2.0 Turbo Coolant: known (?) issues

[CaveEagle]

Just a little background. GF is a relatively new owner of a '20 Jeep Wrangler/Willys with a 2.0turbo motor. It only has ~60k miles and has been mostly trouble free since purchasing.

This past Sunday we were headed down I-75 and about an hr from home and the engine temp goes straight to ~80% (red) and she tells me the gas peddal didn't feel "normal" just before this.

$350 and 3hrs later.. We had it towed back home and I started trying to figure out what happened.

Maybe this is old news to all you veteran Jeep Forum members, but I was really shocked to find so many
"Known" cooling system issues with this model/engine combination.

What I have learned:
1) Heat from the Turbo is causing both a coolant "Y" fitting and the overflow resevoir to get brittle and crack due to relative proximity to the turbo. Even the aftermarket has already reacted to this common issue by producing a replacement all metal version of both the Y fitting and the overflow coolant tank. Go figure??
2) There is a TSB (#07-001-22) for another "known" issue were the two bolts that hold the 'Water Pump Inlet Tube' to the pump will back out and cause a catastrophic cooling system leak. The TSB show how to diagnose and recomends R&R both bolts adding LocTite and torqueing to 97inchlbs. *I will add that even getting to both of these bolts was a real PITA, let alone getting a torque wrench in there.

3) (off topic).. I was a little annoyed that Jeep cannot even engineer sun visors that stay put without the consumer being forced to pay $20 to buy some aftermarke retainers. But that was quicky solved and I moved on. But this situation is beyond absurd! I do not see ANY recall out there, using the VIN# search. This "known" failure could have easily caused a blown engine or left a customer stranded in an unsafe situation.

Does Jeep / Stelantis really just NOT care? Do they have that much customer loyalty, that they can just p1$$ on everyone that bought a 2.0turbo model?

I really wonder if their customers who are 100% loyal to dealer service received any pro-active help to prevent this?

Really makes be wonder what other "ticking time bombs" are sitting under that Jeep hood?

FWIW: In this case, I found the two water pump inlet tube bolts were loose enough that the whole flange could be move by hand. And the two bolts were loose enough to be backed out with just finger turns. *I managed to add the LocTite and re-torque both bolts. Even going through the shock tower opening to get a torque wrench on that bottom bolt. sheesh!!. For good measure, I swaped out the upper Y fitting with a metal version I found on Amazon. I will probably replace the coolant tank asap, so that doesn't burst on us next.

Hate to be so negative on my first post here.. but this seems pretty crazy..

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[ScotM]

Just a little background. GF is a relatively new owner of a '20 Jeep Wrangler/Willys with a 2.0turbo motor. It only has ~60k miles and has been mostly trouble free since purchasing.

This past Sunday we were headed down I-75 and about an hr from home and the engine temp goes straight to ~80% (red) and she tells me the gas peddal didn't feel "normal" just before this.

$350 and 3hrs later.. We had it towed back home and I started trying to figure out what happened.

Maybe this is old news to all you veteran Jeep Forum members, but I was really shocked to find so many
"Known" cooling system issues with this model/engine combination.

What I have learned:
1) Heat from the Turbo is causing both a coolant "Y" fitting and the overflow resevoir to get brittle and crack due to relative proximity to the turbo. Even the aftermarket has already reacted to this common issue by producing a replacement all metal version of both the Y fitting and the overflow coolant tank. Go figure??
2) There is a TSB (#07-001-22) for another "known" issue were the two bolts that hold the 'Water Pump Inlet Tube' to the pump will back out and cause a catastrophic cooling system leak. The TSB show how to diagnose and recomends R&R both bolts adding LocTite and torqueing to 97inchlbs. *I will add that even getting to both of these bolts was a real PITA, let alone getting a torque wrench in there.

3) (off topic).. I was a little annoyed that Jeep cannot even engineer sun visors that stay put without the consumer being forced to pay $20 to buy some aftermarke retainers. But that was quicky solved and I moved on. But this situation is beyond absurd! I do not see ANY recall out there, using the VIN# search. This "known" failure could have easily caused a blown engine or left a customer stranded in an unsafe situation.

Does Jeep / Stelantis really just NOT care? Do they have that much customer loyalty, that they can just p1$$ on everyone that bought a 2.0turbo model?

I really wonder if their customers who are 100% loyal to dealer service received any pro-active help to prevent this?

Really makes be wonder what other "ticking time bombs" are sitting under that Jeep hood?

