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Assfrow, Yokramer, and Remorseless's Circle jerk thread

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WillysMeow

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At some point you’re going to have to choose whether your goal is the best articulation that’s useful off road, or a low Jeep with big tires at the expense of capability off road, which I believe is the point of @Roky. The limits of physics and geometry seem fairly unforgiving.
Agreed. So what seems to be an optimal amount of lift without going crazy...running 35s now and maybe 37s next?
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unless you got 2 door XR springs, which I've not seen anyone actually find and install
I do. The part numbers are readily available. I also confirmed the part numbers with a fellow forum member with a stock 2 door XR Rubicon.

This is from a few years ago, moved to a slightly different setup now. But this was 2" spacers, so I know that it is exactly 2" above the stock Rubicon springs. I had upgraded LCA to Rock Krawler pro-flex, shocks were the Mopar 2.5" body Fox shocks that run kinda short from the Mopar lift. Front 17.5" compressed, 26.25" extended. Rear 19.25" compressed, 28.5" extended. Running about 1.5" bump extension in the rear, and 1.75" in front. Wheels are KMC machete beadlock with 3.5" backspace. Factory fenders gutted with AAL fender chop lights. But I kept some of the plastic inner liner for splash coverage. Full bump was good as long as the axle was evenly compressed, but under full articulation and some steering input there was a small amount of rubbing. Definitely need longer brake lines though. Damaged one from flexing it out. Since this picture I replaced the spacers with some MetalCloak coils that gave me almost another inch. which the front settled after adding the winch. Probably closer to a half to 3/4 taller than this picture. Also added a bunch of steering components. That offset and the large tires chew through stock ball joints, and steering ends.
Thanks for the additional information, that's helpful!

@Mustapha Mond Picture works now, thanks. I see Rubicon rock rails trimmed ends, removed the front right wheelwell hang down weight junk, trimmed front and rear of the rear wheelwells, cut off front fender metal braces.

What are the two long black plastic slivers and black triangular bits?
I don't remember exactly what the plastic pieces were. I think the were attached to the body at the back of the front fender openings behind the stock wheel liner.

Agreed. So what seems to be an optimal amount of lift without going crazy...running 35s now and maybe 37s next?
35s have been working great for me at stock Rubicon height. Pretty sure 37s would work fine on my setup with the 0 offset wheels.
 

yokramer

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Agreed. So what seems to be an optimal amount of lift without going crazy...running 35s now and maybe 37s next?
Is it a Rubicon? Leave it stock on 35s, for 37s 2.5". Not a Rubicon then just go to a 2.5"
 

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Thanks, I'm torn between 2.5 and 3.5 but am leaning 2.5 and can add swap springs anytime.

Is it a Rubicon? Leave it stock on 35s, for 37s 2.5". Not a Rubicon then just go to a 2.5"
2025 Willys same height (and axles minus front locker) as Rubicon but not an XR, so about 1-1.5" lower...I measured side by side at dealership and it was actually about 1.125" taller with XR.
 

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yokramer

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Thanks, I'm torn between 2.5 and 3.5 but am leaning 2.5 and can add swap springs anytime.



2025 Willys same height (and axles minus front locker) as Rubicon but not an XR, so about 1-1.5" lower...I measured side by side at dealership and it was actually about 1.125" taller with XR.
2.5" will do everything you need it to for sure.
 

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I do. The part numbers are readily available. I also confirmed the part numbers with a fellow forum member with a stock 2 door XR Rubicon.
Ah OK you bought new springs, I was thinking takeoffs since that's what most XR swaps are and was like "How the fuck did you find takeoff 2 door XR springs" since they're such a rare option.

Anyway, since that'd get you like 1.5"ish out of those springs you'd get most of the 2" of up travel the bump extension would take back, just not all of it at that height. The thing with less than 2" of bump is I'm pretty sure you'd end up having to trim into the double wall section of the tub in the rear to accommodate full stuff (even moreso with the 0 offset wheel), which I'm interpreting as being counter to your desire to avoid getting into a complicated cut (pretty sure it wouldn't be full comp cut, but the tub structure starts getting funky back there once you get out of the flat parts of the pinch seam).

Do make sure you didn't miss Dusty's update though, bump extension pic and size update:

Been a bit, and I'm nowhere near it right now. It might have been 2", but that seems tall from my memory. I re-used the factory bump on top of some square bar tube.

*edit*
683111-dd8507599c509106a12a37611c83124e.jpg


Looks like 2" after all.
 

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