2021 4cyl 2.0 Turbo OVERHEATING ISSUES

[Tifferss86]

I am a Mail lady in upper Michigan and the Wrangler is my Mail vehicle,I have a 90 mile a day route but I am having issues with it overheating. I know they run hot, I disconnected the start stop function because I didn’t want to burn through starters. I replaced the thermostat. It still gets up to the 228 mark Then I turn the heat on or turn it off, but it makes my day a lot longer and now that it’s warm out, I’m seeing these issues more frequently.
Does anyone have any knowledge about this? I’m beating my head against the wall working six days a week.
Thanks in advance!

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[Gunfighter]

If your 2.0 has etorque you won't burn through any starters. Actually the ESS doesn't hurt the starters these days much as they are built to handle the extra use.

 

[Windshieldfarmer]

Is your radiator fan working properly? At 228 your fan motor should be blowing full blast under the hood…. If it is, then you would want to make sure the radiator is fully purged of air. Even a bad radiator cap can cause problems by allowing air into what is supposed to be a closed system. I am assuming the proper antifreeze has always been used. Mixing different brands of antifreeze can cause issues…. I’m sure this is very frustrating….

 

[longfiredragon]

Does it even have enough antifreeze in it.

Would be the first thing checked unless you have other symptoms that cause you to look elsewhere.

Check both systems.

 

[Reinen]

228F coolant temp in a JL 2.0T isn't overheated. It's within the normal operating range.

It's normal to see temps hitting the 230's in stop & go traffic, up long hills and towing. I've exceeded 240F on I-70 going over Ghost Rock Summit, which is a dozen uphill miles with 80MPH speed limit with air temp over 100F. Wasn't a problem at all and as soon as I crested the summit temps went right back down to the upper 220s.

The higher temps are for emissions (everything burns cleaner) and it's why the JL requires synthetic oil which is designed to handle the higher temperatures of modern engines.

It's counterintuitive but in hot weather the JL runs cooler with the AC on. The extra airflow for the AC condenser also cools the engine coolant.

Bottom line, the JL does not have a 1900's engine, starter, coolant or oil in it. The engine is designed to run hotter, the starter is designed to handle a lot of ESS warm starts, the coolant is more resistant to boiling and the oil is designed to operate in a hotter engine and continue to lubricate through ESS Stop/Start events. You're fine.

 

[Tifferss86]

Is your radiator fan working properly? At 228 your fan motor should be blowing full blast under the hood…. If it is, then you would want to make sure the radiator is fully purged of air. Even a bad radiator cap can cause problems by allowing air into what is supposed to be a closed system. I am assuming the proper antifreeze has always been used. Mixing different brands of antifreeze can cause issues…. I’m sure this is very frustrating….

Yes the proper fluid and it is full since I just replaced the thermostat.

 

[VKSheridan]

Tiffany - When you’re getting an overheat warning light on your dash, are your cooling fans at the radiator on?

If not, turn your A/C on maximum and see if your fans now turn on.

If they still don't, check the wires that connect your fans and the respective fuse. If they do turn on, your temperature sensor might be defective.

Cheers

 

[Tifferss86]

228F coolant temp in a JL 2.0T isn't overheated. It's within the normal operating range.

It's normal to see temps hitting the 230's in stop & go traffic, up long hills and towing. I've exceeded 240F on I-70 going over Ghost Rock Summit, which is a dozen uphill miles with 80MPH speed limit with air temp over 100F. Wasn't a problem at all and as soon as I crested the summit temps went right back down to the upper 220s.

The higher temps are for emissions (everything burns cleaner) and it's why the JL requires synthetic oil which is designed to handle the higher temperatures of modern engines.

It's counterintuitive but in hot weather the JL runs cooler with the AC on. The extra airflow for the AC condenser also cools the engine coolant.

Bottom line, the JL does not have a 1900's engine, starter, coolant or oil in it. The engine is designed to run hotter, the starter is designed to handle a lot of ESS warm starts, the coolant is more resistant to boiling and the oil is designed to operate in a hotter engine and continue to lubricate through ESS Stop/Start events. You're fine.

Thank you, I figured I was just being paranoid. Which turns out I’m more than likely am I found a thread stating what temperatures everything kicks on I guess I didn’t realize how hot they really run. Thank you all for your input. It is very helpful. I appreciate your time.

