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Best Setup for RV Flat Tow

Hypalon Man

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lclewis49

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Great information here and since we just picked up our new rubicon jl I also have been researching the best way to get everything set up for flat towing. I am familiar with CoolTechLLC and Currie industries tow plate as I used both on my previous wrangler. They worked out great. Going forward with new jl and since I do not have the steel number option I am currently planning to go aftermarket as I do plan on adding a winch. It sounds like the hard rock bombers are popular choices and work well and I am leaning that way. I did consider the mopar steel number but the costs add up pretty quickly. I also utilized the smi Air Force one on my prior Jeep that I will be porting over to new jl. I see that some of you also used this and I was wondering where you mounted the control box. It seems pretty tight under the hood and have not discovered the optimum spot yet. Maybe someone can comment on where you installed theirs and photos would be great if available.
 

Hypalon Man

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image.jpeg


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lightsout

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Things are progressing well on my DIY towing project. Today I did a hookup of the tow bar, cables etc.
All components are functional, including lights and battery charger. Breakaway cable not shown.
Jeep has to go to the Dealer as I can't get the JL back to 2H from transfer case N, without violating the instructions.

20181217_140058.jpg

Unless the picture is deceiving Your set up is problematic you need to be level from receiver to jeep connection or at least withing 2" from level (3" at the outside). Otherwise it cold be a breaking disaster.
 

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Jondrew

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lightsout

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Great information here and since we just picked up our new rubicon jl I also have been researching the best way to get everything set up for flat towing. I am familiar with CoolTechLLC and Currie industries tow plate as I used both on my previous wrangler. They worked out great. Going forward with new jl and since I do not have the steel number option I am currently planning to go aftermarket as I do plan on adding a winch. It sounds like the hard rock bombers are popular choices and work well and I am leaning that way. I did consider the mopar steel number but the costs add up pretty quickly. I also utilized the smi Air Force one on my prior Jeep that I will be porting over to new jl. I see that some of you also used this and I was wondering where you mounted the control box. It seems pretty tight under the hood and have not discovered the optimum spot yet. Maybe someone can comment on where you installed theirs and photos would be great if available.
We also purchased our JL for towing...

Keep an eye on weight most Motorhome receivers have a 5000lb limit. I did not buy the Rubicon because of the added weight and my off road will be light to medium terrain so I did not need the lockers instead my Sahara has Limited Slip option. The Dana 44 axles on the Rubicon add weight. If you are pulling with a Diesel with more than a 5000lb limit you are likely OK however note most of the tow bars are rated at 6000lb. (I went with the Ready Brute at 8,000 lbs)

I have added several mods to my Sahara, I added a Bumper, winch and tow plate however I installed an Aluminum bumper which saved weight. Also added Go Rhino D-6 Sliders/boards , 2 LED light bars, I am only running KO-2 35" tires and 18x9" XD wheels, note that if you add 37"s that will add considerable weight also.

I took my Sahara to the Scale this weekend and with 3/4 fuel I was at 2.52 tons (5040lbs) and I added the Slipstream cargo security enclosure after the weighing so add another 65lbs to mine, Subtract my weight from the scale and my net towing weight with nothing in the rig and full fuel is 4950-5000lb. so with full fuel and a couple hundred extra for the Rubicon you will be several hundred or more especially if you go steel bumpers ( I still plan to add a Aluminum rear bumper). My weight was with the hard top most of my towing will be with the soft top so I pick up a couple pounds.

My point is if you are running a 6K bar and a 5K receiver limit be careful how you outfit the Rubicon.

My self since I am at my tow limit and I am pulling with a Ford V10 I am adding Banks Power to the RV, this is a must for pulling this kind of weight especially here in the NW with all the hills and passes. The Banks Power will increase your torque and nearly double your 0-60mph, I also just ordered the The Five Star Programmer for the Ford V10 as this will allow you to program the RV specifically for towing and will improve shifting and performance overall these are both a must for Gas Motor homes towing near max. If you are diesel that is s different story.
 
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Hypalon Man

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Agreed. If that picture is representative, you should may need a drop down for your hitch

https://www.etrailer.com/question-174844.html
Thanks for the comments and good eyes. Thanks for your input(s).
This was a test connect more for cables, lights, battery charger and to see a worst case attempt at connecting on an uneven surface relative to the Blue Ox and Maximus gear.
I did the connection in our driveway, where the jeep and MH aren't level. If my measurements and calculations were right I needed a six inch drop, which is on. I'm headed for level ground tomorrow.
 

