XR observations

[ArmyRN]

I have a 2022 XR. When I did my research there were no misconceptions. It came with a 1.5” lift and was marketed as such. We all knew it wasn’t the Mopar 2” lift. Adding a 2.5” lift was all it really needs to make it perfect. Yes, I swapped in 2.5” coils and long travel shocks and it is perfect.

Ok; this might sound weird - true confessions....

I am a jeepaholoc. I've got a 46 Willys CJ2A, and a 98 TJ (lifted and locked with 33" tires). I decided I needed/wanted a new Jeep (plus I came into a little bit of inheritance money that'll cover about half of it). Made a deal with the wife (gotta get rid of two of my other vehicles - not any Jeeps) and a deal with the dealership. 2023 Willys 2.0 JLU XR Sting-Gray on order.

I liked the fact it comes with a lift, 35" tires, tailgate reinforcement, 4.56 gears, LEDs, HD axles, etc. Stuff I would want to do anyways if it didn't come with it. I like the rims. And I kinda promised my wife I wouldn't be doing a lot of changes to this Jeep like I did to my totally stock TJ when I first got it (she still remembers even after 15 years), so I'm glad it is coming from the factory this way.

Here's the weird part. I've yet to test drive a JLU. I sat in the seat in one at a dealer's lot once. Have yet to start one up, hear it idle, see how it drives, etc. I just knew I wanted one, and it had to be a Willys.

Initially I thought it came with the Mopar 2" lift. But knowing if it was a 1.5" or 2" lift would not have changed my mind about ordering one with the XR package. This will be more of a daily driver and a light overlanding Jeep (saving the TJ for the hard stuff).

Future modifications of significance are:

Tru-Tracs front and rear.

Maybe a pair of the Mopar 2" lift front extended LCAs.

Then consider the Dynatrac Enduro 2" lift in a year or so (unless the factory shocks crap out sooner).

Can't think of anything else right now. Phone holder - minor stuff like that.

I would like to know if there's a way to trim an inch or so off the front bump stop.

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[Jtphoto]

I would like to know if there's a way to trim an inch or so off the front bump stop.

Are you planning to do a fender chop or put put flat fenders on? If not leave the bumpstops as they are. They are appropriate for factory fenders with 35-37” r
Tires.

 

[ArmyRN]

Are you planning to do a fender chop or put put flat fenders on? If not leave the bumpstops as they are. They are appropriate for factory fenders with 35-37” r
Tires.

Nope. Nothing like that.

I wouldn't mind a true 2" tall spring instead of the factory 1.5" lift. It looks nice as-is though. My dealer has a lifetime powertrain warranty, but to keep it I have to limit lifts to 2" and no larger than 35" tires. And I'm good with that - I don't plan on wheeling this thing (that's what the TJ and 2A are for). I know Mopar has their 2" lift, but seems like folks are getting 3", 3.5", or 4" depending on who you read. I don't want it to look like the 35" tires are too small because it sits up so high.

But I would like it to ride nicely (this'll be my daily driver, mild overlander, and hopefully our trip vehicle). If the bumpstops are good for up to 37" tires and I'm limiting myself to 35" tires, my thinking is I should be able to go a little shorter on the bumpstops and not have any issues with hitting the fenders.

Nicer shocks will be in order down the road.

 

[GrayWolf.Overland]

Rubicon D44s are plenty strong unless you are recklessly bouncing over rocks and dunes with unlimited YouTube revenue budget.

A regular Rubicon can be built up with proper suspension lift and components - IMHO that will be the preferred way. You end up with better suspension and steering components which are way more important than strength of the axles.

This is one of the reasons why the XR package doesn't appeal to a lot of folks.

I run Clayton Offroad 1.5 lift, adjustable trackbars, and adjustable front LCA. There is plenty of travel on front suspension even after the longer teraflex jounce bumpstops

 

[Wheelin Matt]

I got one of the earliest XR’s in October 2021. As is it is amazing and super capable. Start adding weight to it however, and you’ll find the biggest problem with this design is that it will bottom out too easily. I’m not only talking about on the huge bump stop towers up front but the rear springs sag and bottom out with the weight that an over lander would carry.
I wheeled it all over SoCal, Moab/Utah and Colorado with the stock wheels and tires and then with aftermarket wheels and 37’s. Low center of gravity is great and it still drives amazing on and off-road.
I’ve built my XR with aluminum front bumper (only 35lbs) and Warn Evo 8S (probably around 70-80lbs). I still have the plastic rear bumper but have added aluminum oil pan/trans and T-case skid plates but the heavier 37” spare tire and a packed Jeep the rear was bottoming out on any dips or big bumps. The front rarely bottoms out, surprisingly, but if I had a steel front bumper it would probably bottom out all the time. I am wheeling it harder and harder and have decided I need more lift so that I can flex better. Recently ordered MetalCloak 3.5 Game changer, steering, rock sliders and FAD skid plate along with a Genright rear aluminum bumper to keep this Jeep light! I want to stay off the bump stops and this should get me where I want ??

 

[Jtphoto]

Nope. Nothing like that.

I wouldn't mind a true 2" tall spring instead of the factory 1.5" lift. It looks nice as-is though. My dealer has a lifetime powertrain warranty, but to keep it I have to limit lifts to 2" and no larger than 35" tires. And I'm good with that

But I would like it to ride nicely (this'll be my daily driver, mild overlander, and hopefully our trip vehicle). If the bumpstops are good for up to 37" tires and I'm limiting myself to 35" tires, my thinking is I should be able to go a little shorter on the bumpstops and not have any issues with hitting the fenders.

Nicer shocks will be in order down the road.

