AEV Borah wheels on JL

[Ratbert]

All of this is completely plausible, John. I'll be interested to see if mine get any rash in Moab this weekend. Stay tuned.

It'll all depend on the types of trails that you go on. I haven't been on the trail that you'll be doing. There's quite a variety there.

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[bumpit]

That's the primary reason that I opted to not get them. There's the thickness of the ring itself, then the bolts stick out another quarter inch or so. That's going to get hit on the trail significantly more than if they weren't there sticking out that far. Hopefully it's not a half inch overall, but I'm thinking that it might be close to that.

And, of course, when you take them off you'll very likely see that the paint on the wheel has been scratched up by the ring, especially if you're using them as intended. Was trailing with a guy yesterday that experienced that fiasco.

That's the whole point of it. You put a gouge in your protection and beadlock ring (à well as other beadlock benefits) and not the actual wheel itself. Too much damage on the rim of the wheel and your buying a new wheel and not just a ring.

For what it's worth my beadlocks have balanced anywhere from 4 to 16oz. I had a buddy put a set of beadlock on and his balanced at 2 or 3oz.

 

[mrtm1970]

I had posted also elsewhere…
AEV JK BORAH arrived the other day!

Fitting it/modifying the rear camera center post:

 

[Ratbert]

That's the whole point of it. You put a gouge in your protection and beadlock ring (à well as other beadlock benefits) and not the actual wheel itself. Too much damage on the rim of the wheel and your buying a new wheel and not just a ring.

For what it's worth my beadlocks have balanced anywhere from 4 to 16oz. I had a buddy put a set of beadlock on and his balanced at 2 or 3oz.

Understood, but the protection ring, when combined with the bolts, is so damn thick that it'll get significantly more damaged than without it. I can only imagine those bolts getting trashed to the point where removing them becomes a pain in the ass.

And, of course, it's incredibly unlikely that the wheel will be damage-free after removing the ring.

Note that a new wheel is only a little more than 2x the cost of one protection ring.

 

[bumpit]

Understood, but the protection ring, when combined with the bolts, is so damn thick that it'll get significantly more damaged than without it. I can only imagine those bolts getting trashed to the point where removing them becomes a pain in the ass.

And, of course, it's incredibly unlikely that the wheel will be damage-free after removing the ring.

Note that a new wheel is only a little more than 2x the cost of one protection ring.

The bolts are a lot stronger than you'd think I've had them grinding up against rocks and trees and the bolts are still intact. I took the borah out on 1 trip and put a gash in the rim edge that had to get grinded down before I could put the beadlock rings on. Another buddy of mine ruined 2 sets of factory wheels before he got his beadlocks. I ran plenty of normal wheels through the years and they all end up spray paint black to cover all the rock rash. If you enjoy rock crawling it's inevitable you'll trash a normal wheel

I get what your saying but that just doesn by

 

[zouch]

IMO, i'd consider a scratched up trim ring much less of a "fiasco" than a scratched up wheel.
i consider the decorative ring to be a sacrificial item that will protect the actual rim and expect it to be scratched up in normal use. and i can't imagine the ring is going to cause anywhere near as much damage to the wheel (that i never see because the ring would cover it) than rocks will.

That's the primary reason that I opted to not get them. There's the thickness of the ring itself, then the bolts stick out another quarter inch or so. That's going to get hit on the trail significantly more than if they weren't there sticking out that far. Hopefully it's not a half inch overall, but I'm thinking that it might be close to that.

And, of course, when you take them off you'll very likely see that the paint on the wheel has been scratched up by the ring, especially if you're using them as intended. Was trailing with a guy yesterday that experienced that fiasco.

 

[Bryce]

That's the primary reason that I opted to not get them. There's the thickness of the ring itself, then the bolts stick out another quarter inch or so. That's going to get hit on the trail significantly more than if they weren't there sticking out that far. Hopefully it's not a half inch overall, but I'm thinking that it might be close to that.

And, of course, when you take them off you'll very likely see that the paint on the wheel has been scratched up by the ring, especially if you're using them as intended. Was trailing with a guy yesterday that experienced that fiasco.

With 28570R17 tires, my rings and bolts were pretty well exposed and got rashed up a decent amount. The finish on the wheels under the rings held up well. Honestly, since I've repainted my rings red, what ended up on the wheels was some red paint that cleaned up easily, otherwise, they were dirty under the rings but looked new after cleaning them up. I did have 2 bolts that a socket didn't fit on well well where they had been nicked, but they were easy enough to get off with the next size up socket. They are coated in antiseize and not torqued down all that tight (but to spec). this is after about 2.5 years of running them.
I cleaned up the gouges and repainted the rings when I took them off to get the 315/70R17 BFG KO2s installed. They are much less exposed with the wider tires and after 2 mild wheeling trips, I have no rash on the rings.