Jondrew

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Thanks for the comments and good eyes. Thanks for your input(s).
This was a test connect more for cables, lights, battery charger and to see a worst case attempt at connecting on an uneven surface relative to the Blue Ox and Maximus gear.
I did the connection in our driveway, where the jeep and MH aren't level. If my measurements and calculations were right I needed a six inch drop, which is on. I'm headed for level ground tomorrow.
Good luck. We’ve decided to get out of RVing for a while, so I will not be setting my jeep up for Tow. Had a 2014 CRV which was a great dingy. The jeep of course would have been better
 

Hypalon Man

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Here are some better photos on the flat. Did some towing today.

20181219_132715.jpg
20181219_132800.jpg
 

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Midwest22

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Did a test run with my JLUR this past weekend over roughly 200 miles. Everything worked out great! Attached is a photo of the hook up. Ignore the passenger tow bar extension being shorter than the drivers side. I had not yet locked them in by driving the MH forward. Ive got about a 2" rise from MH tow hitch to the Maximus-3 tow loops but Im ok with that. As long as its below 3" I feel comfortable. The JL felt great behind the MH with the exception of very minor input adjustments. On Friday Im going to dial in more caster on the JL and this should help.

All in all I'm extremely pleased with the set up! The best part is when its unhooked from the MH you can't see any of the tell tale signs of it being a toad. The breakaway switch is hidden along with the air brake line and wiring connector. Not to mention I didnt have to use one of those ugly base plates by Roadmaster or Blue Ox (sorry if I just offended your base plate).

IMG_1483.jpeg
IMG_1300.jpeg
 

Freiberger

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Did a test run with my JLUR this past weekend over roughly 200 miles. Everything worked out great! Attached is a photo of the hook up. Ignore the passenger tow bar extension being shorter than the drivers side. I had not yet locked them in by driving the MH forward. Ive got about a 2" rise from MH tow hitch to the Maximus-3 tow loops but Im ok with that. As long as its below 3" I feel comfortable. The JL felt great behind the MH with the exception of very minor input adjustments. On Friday Im going to dial in more caster on the JL and this should help.

All in all I'm extremely pleased with the set up! The best part is when its unhooked from the MH you can't see any of the tell tale signs of it being a toad. The breakaway switch is hidden along with the air brake line and wiring connector. Not to mention I didnt have to use one of those ugly base plates by Roadmaster or Blue Ox (sorry if I just offended your base plate).

IMG_1483.jpeg
IMG_1300.jpeg
Hello Scott: I have owned three previous JK models and did all the work myself installing three $300-$400 BLUE OX Baseplates on them and I am tired of doing them. Also, like you, I do not like the look of that bar hanging underneath the bumper. I just purchased my JL Rubicon today and see you also have the steel bumper group as well. A few questions if you don't mind:
Were the tow loops easy to install? I assume the bumper needs to come off and the steel skid plate cut?
How do you connect the Blue Ox Hitch to the Loops? Did you have to buy different attachments for the Hitch?
What did you do for a wiring kit for the lights?
 
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Hypalon Man

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Hello Scott: I have owned three previous JK models and did all the work myself installing three $300-$400 BLUE OX Baseplates on them and I am tired of doing them. Also, like you, I do not like the look of that bar hanging underneath the bumper. I just purchased my JL Rubicon today and see you also have the steel bumper group as well. A few questions if you don't mind:
Were the tow loops easy to install? I assume the bumper needs to come off and the steel skid plate cut?
How do you connect the Blue Ox Hitch to the Loops? Did you have to buy different attachments for the Hitch?
What did you do for a wiring kit for the lights?

I have a JL Sport and installed the Maximus 3 tow points. A little different than their Rubicon instructions, but are the same points with a little different cutting and lots of wrenching. Available in black or red.

https://maximus-3.com/jl-bumper-accessories-/jl-d-ring-loops#/

I installed all of the below:

Maximus 3 and Blue Ox both have terminations which work with their tow points.
Remove the BO tow points and add the items designed for Maximus 3 tow points.

I installed lighting using a Roadmaster Harness Kit with diodes.
Also installed a batter charger from RVi.
Brake System is RVi3.

I couldn't wait any longer to install the lights, but eventually both Hopkins and Curt Group said they will have JL Harnesses that will be more plug and play using matching plugs to the lights with built in prewired diodes. Either way the routing of wiring and install the breakaway switch takes some time, you just don't have to do the cutting and splicing of the wires to the tail light. ETrailer has a very good installation video. Follow it step by step and the lighting will work fine.

I passed on CoolTech following a review of their product and installation.

20181219_132741.jpg


20181211_130141.jpg


20181110_165903.jpg
 

jeepixel

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I have a JL Sport and installed the Maximus 3 tow points. A little different than their Rubicon instructions, but are the same points with a little different cutting and lots of wrenching. Available in black or red.

https://maximus-3.com/jl-bumper-accessories-/jl-d-ring-loops#/

I installed all of the below:

Maximus 3 and Blue Ox both have terminations which work with their tow points.
Remove the BO tow points and add the items designed for Maximus 3 tow points.

