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5W 30 versus 0W 20

roaniecowpony

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Again I’m not here to change people’s mind. Just stating my opinion based on my experiences in the automotive world.

In the oil world when oil temps go over 225f-230f a 30 grade is recommended. In the motorsports world a tracked 20 grade(which is rare and extreme) is kept under 200f with oil coolers. This is all based on viscosity at high temperatures and avoiding going below MOFT as much as possible.

There was a time when severe service was clearly defined in the owners manual.

Driving in extreme temperatures (above 90°F)

Stop-and-go traffic, or extended idling

Towing trailers, or carrying heavy loads

Off-road driving or driving in dusty conditions

Track use
I also believe my uses are severe service. I have 37" tires, operate in very dusty conditions, sometimes very hot conditions, loaded heavily, long grades, etc. That's another reason why I do OCIs between 2000-3000 miles instead of following the owner's manual intervals.
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Nokones

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I think people switching to higher viscosity are saying there is something wrong with the 3.6 and that they are changing the only things that they have control over to crutch the problem up. Lowering the oil operating temperature and increasing the selected grade of oil provides an increase in film strength. If you're trying to convince anyone 0w20 is the best oil for lubrication qualities in this engine, you're swimming upstream.
I'm not trying to convince anyone. I'm just rolling with the real professional SMEs and they are not on this forum.

In the attachment you posted from Shell, it was stated that Shell and the OEM Engineers collaborated on what was best for the engines the OEM were producing.

With that being said, I find that the aforementioned fact being very credible, and anything said by the JL Forum Oil Experts is nowhere near being credible based on the fact that none of them are Professional SMEs and don't possess E & E to state what is the true cause of the failure of the 3.6L Engine and they should stop spreading misinformation.

If a forum member wants to express their opinion that is fine and is their right. It would be best that they do their due diligence verifying that any information posted is factual and not inaccurate information.

I guess that just goes with the Internet and Forum territories, fake SMEs.
 

roaniecowpony

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I'm not trying to convince anyone. I'm just rolling with the real professional SMEs and they are not on this forum.

In the attachment you posted from Shell, it was stated that Shell and the OEM Engineers collaborated on what was best for the engines the OEM were producing.

With that being said, I find that the aforementioned fact being very credible, and anything said by the JL Forum Oil Experts is nowhere near being credible based on the fact that none of them are Professional SMEs and don't possess E & E to state what is the true cause of the failure of the 3.6L Engine and they should stop spreading misinformation.

If a forum member wants to express their opinion that is fine and is their right. It would be best that they do their due diligence verifying that any information posted is factual and not inaccurate information.

I guess that just goes with the Internet and Forum territories, fake SMEs.
If you are familiar with engineering design of products, you know that selection of certain aspects of the design are not always as simple as "the best". For example; the oil filter housing design and material selection.

In today's environment with pressures to produce low fuel consumption vehicles, virtually every lubricant on the vehicle has been pressured to go to lower viscosity. Manual transmissions and differentials that used to run heavy gear oils are now specified for low viscosity oils. Hypoid gear oil let my old GM car axle go half a million miles on one change.

So, you have to define "best" before making absolutes about fluid choice.
 

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Jeep Junkie

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Order 3 x jugs of PUP 0w20 and 3 X jugs of PUP 5w30 from Walmart. Save the receipts. Return the 3 x jugs of PUP 0w20. Wink wink. PM me if you need PUP 0w20 receipts 😃👍

20241214_090615.jpg
Guys, no more PM please. I shared my last PUP 0W-20 receipt 😃👍
 

Jeep Junkie

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I'm just trying to understand what do you define "severe service" when you stated that your oil temp is well within the normal operating oil temp range for the 3.6L which is 230-260 degrees. Being off-road or on-road won't make a difference if the engine is operating in the normal oil temp range.
Because the thickest 0W-20 is 9.0 thick at 212 degrees; PP is 8.4, PUP is 8.8. At 248 degrees God knows what it will become, pee will be thicker than that thing at 248 degrees.
 

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F4Flyer

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5W30 seems to be better/quieter for the 3.6 and what it was designed for. The first several years (I had a 2012 and a 2015) called for 5W30 on the oil cap and manual. Not sure when the OW20 change was made but it was fro CAFE requirements across the lineup...basically for better fuel mileage.
 

jadmt

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5W30 seems to be better/quieter for the 3.6 and what it was designed for. The first several years (I had a 2012 and a 2015) called for 5W30 on the oil cap and manual. Not sure when the OW20 change was made but it was fro CAFE requirements across the lineup...basically for better fuel mileage.
Pretty sure 2013 thru 2018 jk’s called for 5w20. I had a 2013,2014,2016, and 2018 jk and owners manuals all said 5w20
 

azjl#3

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To be clear, the cam problems aren’t related to oil or viscosity. Metallurgy is to blame. My viscosity decisions are based on oil temperatures and tribology.
This, 1,000%, metallurgy=poor, design=poor, manufacturing=poor, testing=worse than poor.

IMO, you could run any oil and it would be fine, if it was designed right.
 

LukeDagny

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This, 1,000%, metallurgy=poor, design=poor, manufacturing=poor, testing=worse than poor.

IMO, you could run any oil and it would be fine, if it was designed right.
I once owned a European brand automobile that had cams that were poorly heat treated. A class action suit repaired most of them, except mine. I had to pay out of pocket.

Poor metallurgy/manufacturing from Jeep makes a lot of sense to me. Some owners drive a bazillion miles without a problem, while others have the cam issue at low mileage. It doesn't seem to matter what year of manufacturing.

It much cheaper for Stellantis to deny any problem.
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