37s are basically at the very limit of what I believe the Dana 44 R&P is capable of handling reliably. Yeah, you can truss, gusset and change out shafts, but you're still stuck with the 8.5" ring gear.
I don't know if 38s would turn your axle into a time bomb, but the extra inch doesn't help...
I think you'll be fine. It will take time, and you might have issues for a bit, but this seems 100% recoverable.
I would expect that a lot of the modules are at least splash resistant, and most of the issues you'll run into are shorts in the harness and switches. You might have to run through...
I do live in Colorado, and I do frequently drive to some of the highest elevation roads and trails in the country (not many actually make it to 12k), and although I don't have a boost gage, I can assure you performance loss is imperceivable at high altitude with the 2.0.
You don't need to...
I've had zero issues with my 2.0, besides the water pump inlet coming loose at 25k miles.
If you're on 37s with stock gears, it's going to drive like dog shit. I drove around town for a week on 37s and 4.10s and I hated it.
The 2.0 with 5.13s and 37s is fun AF.
My locker light ended up being a couple of things.
1: My harness was also broke. I ended up scooping a new pig tail and extending my locker harness to fix it, and because the harness was too short for my rear shocks anyway.
2: I think the magnet fell off my drain plug, got chewed up, and stuck...
Thanks!
So yeah, The Wall on Spring Creek is possibly the hardest obstacle in the Front Range in Colorado (definitely the hardest I've wheeled). You're supposed to stay to the right all the way against the tree, but it sure seems like every video I've watched where people drive that line ends...
I use a Milwaukee 1/2 mid torque. A few other people have posted the same tool I'm using.
It claims 600 ft-lbs, and that seems about right after using it for a few months.
It's done everything I've needed it to. I installed a complete lift with it.