Yet another axle strength question

[CptFloridaMan]

So I did some digging, would I need to replace my e brake cable considering the rear rubi axle? I also got brake part numbers for the rubi front brakes from Benny at allmoparparts. I think I’m definitely leaning to getting rubi axles vs building my current ones. Seems like a solid way to be more bullet proof for my 35s. If I swap the axles I’ll worry about ball joints down the road with the rubi axles. But in my estimate I’m not counting the balljoints for my stock axle that I would want done if I already have the whole thing apart.

Currently I’m not factoring steering as I’m nearing 40k miles and I started my search for balljoints and tie rods etc.

I’m at the point where I believe swapping it makes more sense than building the stock axles.

M186/M220
Eaton rear locker	$1,400
Eaton front	$1,200
Gear kit	$1,020
Labor	$1,200
Sum est	$4,820
M210/M220
Rubi front	$2,480
rubi rear	$2,115
Brakes	$900
sum est no labor	$5,495

and then for fun I got a quote from another shop, they don’t have eatons in stock for the front axle so that’s not included.

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[Rodeoflyer]

You live in FL? Those 30's trussed with moly axles and the tubes welded up on 5.38's..air lockers. You'll be the beach KING

 

[CptFloridaMan]

You live in FL? Those 30's trussed with moly axles and the tubes welded up on 5.38's..air lockers. You'll be the beach KING

Man I can't wait. Finally some real beach cred ?. Just gotta figure out how to lift it and what color powder coating to do on the axle.

 

[Rodeoflyer]

You know I'm just funning you.. I'd move back to to coast tomorrow if given the chance.

The seafood out here in the midwest sucks.

I'm from Metarie LA and these people up here don't know good fresh seafood. It's a big deal

 

[CptFloridaMan]

You know I'm just funning you.. I'd move back to to coast tomorrow if given the chance.

The seafood out here in the midwest sucks.

It's all fun here. I've been considering leaving Florida to move further up north since most of the wheeling I would wanna do is a bit out of the way. The idea of moving up to the Carolinas or Texas are very much always calling to me.

 

[Some Random Guy]

So I did some digging, would I need to replace my e brake cable considering the rear rubi axle? I also got brake part numbers for the rubi front brakes from Benny at allmoparparts. I think I’m definitely leaning to getting rubi axles vs building my current ones. Seems like a solid way to be more bullet proof for my 35s. If I swap the axles I’ll worry about ball joints down the road with the rubi axles. But in my estimate I’m not counting the balljoints for my stock axle that I would want done if I already have the whole thing apart.

Currently I’m not factoring steering as I’m nearing 40k miles and I started my search for balljoints and tie rods etc.

I’m at the point where I believe swapping it makes more sense than building the stock axles.

M186/M220
Eaton rear locker	$1,400
Eaton front	$1,200
Gear kit	$1,020
Labor	$1,200
Sum est	$4,820
M210/M220
Rubi front	$2,480
rubi rear	$2,115
Brakes	$900
sum est no labor	$5,495

and then for fun I got a quote from another shop, they don’t have eatons in stock for the front axle so that’s not included.

Re-route your parking brake cable and you won’t have an issue. I’ll try to snap a photo next time I’m under there.
Here’s my c*** up photo:

The line should go over the evap line with the red tape/marking. In my case it cracked that line pushing against it. Dealer replaced (at my cost, -_- doh!) and zip tied them out of the way to avoid damage on the way home. I then rerouted properly.

 

[Rodeoflyer]

It was mountains or coast for me when I moved up here..I never knew how much I would miss the seafood. yeah big deal for me.. I want to go to a seafood restaurant. We have red lobster Just think about that if you move.

 

[Rodeoflyer]

Re-route your parking brake cable and you won’t have an issue. I’ll try to snap a photo next time I’m under there.
Here’s my c*** up photo:

The line should go over the evap line with the red tape/marking. In my case it cracked that line pushing against it. Dealer replaced (at my cost, -_- doh!) and zip tied them out of the way to avoid damage on the way home. I then rerouted properly.

I had my local shop relocate those when I had my gears done. I wonder if that helps? I just heard it did and had them do it, removing the bracket entirely.