Well, if you put 2.5”
Lift springs in and different shocks your dealer would have no idea what you did and they CANNOT VOID YOUR POWER TRAIN WARRANTY for putting on different springs and shocks. If they are telling you otherwise they are full of crap and you may be better off finding an honest dealer.

 

[Jtphoto]

Rubicon D44s are plenty strong unless you are recklessly bouncing over rocks and dunes with unlimited YouTube revenue budget.

A regular Rubicon can be built up with proper suspension lift and components - IMHO that will be the preferred way. You end up with better suspension and steering components which are way more important than strength of the axles.

This is one of the reasons why the XR package doesn't appeal to a lot of folks.

I run Clayton Offroad 1.5 lift, adjustable trackbars, and adjustable front LCA. There is plenty of travel on front suspension even after the longer teraflex jounce bumpstops

You are not buying an XR for its lift, you buy it for the diff, the better brakes and gears which is well worth the money. Only those that have one realize this. You will not find a better front diff for less than $4k.
I run an XR with 2.5” springs and didn’t need front or rear track bars (they are different then regular Rubicon stock bars) nor did I need control arms. A simple spring and shock swap is all that is required. The only reason one would need to change control arms is if you need the extra flex of flex joints.
That being said anyone that is going to change gears, or swap out to D60s and run 40s is better off to buy a Sport in the first place rather then a Rubicon.

 

[Wicked_JL]

You are not buying an XR for its lift, you buy it for the diff, the better brakes and gears which is well worth the money. Only those that have one realize this. You will not find a better front diff for less than $4k.
I run an XR with 2.5” springs and didn’t need front or rear track bars (they are different then regular Rubicon stock bars) nor did I need control arms. A simple spring and shock swap is all that is required. The only reason one would need to change control arms is if you need the extra flex of flex joints.
That being said anyone that is going to change gears, or swap out to D60s and run 40s is better off to buy a Sport in the first place rather then a Rubicon.

So if all i do to my 23 rubicon XR is add these

Will i get maximum possible flex with what the fender, 35", stock XR shock, spring allows?? Or what would be the next limiting factor?? Sorry for the noob question by the way..

I just got my XR rubicon and so far it has done everything i want it to do offroad.. (its more capable than i am comfortable doing..) i am just trying to learn all i can about my choices to make it better in the future

 

[Jtphoto]

So if all i do to my 23 rubicon XR is add these

Will i get maximum possible flex with what the fender, 35", stock XR shock, spring allows?? Or what would be the next limiting factor?? Sorry for the noob question by the way..

I just got my XR rubicon and so far it has done everything i want it to do offroad.. (its more capable than i am comfortable doing..) i am just trying to learn all i can about my choices to make it better in the future

You don’t need hydraulic bumpstops. You already have the maximum uptravel you can without ripping off your fenders. You have as much droop as your factory shocks will give. If you want more flex buy longer shocks and that will give more droop. .
Bumpstops limit your up travel to protect your fenders. The factory bumpstops are fine exactly the way they are.

 

[Wicked_JL]

You don’t need hydraulic bumpstops. You already have the maximum uptravel you can without ripping off your fenders. You have as much droop as your factory shocks will give. If you want more flex buy longer shocks and that will give more droop. .
Bumpstops limit your up travel to protect your fenders. The factory bumpstops are fine exactly the way they are.

Thank you, i will keep that in mind

 

[Seemego4WD]

You are not buying an XR for its lift, you buy it for the diff, the better brakes and gears which is well worth the money. Only those that have one realize this. You will not find a better front diff for less than $4k.
I run an XR with 2.5” springs and didn’t need front or rear track bars (they are different then regular Rubicon stock bars) nor did I need control arms. A simple spring and shock swap is all that is required. The only reason one would need to change control arms is if you need the extra flex of flex joints.
That being said anyone that is going to change gears, or swap out to D60s and run 40s is better off to buy a Sport in the first place rather then a Rubicon.

Just wondering, which spring/shock did you go with?

 

[JLUHT]

How low is anyone airing down on the stock XR wheels before fear of rolling a tire off of a rim? I'm trying to fit in my garage for a lift install and it's gonna be close as garage-door is only 7' or so.
How much height if any can i lose by removing the hard top? Thanks in advance. A game of inches that will turn into thou$ands quickly if I can't pull this off. My driveway is too steep to jack up two wheels at a time.


Sent wife around the block in the JL aired down to 32PSI "i think i like it aired up better"
she just wants to bounce around in the Jeep

I think it handles night and day "safer" less bouncy less squirrelly aired down to 32PSI. I get that it feels less "fun" in that it's easier handling, subjective opinion maybe it handles worse this way for some?

 

[Jtphoto]

Roc

Just wondering, which spring/shock did you go with?

Rock Krawler 2.5” Triple rate coils and Metal Cloak RockSport long travel shocks. Great combination.

 

[ColoradoMike]

How low is anyone airing down on the stock XR wheels before fear of rolling a tire off of a rim? I'm trying to fit in my garage for a lift install and it's gonna be close as garage-door is only 7' or so.
How much height if any can i lose by removing the hard top? Thanks in advance. A game of inches that will turn into thou$ands quickly if I can't pull this off. My driveway is too steep to jack up two wheels at a time.


Sent wife around the block in the JL aired down to 32PSI "i think i like it aired up better"
she just wants to bounce around in the Jeep

I think it handles night and day "safer" less bouncy less squirrelly aired down to 32PSI. I get that it feels less "fun" in that it's easier handling, subjective opinion maybe it handles worse this way for some?

18 for lots of miles of slow-speed off-roading, no problems. Does that actually meaningfully reduce height? Not sure.

 

[Affroe]

I went with Rock Krawler 2.5” triple rate springs and Metal Cloak RockSport long travel shocks. Love the combination and have used it on all my JKs as well.

Do you wheel it?. Have you had any problems with front drive shaft

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