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Bead grip vs. Beadlock wheels

roaniecowpony

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My only reservation about the bead-grip wheels is the difficulty of breaking one down on the trail. I've broke down all of my wheels with a farm jack and tire irons. But they are Icon Interlok which have a standard bead, and they put up a fight. I recently bought a small tool called a BeadBuster that might work on a bead-grip wheel. But, I know of no one that has tried it.

On the valvestem locations that Ted mentioned, I've run into it a few times now. I was fortunate that Icon did a good job on the Interlok wheels I have and they are well protected, so I run Apex Rapid Deflator Valves, which I've come to really like.
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Nokones

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I don't have any experience with the Beadgrips. I am running the Method 106 Beadlocks and I run my tires down to 10 PSI. If you go with the Beadlocks, just check the bolts at the beginning each month to ensure they're torque properly.
 
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LSJKU

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I have KMC Machete because I got a smoking deal on them. But after mounting two sets of tires on them over the last 4 years, the next time I will be looking hard at the bead grip wheels.
If you do decide on beadgrips at some point, I'll buy your Machete's, drive up the day you say "come get 'em." I wanted to go with these beadlocks on my 2018 Punk'n when I was building it. Unfortunately, life got in the way on that build, then the wheels became unavailable.

I would not run them full-time, just want a second set of wheels/tires for trips way out west. Not that I really wheel hard enough to justify beadlocks, but that wheel is/has been the cat's meow in my book.
 

LSJKU

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I run bead locks. Like for 145,000+ miles. With that said, I run the majority of trails at 12 psi. On rocks, I run anywhere from 7 to 10 psi depending on conditions. I run around 3 psi in sand dunes. I mount my tires on the bead lock wheels. It takes me approximately 45 minutes a tire. I removed the bead lock ring, and my local tire place with remove the wheel from the tire for $5 per tire. I replace the bolts each time I mount a new set of tires. The bead lock bolts that I buy cost me about $50. It cost me about $60 for balancing beads. I have mounted 5 set of tires on my wheels so far.

Mind you it is a loose price, but 5 tires dismounted =$25
Bolts $50
beads $60
The cost to just put tires on bead lock wheels for me is about $135. This does not included the cost of Monster energy drink or the fuel cost to take the tires to the local tire shop.

Time wise, by the time I take the tires off the Jeep, set up the garage to mount bead locks, lift heavy tires up on to bench and bucket, load tires, and tires and take them to the tire shop, mount the tires in the garage, air them back up and put the tires back on the Jeep, it is an ALL DAY job.

Our Jeep gets wheeled hard. The bead lock rings tell the story.



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I have mounted probably 15 sets of tires on bead lock wheels. When including my friends Jeeps. Around my area, if you can find a place to mount bead lock wheels, they charge shop rate. So it could easily run a person $150 an hour for shop rate, about an hour per tire 5 hours of labor $625 to get s set mounted. Most in my area will not do it because most bead lock wheels are not DOT approved and they do not want to bear the liability of you not maintaining the wheel set up and being exposed to lawsuits in case of an accident.

I type all of this to say if you want to run bead lock wheels, just know there is a cost and a maintenance portion that is drastically higher than bead grip wheel. Make an honest assessment as to how you will wheel/use your Jeep. In my experience, 98% of the people running bead locks on their Jeeps are not needed and are for the cool factor and not worth the extra cost of the wheel or extra work.

Bead Grip wheels are way easier. Pull into the tire shop, pay about $10 per wheel and they dismount and mount the tire, balance the tires and put them back on your Jeep with a free tire rotation. Drive away, usually in under an hour.

I have experience with the Method Bead Grip wheel. I put a set on my brother In-laws Jeep when I lifted it for him. I am not a fan of his wheel as I do not like where the valve stem is mounted as it is to exposed, to the point when he went wheeling with us in Colorado that I bought valve stems that could be replaced with out pulling the tire off the bead. Whoever is the engineer that designed these wheel and the idiot that approved them to go production is stupid. Not dumb, they should know better than to leave the valve stem that close to the edge of the wheel. Or they know their wheel is only going to be used for mall crawling or quick runs to Starbucks.
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In conclusion, I like the bead grip style wheels and I think that even in my application they would be fine for 99% of the things I wheel.
Great writeup! Thanks for the details.

I wanted to order my new JL with the Mopar beadlocks. I thought, ok, $400 per wheel, done deal. But they didn't come with the true beadlock trim rings. Those were another $400 per ring (with bolts, of course). And with all the maintenance you detailed in mind, I had a come-to-Jesus moment and said "nope." Looking at the rash on your rings, I made the right decision.

That said, I really wanted to order the 709s for the reason you point out with the valve stems on the 703s. But the 709s were not available when I needed them. Plus, the 709's have replaceable rash rings. I think Method designed the 703s off the 709s to be a more affordable option. Actually, I believe the Method Engineers were pretty smart in this aspect: Most Jeep owners don't contemplate valve placement for mall hopping.
 

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My only reservation about the bead-grip wheels is the difficulty of breaking one down on the trail. I've broke down all of my wheels with a farm jack and tire irons. But they are Icon Interlok which have a standard bead, and they put up a fight. I recently bought a small tool called a BeadBuster that might work on a bead-grip wheel. But, I know of no one that has tried it.

