Slim
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2018
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- 63
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- Location
- Tucson, AZ
- Vehicle(s)
- 2018 JLUR, 2003 Mazda Miata, 1995 Ford Bronco
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- #1
[GALLERY=media, 32]Brake Line by Slim posted Jul 17, 2018 at 9:43 AM[/GALLERY][GALLERY=media, 31]FCAs by Slim posted Jul 17, 2018 at 9:43 AM[/GALLERY]I installed the Mopar 2” Lift Kit (PN 77072395) at the end of last week. My kit has a manufacture date of 5/10/2018. I thought I would share a few observations and comments about the installation.
First, some context. This is my first Jeep. My wife and I purchased it to replace our hardy but old '95 Ford Bronco. I do my own maintenance but keep my vehicles mostly stock. The Jeep has ~160 miles on it now. The majority of those miles were put on by my wife driving it home from the dealership. To date, I have literally spent more time under this Jeep than inside it. I hope to break that trend.
Comments/Observations:
1. It took me about two days to install the lift kit. I did not want to rush it. Before that I needed to buy a jack and jack stands that were tall enough for the Jeep.
2. I had to purchase some of wrenches and sockets as they were larger or of different size than what I had. Wrenches I used: 10, 13 (qty 2), 18, 21, 24 mm. Sockets I used: 8, 10, 13, 15, 18, 21, 24 mm. Special tools: Plastic fastener removal tool (aka door trim removal tool), oil filter wrench (really, see below), and a 6 mm hex (Allen wrench) socket.
3. The front coil perches in the kit matched the part numbers in the PDF version of the instructions with the PDF title: JL Lift Kit MASTER FEB 2018.FH11. The front left perch part number in the printed instructions is different than the PDF version (newer).
4. The new driver's side perch PN 68342245AB (faint numbers on part) is certainly a different shape than the factory perch and, based on photos in the “Excessive bowing issue...” thread in this forum, I believe it is the new modified perch.
5. Hardest bolts to loosen: front lower control arms. Not surprising as they are torqued to 190 ft lbs. Expect to pull hard.
6. After watching a video on installing the lift, I thought removing the nuts on the sway bar links that had ball joints would require an impact wrench. Wisely, Mopar has 6 mm hex (allen wrench) holes on the end of the bolt. In steps 9 and 30, I held the bolt with a 6mm allen wrench socket driver and ratchet while I loosened the nut with a wrench. I used the same configuration to snug up the nut prior to the final torquing in steps 40 and 50. Trivial.
7. The wire connectors are easier to remove than other connectors I have dealt with. Find the tab on the connector (white on mine) and slide it back away from junction. I think there are two detents, so if the connector does not easily come off after the tab as been slide back, try sliding the tab some more. I could slide one of the tabs with a finger nail. Another one I had to use a small flat screwdriver.
8. Be careful removing the plastic fastner shown in the middle of image 13. I broke mine and had to glue it back on during assembly.
9. I was a little nervous about lowering the axles far enough so that the new coils could be installed. I was worried about the U-joints of the drive lines binding but it didn't seem to be problem. It just looked extreme.
10. Tightening the front bumper pads in step 28 became a challenge. It was difficult to keep the bumper pad from spinning when turning the nut. The bumper pad threads had paint on them and the associated nut was likely a tension lock nut. I taped the bumper pad to protect the paint and found that my Miata oil filter wrench could grab the pad and I was off and cranking.
11. I found it easier to removing and installing the upper bolts on the rear shocks by first removing the lower back inner fender plastic covers. Three 8 mm screws each fender.
12. I could not find the Parking Brake Bracket shown in step 42. I don't think it exists on my Jeep.
13. The Parking Brake Bracket in step 43 was there and I got it off and on. It was just a little harder than other brackets due to its position.
14. Biggest pain in the butt: making sure the rubber posts on the rear upper locator collars were inserted in the alignment holes. One side at a time, I made sure that it was in place and I held it there while my wife raised the axle with the jack until the coil was holding the collar in place. Then I put the jack stand in place and claimed victory.
15. I recommend that you do step 48 after the vehicle is on the ground and all the rear control arms have been torqued. I had too move the bump stops to torque the control arm next to them. A wasted step.
16. Hardest parts to torque: Anyone? The front lower control arms at 190 ft lbs. Nothing else compares...
17. I was happy that I did not have to change out brake lines but the front brake lines are pretty tight at the full extension of the new shocks (see photo).
18. I originally thought the new front lower control arms were the same as the ones I removed. But they are indeed just slightly longer than the factory control arms and have different part numbers (see photo).
19. I did a test drive after the install. As expected, the steering wheel was not level when I drove in a straight line. I took it in for a front alignment yesterday. They adjusted the front toe-in and steering linkage. The caster was within spec but near the edge (slightly longer control arms is my guess) with no way to adjust it. The thrust angle was measured at 0.41 degrees (spec is 0 to 0.25 deg) with no way to adjust it. I will have to see if I the jeep looks like it is crabbing down the road. Since the rear upper and lower control arms were not changed, I don't know why this would change from factory values. Maybe it didn't? I saw a video on a JK where adjustable control arms can be used to reduce the thrust angle so that is something to consider.
