2018 jl 3.6 sludge in engine?

[gsbrockman]

Mobile 1 does not meet that specification.
Does it matter? I don’t know. But that’s a great excuse they can use for not paying for a new motor.

Might want to look again, as at least this Mobil 1 meets the MS6395 spec. Perhaps @Jl-Family can chime in if this is exactly what he put in or not.

https://www.mobil.com/en/sap/our-products/products/mobil-1-0w20


And.......this is for you as well.

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[OllieChristopher]

As usual the four-cylinder turbo guys swarm in on a 3.6 thread and spread misinformation. All we need now is the Manual transmission guys To blame his motor problems on his stupid automatic.

I have non seen this at all. The same oil can be used in any motor option made in the Wrangler lineup.

When Stellantis took over, FCA's political issue with Mobil 1 came to an end. Mobil 1 is now labeled as meeting MS6395. Of course, it has always blown that standard into the weeds, by a long shot.

How very true Dan. I'm a Mobil 1 and Motul fan from decades ago. Both lubricants have served me well for all my vehicles.

I'm very curious as to how this is going to pan out for the OP (in regards to the actual cause of sludge).

 

[Renegade]

On a Jeep Wrangler JL you have a bunch of lubrication points. Front driveshaft cardan zerk, all upper/lower control arms, track bars, tie rods, and every single moving joint. Most guys consider the OEM non serviceable. But with a needle adapter it's easy once you get the weight off the ground.

On the body you have door hinges, tailgate hinges, hood hinges/latches, freedom panels and top latches, silicone spray all rubber seals around doors/tailgate.

Are making this stuff up? There’s no lubrication point on most of the stuff you listed (including the stock front driveshaft) and petroleum products on rubber suspension bushings would actually degrade them.

 

[ekim]

On a Jeep Wrangler JL you have a bunch of lubrication points. Front driveshaft cardan zerk, all upper/lower control arms, track bars, tie rods, and every single moving joint. Most guys consider the OEM non serviceable. But with a needle adapter it's easy once you get the weight off the ground.

On the body you have door hinges, tailgate hinges, hood hinges/latches, freedom panels and top latches, silicone spray all rubber seals around doors/tailgate.

I have one on order so can't go look...

Do the grease locations mentioned have the zerk fitting that works with the needle adapter?

 

[gsbrockman]

Do the grease locations mentioned have the zerk fitting that works with the needle adapter?

A needle fitting is just that......a needle that punctures the rubber boot.

 

[OllieChristopher]

Are making this stuff up? There’s no lubrication point on most of the stuff you listed (including the stock front driveshaft) and petroleum products on rubber suspension bushings would actually degrade them.

I have been using various types of grease on rubber bushings for years with no ill effects. Last truck had over 300,000 miles on the same sway bar and leaf spring bushings. Both my 20+ year old Lexus's are on the same bushings being lubed with Lucas Marine grease every oil change.

And been using WD 40 to mount tires for almost 30 years. Of course this is entirely up to the consumer. I tend to service frequently in order to extend the life of components.

I have one on order so can't go look...

Do the grease locations mentioned have the zerk fitting that works with the needle adapter?

No most of the joints are considered "non serviceable". Kind of like modern "lifetime" transmission fluid. A needle attachment penetrates the boot or joint.

 

[mwilk012]

Yes, he does. Mobil 1 is now MS6395 certified, as I said before. Politics was the only reason it wasn't for a number of years.

Funny, whild FCA wouldn't let Mobil 1 have MS6395 certification, they did let them use it on their lower tier Supersyn oils, which were/are inferior (still good oil) to Mobil 1 oils. That's because they didn't compete with Shell's premium brands, like Pennzoil Platinum, as Mobil 1 does.

My Jeep dealership kept offering Mobil 1 with their premium oil changes in spite of lacking MS6395 labeling.

Ah, look at that, a foot in my mouth. Looks like they finally paid the extortion fee this year.

 

[mwilk012]

Good info for sure. I wonder how many customers are bringing their Wranglers back after the dealer pumps the 3.6 overfull of cheap bulk Walmart Rotella that's not approved?