On the valvestem locations that Ted mentioned, I've run into it a few times now. I was fortunate that Icon did a good job on the Interlok wheels I have and they are well protected, so I run Apex Rapid Deflator Valves, which I've come to really like.
Mr. Cowpoke, you got my interest up. I'm going to give these a try when I go to 37s. I went from one deflator to 4 deflators and thought I had moved up to the East Side. Once they are all set, run around the Jeep once at the trailhead screwing them on. Then run around one more time taking them off. Sure beats kneeling at each wheel waiting for it to deflate before doing the next one and... you get the point.
 

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jellis4148

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I have the KMC Tank Beadlock wheel. I usually put them at 8-10 psi. I mounted 3 sets of tires to them. I make sure to use anti-seize on the bolts. Never had an issue removing them. I have tire tools, and it takes me about an hour per wheel to dismount and mount a new tire. That's including torquing all the beadlock ring bolts. I don't feel like it's that big of a deal. I enjoy doing it. It's also a good piece of mind knowing I should have any tire issues.
 

wibornz

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My only reservation about the bead-grip wheels is the difficulty of breaking one down on the trail. I've broke down all of my wheels with a farm jack and tire irons. But they are Icon Interlok which have a standard bead, and they put up a fight. I recently bought a small tool called a BeadBuster that might work on a bead-grip wheel. But, I know of no one that has tried it.

On the valvestem locations that Ted mentioned, I've run into it a few times now. I was fortunate that Icon did a good job on the Interlok wheels I have and they are well protected, so I run Apex Rapid Deflator Valves, which I've come to really like.
I love the Apex Rapid Deflator Valves. I have been running them since the spring of 2022.
 

wibornz

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I have the KMC Tank Beadlock wheel. I usually put them at 8-10 psi. I mounted 3 sets of tires to them. I make sure to use anti-seize on the bolts. Never had an issue removing them. I have tire tools, and it takes me about an hour per wheel to dismount and mount a new tire. That's including torquing all the beadlock ring bolts. I don't feel like it's that big of a deal. I enjoy doing it. It's also a good piece of mind knowing I should have any tire issues.
I also use anti-seize on the bolts. The real question is are you able to not get anti-seize everywhere.

Jeep Wrangler JL Bead grip vs. Beadlock wheels 1759854150476-lc


I am hit and miss. I can tell you that if you spray your hands down with WD-40, you can wipe anti-seize right off.
 

jeepingib

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I also use anti-seize on the bolts. The real question is are you able to not get anti-seize everywhere.

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I am hit and miss. I can tell you that if you spray your hands down with WD-40, you can wipe anti-seize right off.
Just don't get it on your hootus...

For those that don't get the reference. Just know that you don't want it herculined...
 

LSJKU

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I have the KMC Tank Beadlock wheel. I usually put them at 8-10 psi. I mounted 3 sets of tires to them. I make sure to use anti-seize on the bolts. Never had an issue removing them. I have tire tools, and it takes me about an hour per wheel to dismount and mount a new tire. That's including torquing all the beadlock ring bolts. I don't feel like it's that big of a deal. I enjoy doing it. It's also a good piece of mind knowing I should have any tire issues.
I envision changing tires on beadlocks to be much like mowing the grass. Once you get into it, it's almost therapeutic. I used to love mowing my lawn (it was probably the beer I was consuming).
 

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roaniecowpony

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I envision changing tires on beadlocks to be much like mowing the grass. Once you get into it, it's almost therapeutic. I used to love mowing my lawn (it was probably the beer I was consuming).
I partially dismounted and mounted the tires on my Icon Interlok wheels on my front lawn, with cold libations. Therapeutic? I dunno, but I got pretty happy.
 
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Thanks for all the info. I've done the Rubicon & most of the 6's at Moab & Sand Hollow. Why I'm looking is because I lost a bead on the the "Hard Left Turn" on Milts Mile at Sand Hollow last week. Pretty sure the Bead Grips will serve my purpose.

I am not a fan of his wheel as I do not like where the valve stem is mounted as it is to exposed, to the point when he went wheeling with us in Colorado that I bought valve stems that could be replaced with out pulling the tire off the bead.
Ted, thanks for mentioning the location of the valve stem. Was that on the 703 wheels? I want to see the 709 in person before any purchase to determine if the valve stem is in a better location & that it will accept the lock on air chuck form my compressor. I will also be looking at the Apex valves. My friend just put them on & I think it took him less then 2 minutes to air down all 4 tires.
 

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Oh man, going through this debate right now. Method 709s or some kmc beadlocks.
 

Upnover

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Well decision made got the 709s at $300 a wheel. Too good of a deal.
Thanks for all the info. I've done the Rubicon & most of the 6's at Moab & Sand Hollow. Why I'm looking is because I lost a bead on the the "Hard Left Turn" on Milts Mile at Sand Hollow last week. Pretty sure the Bead Grips will serve my purpose.



Ted, thanks for mentioning the location of the valve stem. Was that on the 703 wheels? I want to see the 709 in person before any purchase to determine if the valve stem is in a better location & that it will accept the lock on air chuck form my compressor. I will also be looking at the Apex valves. My friend just put them on & I think it took him less then 2 minutes to air down all 4 tires.
Will let you know about the valves as I have the apex stems on my shelf and will check clearance with my 4 hose system for the compressor.
 
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ketelhut

ketelhut

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$300 is a good deal. Is that still available? Where?
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