I hope this is useful for others doing the installation.
First, some context. This is my first Jeep. My wife and I purchased it to replace our hardy but old '95 Ford Bronco. I do my own maintenance but keep my vehicles mostly stock. The Jeep has ~160 miles on it now. The majority of those miles were put on by my wife driving it home from the dealership. To date, I have literally spent more time under this Jeep than inside it. I hope to break that trend.
Comments/Observations:
1. It took me about two days to install the lift kit. I did not want to rush it. Before that I needed to buy a jack and jack stands that were tall enough for the Jeep.
2. I had to purchase some of wrenches and sockets as they were larger or of different size than what I had. Wrenches I used: 10, 13 (qty 2), 18, 21, 24 mm. Sockets I used: 8, 10, 13, 15, 18, 21, 24 mm. Special tools: Plastic fastener removal tool (aka door trim removal tool), oil filter wrench (really, see below), and a 6 mm hex (Allen wrench) socket.
3. The front coil perches in the kit matched the part numbers in the PDF version of the instructions with the PDF title: JL Lift Kit MASTER FEB 2018.FH11. The front left perch part number in the printed instructions is different than the PDF version (newer).
4. The new driver's side perch PN 68342245AB (faint numbers on part) is certainly a different shape than the factory perch and, based on photos in the “Excessive bowing issue...” thread in this forum, I believe it is the new modified perch.
5. Hardest bolts to loosen: front lower control arms. Not surprising as they are torqued to 190 ft lbs. Expect to pull hard.
6. After watching a video on installing the lift, I thought removing the nuts on the sway bar links that had ball joints would require an impact wrench. Wisely, Mopar has 6 mm hex (allen wrench) holes on the end of the bolt. In steps 9 and 30, I held the bolt with a 6mm allen wrench socket driver and ratchet while I loosened the nut with a wrench. I used the same configuration to snug up the nut prior to the final torquing in steps 40 and 50. Trivial.
7. The wire connectors are easier to remove than other connectors I have dealt with. Find the tab on the connector (white on mine) and slide it back away from junction. I think there are two detents, so if the connector does not easily come off after the tab as been slide back, try sliding the tab some more. I could slide one of the tabs with a finger nail. Another one I had to use a small flat screwdriver.
8. Be careful removing the plastic fastner shown in the middle of image 13. I broke mine and had to glue it back on during assembly.
9. I was a little nervous about lowering the axles far enough so that the new coils could be installed. I was worried about the U-joints of the drive lines binding but it didn't seem to be problem. It just looked extreme.
10. Tightening the front bumper pads in step 28 became a challenge. It was difficult to keep the bumper pad from spinning when turning the nut. The bumper pad threads had paint on them and the associated nut was likely a tension lock nut. I taped the bumper pad to protect the paint and found that my Miata oil filter wrench could grab the pad and I was off and cranking.
11. I found it easier to removing and installing the upper bolts on the rear shocks by first removing the lower back inner fender plastic covers. Three 8 mm screws each fender.
12. I could not find the Parking Brake Bracket shown in step 42. I don't think it exists on my Jeep.
13. The Parking Brake Bracket in step 43 was there and I got it off and on. It was just a little harder than other brackets due to its position.
14. Biggest pain in the butt: making sure the rubber posts on the rear upper locator collars were inserted in the alignment holes. One side at a time, I made sure that it was in place and I held it there while my wife raised the axle with the jack until the coil was holding the collar in place. Then I put the jack stand in place and claimed victory.
15. I recommend that you do step 48 after the vehicle is on the ground and all the rear control arms have been torqued. I had too move the bump stops to torque the control arm next to them. A wasted step.
16. Hardest parts to torque: Anyone? The front lower control arms at 190 ft lbs. Nothing else compares...
17. I was happy that I did not have to change out brake lines but the front brake lines are pretty tight at the full extension of the new shocks (see photo).
18. I originally thought the new front lower control arms were the same as the ones I removed. But they are indeed just slightly longer than the factory control arms and have different part numbers (see photo).
19. I did a test drive after the install. As expected, the steering wheel was not level when I drove in a straight line. I took it in for a front alignment yesterday. They adjusted the front toe-in and steering linkage. The caster was within spec but near the edge (slightly longer control arms is my guess) with no way to adjust it. The thrust angle was measured at 0.41 degrees (spec is 0 to 0.25 deg) with no way to adjust it. I will have to see if I the jeep looks like it is crabbing down the road. Since the rear upper and lower control arms were not changed, I don't know why this would change from factory values. Maybe it didn't? I saw a video on a JK where adjustable control arms can be used to reduce the thrust angle so that is something to consider.
I hope this is useful for others doing the installation.
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