3.6 l Engine Oil Type

[18BlackJLRU]

I just made my 1st oil change at the dealer today and they put 0W20 Synthetic oil in my Rubicon 3.6 l engine.

I argued with them that according to the Owners Manual, its only the 2.0 l engine that required the Synthetic oil... not the 3.6 l engine.

They told me that the 0W20 grade was only in Synthetic blend... Is that true?

To me according to my owner’s manual, my 3.6 l Rubicon engine should only required regular dinosaurs oil ! Am I wrong ?

Thanks,
Daniel.

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[Gorilla57]

I have yet to come across a 0W20 oil that is NOT at least synthetic blend. So, they are right......this time.....

 

[WXman]

Notice it says "recommended", not "required".

A quality 5W30 full synthetic will be far healthier for either engine, if you plan to keep it long term.

 

[VNT]

Yes, the 0W-20 is sythetic Pennzoil Platinum. Why would you want to put Dino in it, also you get 4 oil changes.


I intend to run xw-30 Synthetic in mine, prefer a higher viscosity in the summer and it is put away in the winter..

 

[dsgrey]

I've run full synthetic 0w20 in various 4 and 6 cylinder motors since 2002 in Texas weather. This included my kids cars and they're all grown now. Never had a problem and two of them have kept some of the earlier cars which now have almost 200k miles each. I've got a jug of Pennzoil Platinum ready for the JLU.

 

[multicam]

Notice it says "recommended", not "required".

A quality 5W30 full synthetic will be far healthier for either engine, if you plan to keep it long term.

I plan to keep my Jeep long-term (3.6L here).

What does “far healthier” mean? To me that statement reads that with 0W-20 I’m looking at engine failure before 200k miles whereas with 5W30 I’ll last over 300k. To me that’s what “far healthier” means.

Is that the level of difference that you mean? Or less dramatic than that? Also, what are you basing this on?

My tendency is to use the manufacturer-recommended weight. I can be convinced to use something different though. Money isn’t an issue; $25 vs $45 every 5,000 miles means nothing to me.

 

[WXman]

I plan to keep my Jeep long-term (3.6L here).

What does “far healthier” mean? To me that statement reads that with 0W-20 I’m looking at engine failure before 200k miles whereas with 5W30 I’ll last over 300k. To me that’s what “far healthier” means.

Is that the level of difference that you mean? Or less dramatic than that? Also, what are you basing this on?

My tendency is to use the manufacturer-recommended weight. I can be convinced to use something different though. Money isn’t an issue; $25 vs $45 every 5,000 miles means nothing to me.

No specific meaning in terms of numbers. And it would be difficult to compare due to lots of variables. But my only meaning was just to point out that, in general, lower viscosity oils like 0W20 have been shown through oil analysis to allow more wear than a 5W30, all other things equal.

The thinner oils today are being specified for CAFE requirements and to maximize EPA test results, thereby increasing the automakers' profits. We've discussed this at length in tons of oil threads.

Bottom line is both oils will work, but 5w30 synthetic will net the best odds of a long engine life, which is why the 3.6L originally was spec'd with it.

 

[Kluk Ztopolovky]

My dealer filled the engine with semi synthetic oil when doing the complimentary free oil change but I am not sure about the brand they have used .

Here I find Havoline is making a blend but I personally would just go for full synthetic instead

https://lubricants.crevier.ca/en/qc/product/havoline-high-mileage-motor-oil-sae-0w-20

 

[CarbonSteel]

Bottom line is both oils will work, but 5w30 synthetic will net the best odds of a long engine life, which is why the 3.6L originally was spec'd with it.

Note that was the Gen I 3.6L; the Gen II 3.6L (JL Series Jeeps) has only been specified to use 0W-20.

Unlike some engines which are specified to use a thinner oil in the US to comply with CAFE regulations and thicker oils elsewhere in the world, I could find no reference to thicker oil use anywhere including Europe, Australia, and the Middle East.

In essence, the Gen II engines were built for 0W-20.

 

[Jeepkh]

My recommendation would be to use the suggested oil. Extensive validation and durability testing is done on the motor with the suggested oil. That’s what it was designed for, that’s what should be used.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Pretty much says it all:

https://www.thedrive.com/news/34672...s-chrysler-pentastar-v6-is-after-626000-miles

 

[BLACKMOAB]

I’d use 0w20 in it while it’s in warranty for sure. You could run into problems if you had some kind of catastrophic engine failure during the warranty period and they could prove that the problem may have been contributed to by your not using the specified viscosity oil.

 

[_olllllllo_]

I use 0w-20 Amsoil Signature Synthetic. Watch ProjectFarm's oil tests. It is that or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Those two oils outperform the others and in some cases quite dramatically.

 

[CarbonSteel]

I use 0w-20 Amsoil Signature Synthetic. Watch ProjectFarm's oil tests. It is that or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Those two oils outperform the others and in some cases quite dramatically.

Not to get into a tree marking contest, but a few thoughts:

1. If you are not running extended OCIs (and I would not with either the 3.6 or 2.0), then Amsoil is a waste of money. It is meant for 20K+ OCIs and does nothing better than any quality full synthetic oil will for short ones.
2. In the real world, it is very difficult to state that one oil is better than another and even more difficult to prove--especially when anecdotally any oil that meets specifications will typically allow the engine to outlast the chassis.
3. Project Farm is good entertainment, but is nothing more than that. 4 ball tests in no way simulate engine environmental conditions--Dawn dishwashing liquid will perform as well as motor oil in that test, but we know what would happen if used in an engine.
4. The quality of air filter plays a significant part in engine cleanliness and durability versus oil and oil filters.
5. Choose any oil that meets specifications and rest easy in your choice, your engine will be fine.

 

[2020Sport]

Nice...I used Amsoil...not sure the brand matters.

Not to get into a tree marking contest, but a few thoughts:

1. If you are not running extended OCIs (and I would not with either the 3.6 or 2.0), then Amsoil is a waste of money. It is meant for 20K+ OCIs and does nothing better than any quality full synthetic oil will for short ones.
2. In the real world, it is very difficult to state that one oil is better than another and even more difficult to prove--especially when anecdotally any oil that meets specifications will typically allow the engine to outlast the chassis.
3. Project Farm is good entertainment, but is nothing more than that. 4 ball tests in no way simulate engine environmental conditions--Dawn dishwashing liquid will perform as well as motor oil in that test, but we know what would happen if used in an engine.

Using AMSOIL is never a waste of money. In addition to extending oil and filter change intervals, AMSOIL has been shown to improve fuel economy saving money. "AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil provided 75 percent more engine protection against horsepower loss and wear than required by the industry standard, extending the life of vital components like pistons and cams." "Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil achieved 100 percent protection against LSPI1 in the engine test required by the GM dexos1 Gen 2 specification - zero occurrences were recorded throughout five consecutive tests." "protecting the turbocharger 72 percent better than required by the GM dexos1®Gen 2 specification." It also provides 90% better protection against sludge in the Sequence VG Engine Test. Limits oil consumption with lower volatility. Easier cold starts. Allowed only 0.1% of the allowable viscosity increase in the Sequence IIIH Engine test Chrysler* 3.6L Pentastar* engine and 40% cleaner pistons than required by the standard. AMSOIL products also have the best warranty in the business. More information on the above at https://amsoilcontent.com/ams/lit/databulletins/g2880.pdf?zo=1181889 .

I'm not aware that Project Farm has performed "4 ball tests". Please provide the link. Also provide proof "Dawn dishwashing liquid will perform as well as motor oil in that test".

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