 

[mrtm1970]

How they look with the plastic black screws and Gorrilla Black Lugs

 

[swang]

I have a stock 2021 JLUR and I'm considering a Clayton 1.5" Overland+ lift and 35" KO2's. I'm considering the AEV Borah wheels... anyone have experience with this combo? My Jeep is my daily driver and we regularly drive cross country from OH to Moab, Sedona, and SoCal. Moderate off roading (Easter Jeep Safari trails rated 5).

 

[Abunchahicks]

JK Borahs on 23 Sport EcoDiesel with Rubicon Flares.

 

[zouch]

what size tire?
how much lift (and what kind)?
where does it rub at full twist?
why JK (instead of JL) wheels?
why beadlock wheels if not beadlocked?

JK Borahs on 23 Sport EcoDiesel with Rubicon Flares.

JK Borahs on 23 Sport EcoDiesel with Rubicon Flares.

 

[Abunchahicks]

what size tire?
how much lift (and what kind)?
where does it rub at full twist?
why JK (instead of JL) wheels?
why beadlock wheels if not beadlocked?

Toyo 37x12.50
AEV 2.5 Dual Sport gave way more than 2.5”. Looking at shorter springs.
No rubbing at full flex
JK Borahs have a wider offset, which I like. Especially with the narrower axles and wider flares. I wish they were an inch wider and may run spacers.
I like the way they look without the rings. Most people don’t run these as beadlocks and just use the protection rings. Like the beadlock capable Jeep XR and 392 wheels.

 

[bumpit]

Toyo 37x12.50
AEV 2.5 Dual Sport gave way more than 2.5”. Looking at shorter springs.
No rubbing at full flex
JK Borahs have a wider offset, which I like. Especially with the narrower axles and wider flares. I wish they were an inch wider and may run spacers.
I like the way they look without the rings. Most people don’t run these as beadlocks and just use the protection rings. Like the beadlock capable Jeep XR and 392 wheels.

I've got jk aev borahs and a 1.75" spacer. I'll snap a pic when I get it back together.

 

[zouch]

thanks for the detail.

interesting about the JK version offset.

funny how we go for different things, eh? while i also have the Narrow axles, i was doing everything i could to keep things narrow, and one of the reasons i went with the Mopar Beadlock Compatible wheels was because they did NOT stick out as much as the AEVs. (another was the weight difference.) as it turns out, i was specifically looking to run Bead-Locked, and have been stuck running just the Trim Rings while waiting for Mopar to deliver the Lock Rings for a full year now.

FWIW, i also changed to High-Line fenders for clearance over 37s. careful measurements showed them to not be any wider than the standard (Low-line?) flares.
(i then added XR Spats to improve coverage because i don't want to be flinging stuff around, and dislike the look of 'poke'.)

Toyo 37x12.50
AEV 2.5 Dual Sport gave way more than 2.5”. Looking at shorter springs.
No rubbing at full flex
JK Borahs have a wider offset, which I like. Especially with the narrower axles and wider flares. I wish they were an inch wider and may run spacers.
I like the way they look without the rings. Most people don’t run these as beadlocks and just use the protection rings. Like the beadlock capable Jeep XR and 392 wheels.

 

[JLR_AEV]

Alright finally chose my final combination of wheels/tire com


Decided my final JL/JK wheel/tire set up. And this one is for good, I promise lol
Put the JK spec Borah's back on because(in my humble opinion) I really like the 2 dr Jeeps with wheel/tire poke. Slapped on my 37 Cooper STT Pro's after reviewing 5 different tires within the last year. STT Pros were the best overall out of the KO2's, Nittos Ridge Grapplers, and Mickey Thompsons

Specs:
37x12.5x17
white AEV Borah(JK spec) +4mm
1.5 inch lift

Wanted to share this information in case anyone was going to go with this particular set up

Thank you all for all your contribution to this thread!

Update to my update to my update to my update:

I think its obvious I have a bad case of ocd. I went from the Borah JK spec, to the JL spec, sold the JK spec, then bought the JK spec again haha.

Decided to leave off the rings and use the AEV nylon bolts and to my surprise looked decent against the white Borah's. This will be my final set up....finally....for now.

Running 37/12.5/17 Stt Pro's but may move to 37/13.5. Still mulling it over as I am going to regear to 4.88 very soon

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