 

[CptFloridaMan]

Re-route your parking brake cable and you won’t have an issue. I’ll try to snap a photo next time I’m under there.
Here’s my c*** up photo:

The line should go over the evap line with the red tape/marking. In my case it cracked that line pushing against it. Dealer replaced (at my cost, -_- doh!) and zip tied them out of the way to avoid damage on the way home. I then rerouted properly.

That doesn't look too bad to then, I was just looking at the synergy bracket for it also.

It was mountains or coast for me when I moved up here..I never knew how much I would miss the seafood. yeah big deal for me.. I want to go to a seafood restaurant. We have red lobster Just think about that if you move.

As much as I hate Miami as a city. The food here is one of the few nice things that I like.

 

[Rodeoflyer]

I can imagine the culture and food is beyond reproach.. just know you'll be leaving that behind.

 

[GreenWilly]

I was planning on installing the yukon stage 4 gear set with moly axles and a torq-master locker on the front of our 22 willy's. We live in Florida but have done out of state trios and have a trip planned for Moab next year. Trying to get it ready for the trip. Does anybody have personal experience with moly axles on the m186. Has it helped? Just seems for the money I should be able to put a descent package together. $2900 vs over 7k for d44's front and rear with gears and lockers.

 

[Rodeoflyer]

All I can say is people run ALL around CO on D30's in XJ's 27 spline.. do they break on 4.88/5.13 sure. The tubes don't support the gears and the tube flex causes it. If you weld up the tubes and truss its immensely more durable. It's really about how you drive. If you go bouncing off rocks at speed then you're going to break things but I've seen D30's basically less durable than than the new spec D30 take incredible abuse if you take care. I have a buddy who bought a 2dr JL sport, upgraded to 4.88s and does everything I do no problem. No issues even w/o axle upgrades or trussing.

• 1984–1996: Dana 30, high pinion, reverse cut, 27-spline axle shafts (1989 – 1995 : with ABS used 5-297x universal joints, non-ABS had 5-260x universal joints. NP228/229 "Selec-Trac" equipped XJ models were also produced with constant-velocity joints instead of universal joints.)
• 1996–1999: Dana 30, high pinion, reverse cut, 297x/760 universal joint, 27-spline axle shafts
• 2000–2001: Dana 30, low pinion, standard cut, 297x/760 universal joint, 27-spline axle shafts

 

[CptFloridaMan]

So more math, just in parts building my stockies comes out cheaper.
I’m going to ask the shop i’m speaking to for a quote for everything and I’ll decide then. He did suggest 4.88 since 37s could be on the table once my 35s are worn. But I’m still debating on 4.56 or 4.88 now. I don’t like pinning the throttle so I should be ok assuming i’m not bouncing.

I found a couple on youtube call JL Life OFFROAD, they have a sport that was wheels pretty hard on 4.56 gears, and 37s with stock shafts on their m186/m200. They ended up bending some splines but wheel hard, and later upgraded shafts and bent a housing and then swapped axles.

And this is my current estimate minus labor.

M186/M220
Eaton rear locker	$1,400
Eaton front	$1,200
Gear kit	$1,020
Dynatrac balljoints	$600
artec truss	$250
sum	$4,470
M210/M220
Rubi front	$2,480
rubi rear	$2,115
front brakes	$900
artec truss	$250
sum	$5,745

 

[Rodeoflyer]

Yeah that JL life guy wheels HARD.. not just a every so often thing and an axle upgrade/truss would have solved that but I'm a fix it when it breaks kind of guy and I can tell you, there are HUNDREDs of hard used jeep xj's and older d30 jeeps here in CO that are fine on D30s.

If you just want to spend a lot of money have at it but it's not necessary imo.

 

[CptFloridaMan]

Yeah that JL life guy wheels HARD.. not just a every so often thing and an axle upgrade/truss would have solved that but I'm a fix it when it breaks kind of guy and I can tell you, there are HUNDREDs of hard used jeep xj's and older d30 jeeps here in CO that are fine on D30s.

If you just want to spend a lot of money have at it but it's not necessary imo.

I’m realizing they’re not super weak. Just gonna have to decide if monkey brain wants 37s in the next couple of years is all.
I think just for the peace of mind with the Cs and FAD I want a truss, just have to find out what the labor is and I’ll have the piggy bank ready in a couple of months. In parts, another $250 considering the cost of the whole thing is sort of moot.

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