up a 2.5" lift to clear 37s I can keep the same shocks?

My use is 99% street driven at the moment. I may eventually get into some off-roading as time and life allows, but the tires and lift now are a must for me so don't try to talk me out of them, lol!

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[CBIRD]

Get Bilstein 8100s. MUCH better shocks!

 

[LCW]

5100s are road shocks. I got a set. Not that happy with them. Too firm on small bumps. Got some Fox 2.0s on order since Northridge had a sale earlier this week.

 

[Roky]

Trying to get a quick answer to take advantage of the Northridge sale on Bilstein shocks before it ends today....

I'm debating on the 1.5-3" lift option or the 3-4" lift option on a set of Bilstein 5100s for my 2021 Sahara 4xe. Planning on either a 1.5" or 2.5" Clayton Overland or comparable MetalCloak lift to complement the 35's that are being installed on Friday. Being somewhat new to the Jeep suspension mods (but have been doing a lot of reading), I'm pretty sure that those lift numbers are typically based from the change to a Rubicon which would already be .75-1" taller than my Sahara. Is that correct?

If my assumption above is correct, then that 2.5" lift would actually equal a 3.5" lift in my case, pushing me into needing the longer shocks, right? Would I be okay running the 3-4" shocks for now with the 1.5" lift, that way if I decide to move it up a 2.5" lift to clear 37s I can keep the same shocks?

My use is 99% street driven at the moment. I may eventually get into some off-roading as time and life allows, but the tires and lift now are a must for me so don't try to talk me out of them, lol!

You can run the 3-4” shocks with your 1.5” lift… your up travel will be a little less than optimal, but if you’re 99% on road then it’s not an issue… As long as you cycle the suspension to get the proper bump stop to keep the shock from bottoming out, you’ll be fine……

 

[dlong1119]

Get Bilstein 8100s. MUCH better shocks!

Going from $352 for a set of 4 to over $500 each, I would hope so!

5100s are road shocks. I got a set. Not that happy with them. Too firm on small bumps. Got some Fox 2.0s on order since Northridge had a sale earlier this week.

I had 5100s front and rear on my F150 and was pretty happy with them, especially at the price point. Also, as I said, this is currently a 99% street driven vehicle at the moment.

You can run the 3-4” shocks with your 1.5” lift… your up travel will be a little less than optimal, but if you’re 99% on road then it’s not an issue… As long as you cycle the suspension to get the proper bump stop to keep the shock from bottoming out, you’ll be fine……

Good to know, thanks. I missed the sale last night on the shocks at Northridge so I decided to just wait and see how everything looks when the tires/wheels go on tomorrow to decide how high I want to go for now. Am I correct in the stated lifts usually being for a Rubicon, meaning I'll likely get an extra .75-1" out of them on my Sahara? It would be really great if they would put that info in their listings considering the height differences between Sport/Sahara/Rubicon trims...

 

[Slumpbuster]

I just put Bilstein 5100’s on my Jeep. Not displeased but it is definitely more firm. I would look into fox or another shock if I were to do it again.

 

[Roky]

Going from $352 for a set of 4 to over $500 each, I would hope so!

I had 5100s front and rear on my F150 and was pretty happy with them, especially at the price point. Also, as I said, this is currently a 99% street driven vehicle at the moment.

Good to know, thanks. I missed the sale last night on the shocks at Northridge so I decided to just wait and see how everything looks when the tires/wheels go on tomorrow to decide how high I want to go for now. Am I correct in the stated lifts usually being for a Rubicon, meaning I'll likely get an extra .75-1" out of them on my Sahara? It would be really great if they would put that info in their listings considering the height differences between Sport/Sahara/Rubicon trims...

Yes, most lift companies are basing their lift heights on the Rubi……some companies include the information in their description and some don’t……

 

[bumpit]

Running the 3-4" shocks will work with the 1.5" lift but you might have to run an extra inch of bumpstop to keep from bottoming them out too hard. Also keep in my they will drop further too so longer sway bar links etc possibly. The Clayton kit is a dual rate spring I think so your spring should be long enough to not unseat at full droop.

 

[dragoneggs]

Dan, call Northridge and talk to them. They are awesome to deal with. In fact I was at their Silverdale store today (I'm blessed or cursed to live only 5mi away). Great customer service on phone or in person. They will advise you on best shock for your use case and proper length.

 

[tecnic1]

I'm running 3-4 inch 5100s with a "2.5 inch" lift. I'm closer to 3-3.25 inches of lift on a JLR.

The 3-4" 5100s work great in the front as long as you either don't ever flex it out, or replace the driveshaft. With 3 inches of lift, and 2 inches of bump stop, you'll get about 4.5 inches of bump and 5.5 inches of droop.

I would go with shorter shocks in the back. I'm fighting the end links smashing into everything, and I might end up with limit straps.

5100s are pretty good shocks. They are great on the highway, and for a jeep, they handle really well. Yeah, they can be a little rough over some types of bumps, but they are really good at keeping body roll under control, and they work great off road.

Also, the 3-4 inch 5100s don't come with boots for some reason, so that's something else you have to either solve, or be OK with.

 

[JMP]

I'm running 3-4 inch 5100s with a "2.5 inch" lift. I'm closer to 3-3.25 inches of lift on a JLR.

The 3-4" 5100s work great in the front as long as you either don't ever flex it out, or replace the driveshaft. With 3 inches of lift, and 2 inches of bump stop, you'll get about 4.5 inches of bump and 5.5 inches of droop.

I would go with shorter shocks in the back. I'm fighting the end links smashing into everything, and I might end up with limit straps.

5100s are pretty good shocks. They are great on the highway, and for a jeep, they handle really well. Yeah, they can be a little rough over some types of bumps, but they are really good at keeping body roll under control, and they work great off road.

Also, the 3-4 inch 5100s don't come with boots for some reason, so that's something else you have to either solve, or be OK with.

I'm running 3-4 inch 5100s with a "2.5 inch" lift. I'm closer to 3-3.25 inches of lift on a JLR.

The 3-4" 5100s work great in the front as long as you either don't ever flex it out, or replace the driveshaft. With 3 inches of lift, and 2 inches of bump stop, you'll get about 4.5 inches of bump and 5.5 inches of droop.

I would go with shorter shocks in the back. I'm fighting the end links smashing into everything, and I might end up with limit straps.

5100s are pretty good shocks. They are great on the highway, and for a jeep, they handle really well. Yeah, they can be a little rough over some types of bumps, but they are really good at keeping body roll under control, and they work great off road.

Also, the 3-4 inch 5100s don't come with boots for some reason, so that's something else you have to either solve, or be OK with.

Were you able to solve this? Did you mean your swaybar end links?

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