If the dealer can put the right weight of oil in it, that's good enough.

 

[ekim]

No most of the joints are considered "non serviceable". Kind of like modern "lifetime" transmission fluid. A needle attachment penetrates the boot or joint.

Thanks for the details. I was thinking maybe they decided to use something like this:

 

[Hennessey17]

I drive a VW Tiguan which has a direct injection, turbocharged engine. Some of the earlier models came with a timing change tensioner that would fail and grenade the engine. VW recommended that the oil be changed every 10K miles, I'm not there was ever an official study done, but the *anecdotal* (I'm stressing it)evidence showed that those who waited til 10K miles had tensioners fail more often than those who changed it earlier. Older oil does lead to sludge buildup. I changed my oil every 7,500 miles and I'm now at 162K miles no problems... it still runs very strong and can easily go another 100K.

I'm going to do the same thing when my Wrangler is delivered... change the oil every 7,500 miles... I don't care what the manual says... I'd rather spend $70 25% more often but be safe.

I'm sure someone will reply with their own anecdotal evidence saying they change it every 10K miles and they're fine... to me it's about the percentages... something 75% likely to work still fails 25% of the time... and since our vehicles are a small sample size of 1, I'd like to keep the odds more in my favor.

 

[DanW]

I drive a VW Tiguan which has a direct injection, turbocharged engine. Some of the earlier models came with a timing change tensioner that would fail and grenade the engine. VW recommended that the oil be changed every 10K miles, I'm not there was ever an official study done, but the *anecdotal* (I'm stressing it)evidence showed that those who waited til 10K miles had tensioners fail more often than those who changed it earlier. Older oil does lead to sludge buildup. I changed my oil every 7,500 miles and I'm now at 162K miles no problems... it still runs very strong and can easily go another 100K.

I'm going to do the same thing when my Wrangler is delivered... change the oil every 7,500 miles... I don't care what the manual says... I'd rather spend $70 25% more often but be safe.

I'm sure someone will reply with their own anecdotal evidence saying they change it every 10K miles and they're fine... to me it's about the percentages... something 75% likely to work still fails 25% of the time... and since our vehicles are a small sample size of 1, I'd like to keep the odds more in my favor.

Your OLM in the Wrangler will be around 0% to 20% at 7500 miles, depending on driving variables, so it'll be close to your mark, anyway. I think I saw mine at about 10-15% at 7500 when I did a couple longer runs like that. I did one at 8,000 and I think it was at 8%. I'm doing 5k now just because it is so easy and I feel good about it.

 

[No IFS]

Why do four-cylinder people go to a 3.6 V6 thread? Seriously what’s missing in their lives. If you’re happy with your purchase why do you go looking for trouble in other forms.? I don’t. I’m very happy with my purchase. So I’m confident.

 

[DanW]

Why do four-cylinder people go to a 3.6 V6 thread? Seriously what’s missing in their lives. If you’re happy with your purchase why do you go looking for trouble in other forms.? I don’t. I’m very happy with my purchase. So I’m confident.

There's an asshole in every group, whether 2.0, 3.6, or 3.0 or even 392. And they're on every forum. Fortunately, I think this forum has far fewer than most I frequent.

But I haven't really seen this in this thread. But I'm not going back to look for them, either.

 

[Hennessey17]

Your OLM in the Wrangler will be around 0% to 20% at 7500 miles, depending on driving variables, so it'll be close to your mark, anyway. I think I saw mine at about 10-15% at 7500 when I did a couple longer runs like that. I did one at 8,000 and I think it was at 8%. I'm doing 5k now just because it is so easy and I feel good about it.

Yeah, I think the difference between doing oil changes every 7,500 miles compared to every 10K is $170 over 100k miles, so you're spending $340 per 100k for peace of mind which is less than 1% of the cost of the vehicle. I don't like to cheap out on fluids... it's one of those easy maintenance things that can't hurt.

 

[Dyolfknip74]

It's funny, I have free oil changes with a dealer I trust and I asked what the minimum kms were......10k. Lol. So, I guess I'm good.

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