I installed lighting using a Roadmaster Harness Kit with diodes.
Also installed a batter charger from RVi.
Brake System is RVi3.

I couldn't wait any longer to install the lights, but eventually both Hopkins and Curt Group said they will have JL Harnesses that will be more plug and play using matching plugs to the lights with built in prewired diodes. Either way the routing of wiring and install the breakaway switch takes some time, you just don't have to do the cutting and splicing of the wires to the tail light. ETrailer has a very good installation video. Follow it step by step and the lighting will work fine.

I passed on CoolTech following a review of their product and installation.


-----

Greetings Dennis, first post here and I am researching how to flat tow my forthcoming 2-door Rubicon. Good to see everyone's setups and preferences - and some great looking rigs. I, too, like the cleaner look of the Maximus tow loops as opposed to the bar hanging under the bumper. My RV is a View, so very much like yours and I plan to use the RVIbrake as well.

Questions. . . you mention not liking the Cooltech wiring harness - may I ask why to help me understand the differences in options? At face value and per other posts, it looks like a relatively easy install, clean, and ready to go with the flip of a switch.

You have a Blue Ox tow bar. . . which model did you choose and why? I would actually like to use a Roadmaster tow bar, but there is no compatible adapter to connect it to the Maximus tow loops. You chose the Maximus adapters and it appears there is a BO offering, too. How did you decide on the Maximus?

Thank you for any feedback you can share on your decisions. And good luck with the transfer case / manual problem.
 

Hypalon Man

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I have a JL Sport and installed the Maximus 3 tow points. A little different than their Rubicon instructions, but are the same points with a little different cutting and lots of wrenching. Available in black or red.

https://maximus-3.com/jl-bumper-accessories-/jl-d-ring-loops#/

I installed all of the below:

Maximus 3 and Blue Ox both have terminations which work with their tow points.
Remove the BO tow points and add the items designed for Maximus 3 tow points.

I installed lighting using a Roadmaster Harness Kit with diodes.
Also installed a batter charger from RVi.
Brake System is RVi3.

I couldn't wait any longer to install the lights, but eventually both Hopkins and Curt Group said they will have JL Harnesses that will be more plug and play using matching plugs to the lights with built in prewired diodes. Either way the routing of wiring and install the breakaway switch takes some time, you just don't have to do the cutting and splicing of the wires to the tail light. ETrailer has a very good installation video. Follow it step by step and the lighting will work fine.

I passed on CoolTech following a review of their product and installation.


-----

Greetings Dennis, first post here and I am researching how to flat tow my forthcoming 2-door Rubicon. Good to see everyone's setups and preferences - and some great looking rigs. I, too, like the cleaner look of the Maximus tow loops as opposed to the bar hanging under the bumper. My RV is a View, so very much like yours and I plan to use the RVIbrake as well.

Questions. . . you mention not liking the Cooltech wiring harness - may I ask why to help me understand the differences in options? At face value and per other posts, it looks like a relatively easy install, clean, and ready to go with the flip of a switch.

You have a Blue Ox tow bar. . . which model did you choose and why? I would actually like to use a Roadmaster tow bar, but there is no compatible adapter to connect it to the Maximus tow loops. You chose the Maximus adapters and it appears there is a BO offering, too. How did you decide on the Maximus?

Thank you for any feedback you can share on your decisions. And good luck with the transfer case / manual problem.
=======================================================================================


I purchased the Blue Ox Avail BX 7420 10K pound rating tow bar. $724 free shipping.
Weight rating was in excess of what I required.
It is steel so it is a bit on the heavy side.
From what I can tell it extends just a bit more than equivalent units, making a bit more maneuverable.
I found it at a price I couldn't pass up.
Cover purchased.

We have a WGO Navion.
Required a 6 inch hitch drop to match up with our tow points. YMMV.

Maximus 3 JL Tow loops. $220
Maximus 3 adapters from Blue Ox to tow points. $194

Roadmaster Lighting System.
https://www.etrailer.com/Tow-Bar-Wiring/Jeep/JL+Wrangler/2018/RM-15267.html?vehicleid=201869126
Watch the video. It makes the installation foolproof.
CoolTech needs to do a step by step video.

Would have preferred Curt or Hopkins OEM harness connections, but they are not out yet for the JL yet. Supposed to be soon.
I considered CoolTech and read over their directions. I also watched the Roadtrek video on eTrailer.
I could be mistaken but I wanted all lights to be on simultaneously, RV and Jeep. Not sure that when you flip the switch on the CoolTech
you only get jeep lights and not both??

RVI Brake
RVI 12vdc battery charger
RVI Brake Carry Case

Let me know if you have further questions.
20181219_133408.jpg
20181219_133408.jpg
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