Brawlee light bar & key fob interference?

[Camaroboi13]

Even though I don’t have the fancy light bars, I can tell you these fobs are pretty sensitive. I can NOT lock/unlock my JT using the proximity sensor or the button on the door handle if my phone and my fob are in the same pants pocket. The second I take my phone out, everything works perfectly.

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[Deleted member 64316]

I would keep the key away from the Jeep and turn the bar on, then get in with the key and try to start it. Maybe also try locking it by pressing the button on the proximity handles if you have them.

So I checked and I do have the Bluetooth version. Tried this sequence and the proximity lock/unlock function worked fine. Jeep also started up without a hitch. Maybe try your other key fob or replace the batteries to see if that might be the issue?

 

[Terrymo]

I would keep the key away from the Jeep and turn the bar on, then get in with the key and try to start it. Maybe also try locking it by pressing the button on the proximity handles if you have them.

I kept the key away from the Jeep and in a Faraday pouch between each attempt to duplicate what you describe.

With the Brawlee light manually switched on I would remove the key from the Faraday pouch. The proximity feature while opening (and locking) the doors and starting the vehicle functioned normally.

I repeated the sequence 12 times, replacing the key in the Faraday pouch between each sequence and could not duplicate what you are describing.

My neighbors are doubting my sanity just a little bit more if anyone saw me doing this experiment.

 

[dlong1119]

@Terrymo , thank you! And sorry about potentially furthering the neighbors' doubts about you!

The fob battery was replaced about a week ago after I'd been having problems for a few days. I also used my spare fob for a few days with no change in behavior. Battery used was a brand new Energizer 2450 that I just purchased.

I did some more testing this morning and am now slightly more befuddled. In addition to the Brawlee bar, I added two small rock lights in my cargo area to light up the cave that my Hooke Road cargo shelf created and they're all tied together. I didn't mention them before because they're just little LEDs, nothing fancy. Here's the parts used and layout:

Switch
Rock Lights
Brawlee light bar

Switch in Position 1: +12V wire tapped from dome light circuit (via Brawlee directions) flows to lights
Switch in position 2: +12V wire tapped from rear power outlet flows to lights
Switch in "off" position: Brawlee bar and rock lights are off
Ground wiring is all tied to the body ground stud right by the rear power outlet
I used Deustch connectors at the rock lights and by the hardtop connector for the Brawlee bar so that everything can be easily disconnected if interior panels or the hardtop needs to come off (not likely since it's a SOT).

Results from testing this morning:

Off - Fob works fine.

Position 1, interior lights still on - Fob not detected.

Position 1, wait until lights go out - Fob works fine.

Position 1, Brawlee bar disconnected, other lights on - Fob not detected.

Position 1, lights turned on via dimmer switch - Fob not detected.

Position 2, all interior lights on - Fob works fine.

All of this seems to point to the Jeep not liking the extra current draw on the interior light circuit and rules out interference from the Brawlee Bluetooth module. There is no continuity between Positions 1 and 2 on the switch, so I see no reason a diode is needed as the switch prevents the +12V from the accessory outlet backfeeding into the dome light circuit. I'm thinking I might need to use a relay to supply power to the lights and only use the dome light circuit to trigger the relay.

Unfortunately it's not super easy to access the rock light disconnects, but I will attempt to unplug one and then both of them while leaving the Brawlee bar connected and see what happens before changing up the wiring further to help verify if too much current draw is the true cause. I'm definitely annoyed, as all of the wiring is wrapped up beautifully in Tesa tape creating a very clean harness and now I'm potentially going to have to tear into that to rework this....

 

[Terrymo]

@Terrymo , thank you! And sorry about potentially furthering the neighbors' doubts about you!

The fob battery was replaced about a week ago after I'd been having problems for a few days. I also used my spare fob for a few days with no change in behavior. Battery used was a brand new Energizer 2450 that I just purchased.

I did some more testing this morning and am now slightly more befuddled. In addition to the Brawlee bar, I added two small rock lights in my cargo area to light up the cave that my Hooke Road cargo shelf created and they're all tied together. I didn't mention them before because they're just little LEDs, nothing fancy. Here's the parts used and layout:

Switch
Rock Lights
Brawlee light bar

Switch in Position 1: +12V wire tapped from dome light circuit (via Brawlee directions) flows to lights
Switch in position 2: +12V wire tapped from rear power outlet flows to lights
Switch in "off" position: Brawlee bar and rock lights are off
Ground wiring is all tied to the body ground stud right by the rear power outlet
I used Deustch connectors at the rock lights and by the hardtop connector for the Brawlee bar so that everything can be easily disconnected if interior panels or the hardtop needs to come off (not likely since it's a SOT).

Results from testing this morning:

Off - Fob works fine.

Position 1, interior lights still on - Fob not detected.

Position 1, wait until lights go out - Fob works fine.

Position 1, Brawlee bar disconnected, other lights on - Fob not detected.

Position 1, lights turned on via dimmer switch - Fob not detected.

Position 2, all interior lights on - Fob works fine.

All of this seems to point to the Jeep not liking the extra current draw on the interior light circuit and rules out interference from the Brawlee Bluetooth module. There is no continuity between Positions 1 and 2 on the switch, so I see no reason a diode is needed as the switch prevents the +12V from the accessory outlet backfeeding into the dome light circuit. I'm thinking I might need to use a relay to supply power to the lights and only use the dome light circuit to trigger the relay.

Unfortunately it's not super easy to access the rock light disconnects, but I will attempt to unplug one and then both of them while leaving the Brawlee bar connected and see what happens before changing up the wiring further to help verify if too much current draw is the true cause. I'm definitely annoyed, as all of the wiring is wrapped up beautifully in Tesa tape creating a very clean harness and now I'm potentially going to have to tear into that to rework this....

Even though you’re frustrated you are closer to figuring it out I think. i don’t know enough to offer any suggestions. Good luck.

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