They have a listing for the JL on donerightled’s website.
I saw that as well but I wanted to make sure it was a new product. I haven't heard of anyone here getting one specifically for the JL.
A month or so back, a rep from donerightled stated they would be releasing a JL specific model in the coming weeks. At that time there was no JL option on their website. Now, there is.
I can attest that the JL version is legit and works extremely well. I mentioned in an earlier post in this thread that I corresponded with the company and they sent me one of the new versions (with the power cord on the drivers side). It fits perfectly and the cable can be routed through the plastic wire cover on the rear glass, through the fiberglass top itself, and out where the wiper tube and wiring harness are - this is a super clean install if you go that route. From there you can hardwire it into the 12v supply on the driver's side. Hard wiring it into the dome light on the driver's side is more difficult than if you wired it on the passenger side, so if you want to do the dome light wiring option, I'd recommend just getting the previous non-JL version that has the wire on the passenger side. I've wired both now.
I was in the same boat - didn't like the fitment on the window. The JL version fits perfect on the rear glass and it's nice to have on a switch. I actually kept the JK version and mounted it at the very top corner of the hardtop, with the wiring on the passenger side into the dome light. The curve fit that location perfectly, I could hide the cable in the passenger corner of the hardtop along the edge of my headliner side window insert, and it's in a better location to cast light throughout the cargo area when the doors/rear gate is open. Best of both worlds.
I'm considering adding a Brawlee light inside my cab for more light but I have a quick question. I'm not electrically challenged when it comes to homes but when it comes to wiring my car I am.yes, exactly
There are 2 wires going into the cigarette lighter (in the diagram below its the "power supply). The black ground wire gets tapped into and goes to both the switch ground and the light.
The other wire gets tapped to your switch.
Then the red wire on the brawlee light gets connected to the third point on the switch.
I really like that you hooked to the dome light on the driver side. Where did you tap the dome light? At the light? Looking at the threads I see most people tapping into the dome lights on the passenger side.Just installed my Brawlee LED light and did the wiring and switch a little different. I wanted choices on how the light was operated, so I found a cheap 3/4 hole mount double throw center off switch and wired position 1 to operated the light with the dome light, position 2 to manually turn the light on and center off to disable the light. Install went well and switch looks good, I did remove the Brawlee adhesive and added my own to the opposite side so the curvature would be right for the cable to be on the drivers side.
The dome light is a bit more effort to access from the driver's side, but can be done. Attached are the wiring instructions for the JL/JLU version of the Brawlee light which shows how to get to the dome light from the driver's side. It requires removing the plastic moldings/covers on the roll cage up to the dome light itself.
For those that routed the wire into the hardtop how exactly did you do that? Did you run the line you used for fishing from the bottom up or the top down? How did you get the wires past the connectors on the top? Did you pull off the plastic surround where the wires go into the hardtop on top, if so how?Just installed mine, love this thing. SO BRIGHT. Little suggestion to everyone wiring this, you can actually very easily route the wire into the hardtop where the wiper tube goes into and fish it out where the other disconnects come out, makes for a much cleaner install without the clips and wire showing at all on the window or on the inside of the hard top. Decided to put my switch in a slightly different location than the OP so it doesn't get bumped by cargo since my switch didn't have a cover.
The black plastic surrounds (large one at the bottom and the small one at the top) both pop out easily. You can carefully use a screwdriver or better yet get some cheap plastic trim tools from HF. That will give you plenty of room to guide the cable from the top port over to the right, then down to the bottom. Removing those ports is the key, so you can get your hand in there and help fish it through. You could also use a fish tape from the bottom up, but I didn't need to on mine.
Perfect timing I was just about to work on this. Thanks!