FWIW: In this case, I found the two water pump inlet tube bolts were loose enough that the whole flange could be move by hand. And the two bolts were loose enough to be backed out with just finger turns. *I managed to add the LocTite and re-torque both bolts. Even going through the shock tower opening to get a torque wrench on that bottom bolt. sheesh!!. For good measure, I swaped out the upper Y fitting with a metal version I found on Amazon. I will probably replace the coolant tank asap, so that doesn't burst on us next.

Hate to be so negative on my first post here.. but this seems pretty crazy..

Yup, did the upper metal replacement, overflow replacement, mine already had the loctite from the factory.

 

[CaveEagle]

I think the TSB calls out 2019-2021.. So it sounds like they eventually made a correction to at least the bolts.

 

[ScotM]

You’re also going to find that the 2.0 runs hot all the time- 220-230f. A lot of folks here, including me, have installed the rpm extreme fan controller to keep the operating temperature around 195.

 

[Lil Ennis]

Just check the coolant tank and hoses for leaks regularly, and change the oil regularly and you may be surprised by the little s.o.b. Probably should look up the death wobble and tell your gf about it before it happens if you are not familiar with it.

 

[CaveEagle]

oh yeah! the gf is already hyper sensitive to the 'death wobble'... I think every time we hit a bump, she says... "is this it?"...

wtf.. how do I deal with that??

fwiw.. I did try to talk her into getting a mustang.. haha

 

[Blue Bear]

Yup, did the upper metal replacement, overflow replacement, mine already had the loctite from the factory.

Where can you find the metal Y fitting? I just installed the Mishimoto metal tank, so I am good there, but would like to complete the circle on my '23.

 

[CaveEagle]

Do you have link to the mishimoto cooland tank?


Here is the coolant Y (or T) fitting that I got on Amazon.. There is another version that is $100 more and seems to be made from machined aluminum. Seems like overkill for a daily-driver...

My only issue is that the small side hose seemed a bit loose using the factory small hose clamp. So I swapped in a stainless worm-gear style hose clamp for peace of mind.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0G64FH9FH?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

 

[CaveEagle]

WOW, $325 For their fan controller? I admit, it a nice feature.. but that is a bit price for a one trick pony. I wonder if there is any sort of a flash tuner that does more than that one thing?

You’re also going to find that the 2.0 runs hot all the time- 220-230f. A lot of folks here, including me, have installed the rpm extreme fan controller to keep the operating temperature around 195.

 

[ScotM]

WOW, $325 For their fan controller? I admit, it a nice feature.. but that is a bit price for a one trick pony. I wonder if there is any sort of a flash tuner that does more than that one thing?

Nothing else available that I’m aware of.

 

[dstevens]

It's worth getting a spare coolant outlet hose ($60, 68280800AE) and heater hose ($21, 68280784AB) since the plastic fittings can leak even when you replace the expansion tank with metal. I just carry a replacement expansion tank ($65, 68280784AB) rather than replace with aluminum because I can't bring myself to buy a pressure vessel with poorly welded corner joints. Still, plenty of people use them without a problem.

The plastic Tees are 5/8 x 5/8 x 5/8 and can be found at auto parts stores. I carry one plus some plastic versions and a 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/2 Tee as well.

 

[shadango]

There is some great info here.....

I read elsewhere that at least one person has been told that their warranty on cooling system is void because of swapping in the metal tank....

I dont get that --- it s just a holding vessel for the coolant......has the ins/outs as the stock, just metal.....

So much plastic stuff to go bad with all that turbo heat. More airflow under the hood would probably help with the heat issue ....maybe?

 

[CaveEagle]

That does sound crazy. However, if you did have some waranty issue, it wouldn't be hard to swap the plastic tank back in.

There is some great info here.....

I read elsewhere that at least one person has been told that their warranty on cooling system is void because of swapping in the metal tank....

I dont get that --- it s just a holding vessel for the coolant......has the ins/outs as the stock, just metal.....

So much plastic stuff to go bad with all that turbo heat. More airflow under the hood would probably help with the heat issue ....maybe?

 

[dmaxw]

I swapped to the Mishimoto tank, eliminated the plastic elbow under the tank, eliminated the plastic Y in front of the tank, and replaced the upper Y with a metal fitting. For some of the places I go, I really don’t want to carry a box of new plastic parts to replace a cracked plastic part. All aluminum, one and done.

 

[TrailMax]

I swapped to the Mishimoto tank, eliminated the plastic elbow under the tank, eliminated the plastic Y in front of the tank, and replaced the upper Y with a metal fitting. For some of the places I go, I really don’t want to carry a box of new plastic parts to replace a cracked plastic part. All aluminum, one and done.

Now, you do realize that we are legally required to ask for links to the replacement fittings - don't you?

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