 

[Philly_]

Thank you, I figured I was just being paranoid. Which turns out I’m more than likely am I found a thread stating what temperatures everything kicks on I guess I didn’t realize how hot they really run. Thank you all for your input. It is very helpful. I appreciate your time.

You’re definitely not the only one that has been worried about how hot their 2.0T runs. It shocked me the first time I looked at the oil temp off road, let alone on a summer day in Dallas.

 

[Paluss]

I disconnected the start stop function because I didn’t want to burn through starters.
Thanks in advance!

I would not worry about wearing the starter out, modern day starters are much more robust than starters in the old days. Modern starters are designed to last over 600,000 cycles (old starters around 50,000) also, start/stop is not technically a full start, so doesn't take as much energy by the starter to fire the motor back on...

 

[Bayrat]

If I'm not mistaken, a Tazer provides the option of controlling the radiator cooling fans. If you're so inclined.

 

[UnBilleted]

I would not worry about wearing the starter out, modern day starters are much more robust than starters in the old days. Modern starters are designed to last over 600,000 cycles (old starters around 50,000) also, start/stop is not technically a full start, so doesn't take as much energy by the starter to fire the motor back on...

Could you expand on that starter statement? Just curious how that works, how is it not a full start? Thanks in advance.

 

[skiptheroad]

I am a Mail lady in upper Michigan and the Wrangler is my Mail vehicle,I have a 90 mile a day route but I am having issues with it overheating. I know they run hot, I disconnected the start stop function because I didn’t want to burn through starters. I replaced the thermostat. It still gets up to the 228 mark Then I turn the heat on or turn it off, but it makes my day a lot longer and now that it’s warm out, I’m seeing these issues more frequently.
Does anyone have any knowledge about this? I’m beating my head against the wall working six days a week.
Thanks in advance!

Thank you for your service.

 

[VKSheridan]

Could you expand on that starter statement? Just curious how that works, how is it not a full start? Thanks in advance.

Unlike carburetor and port injection engines that get fuel only on the intake stroke, a direct injection engine can get fuel whenever the ECM commands it. Ditto with the spark whereas an engine with a distributor required the rotor to travel in a circle and connect the coil energization with the applicable plug.

Now imagine an engine that has a crank and cam position sensor. The ECM needs just enough rotation to confirm the position of the camshaft and pistons.

Let’s say the ECM senses Piston #1 and #4 near top dead center. A quick squirt of fuel and a spark to help push them down is executed a viola, your engine is rotating with help to overcome compression on #2 and #3 coming up. Once #2 and #3 are near injection point, the ECM injects some fuel and light’s them off. Now you have combustion powered rotation with the starter really only doing about a quarter turn of the crank.

Some engines will not inject fuel when a cylinder is in overlap to reduce potential fuel dilution in the engine oil. I believe the 2.0 start-up injection is primarily triggered by piston position and uses cam position for reference so it injects regardless of TDC or overlap.

To summarize in oversimplified terms, the only reason for the starter to rotate the engine is to confirm cam/crank position and get a cylinder into the compression stroke.

Cheers

 

[UnBilleted]

Unlike carburetor and port injection engines that get fuel only on the intake stroke, a direct injection engine can get fuel whenever the ECM commands it. Ditto with the spark whereas an engine with a distributor required the rotor to travel in a circle and connect the coil energization with the applicable plug.

Now imagine an engine that has a crank and cam position sensor. The ECM needs just enough rotation to confirm the position of the camshaft and pistons.

Let’s say the ECM senses Piston #1 and #4 near top dead center. A quick squirt of fuel and a spark to help push them down is executed a viola, your engine is rotating with help to overcome compression on #2 and #3 coming up. Once #2 and #3 are near injection point, the ECM injects some fuel and light’s them off. Now you have combustion powered rotation with the starter really only doing about a quarter turn of the crank.

Some engines will not inject fuel when a cylinder is in overlap to reduce potential fuel dilution in the engine oil. I believe the 2.0 start-up injection is primarily triggered by piston position and uses cam position for reference so it injects regardless of TDC or overlap.

To summarize in oversimplified terms, the only reason for the starter to rotate the engine is to confirm cam/crank position and get a cylinder into the compression stroke.

Cheers

Awesome! Thanks, I like learning about this kind of stuff.

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