Winch install: Project Overkill

[Terrymo]

I love diy and outside the box solutions. This seems a bit like a Rube Goldberg theoretical exercise. Maybe too much of a solution in search of a problem for there to be concern over an “average user”. But if it works for you, that’s what matters.

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[YBABRAT]

I love diy and outside the box solutions. This seems a bit like a Rube Goldberg theoretical exercise. Maybe too much of a solution in search of a problem for there to be concern over an “average user”. But if it works for you, that’s what matters.

Sorry this was to be a straight forward simple circuit. I should have removed the option for an optional switch, as it became a distraction to the intent.

I tried to keep the direction,but it became two threads in one.

Yes, when I design something I tend to go through what ifs a lot. Cover the bases and unknowns. I admit I am a green horn first timer with plans on roughing it on various trails. So I have to be reliant on backup plans. I expect to use my winch on any given trail, being a novice and learning from trial and error. Not that I am a risk taker, just allowing exploration rather making a turn away for an easier trail.

I think a lot out of the box... I can move in and around changes as I see opportunity when in the middle of creation. I would share a thread to give insight to what I may do and change things around to what I complete.... all revolving around mechanical and electrical.

The main part of creating this circuit is battery and electrical. Many have had battery issues with the JL. Many don't have the heavy duty electrical system, and many will select a big powerful winch when they have no clue to its current drain and usage.

For peace of mind and insurance that if anything goes wrong with winching, I don't end up stranding myself with electrical issues and additional costs from it.

 

[Terrymo]

Warn made the first recreational winch around 1960 I believe. I would think by now with all the dumb winch users doing dumb things they would suggest something more complex if it was necessary, reduced their liability, or increased their profits. With that said, I do use their power interrupt solenoid…unnecessarily. Like I said, if it works for you, ignore me. Most people do.

 

[YBABRAT]

Warn made the first recreational winch around 1960 I believe. I would think by now with all the dumb winch users doing dumb things they would suggest something more complex if it was necessary, reduced their liability, or increased their profits. With that said, I do use their power interrupt solenoid…unnecessarily. Like I said, if it works for you, ignore me. Most people do.

Well pre 2005 vehicals were less complicated with electronics. Plus we had higher quality American made parts. Since Corona WARN is Chinese and parts are not as good as before.

I am doing this for my JL... if I had a TJ, XJ or YJ it would never be contemplated.

Even though I move in and around electronics, I prefer old school. No computer required stuff.

 

[YBABRAT]

Huh? This entire thread is about unnecessarily adding a computer.

Ha! Actually a calculator has more brain power than that. It's just a voltmeter with presets and a timer circuit for relay function. Heck it's right up there with a basic digital alarm clock.... no buzzer function though.

 

[UniqueUserName]

Correct me if I'm mistaken, but I think that solenoid is rated for 200A continuous. What is the amp rating of your winch? Mine (Warne Zeon 12) is listed as "469 Max Amp Draw" I'm not sure how long that may be sustained or what the typical sustained amp draw is (I don't see it published), but it may be pushing beyond the upper limit of your solenoid contactor duty rating...

I would think that a heavy-duty marine switch would be simpler and more "overkill" capacity-wise and rugged-wise.

 

[YBABRAT]

Correct me if I'm mistaken, but I think that solenoid is rated for 200A continuous. What is the amp rating of your winch? Mine (Warne Zeon 12) is listed as "469 Max Amp Draw" I'm not sure how long that may be sustained or what the typical sustained amp draw is (I don't see it published), but it may be pushing beyond the upper limit of your solenoid contactor duty rating...

Actually the Chinese knock offs are about that range.

The Bear contactor switch is rated 225A nominal with a 600A Peak. Those values are for live switching of power. When power is applied during contacts closing, the surface area can be as low as 70%, due to mechanical closure delay to reach 100%. closed. The ratings are for switching power, not for continuous power.

My circuit is to enable power not to deliver instantly. So the current capability is much higher for winch operation. This contactor should be as good if not better than the OEM contactor assembly on the WARN winch for dependability and durability.

My winch of choice is the WARN EVO VR10. Main reason is its current rating under rated load. It uses less current than the VR12 and performs better than the VR8.

 

[Trav73]

Correct me if I'm mistaken, but I think that solenoid is rated for 200A continuous. What is the amp rating of your winch? Mine (Warne Zeon 12) is listed as "469 Max Amp Draw" I'm not sure how long that may be sustained or what the typical sustained amp draw is (I don't see it published), but it may be pushing beyond the upper limit of your solenoid contactor duty rating...

I would think that a heavy-duty marine switch would be simpler and more "overkill" capacity-wise and rugged-wise.

Thats what I ended up using, returned the $16 Amazon switch, and purchased the Blue Sea Systems 6006. https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...-battery-or-power-cut-off.107279/post-2638748

 

[UniqueUserName]

Thats what I ended up using, returned the $16 Amazon switch, and purchased the Blue Sea Systems 6006. https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...-battery-or-power-cut-off.107279/post-2638748

That's the bracket I needed - Thanks!

 

[YBABRAT]

Made a small change to mounting the Bear contactor switch. All I need to do is install a blind metric threaded rivet. The arrow points to the hole I will oversize for the fastener. I will use a 8mm blind rivet. The JL has a hex punched out hole which I can use.

The contactor height can be adjusted by its clamp mount. I left it at stock height.

I am using an already threaded mounting hole and also added a locating hole for the bottom of the left bracket. See picture below.

The white rounded protrusion is an unused grounding stud. I may use it with an additional nut to assist the bracket's mounting.

Also the biggest obstacle in mounting is not the battery. Even though it looks like the contactor is resting on the edge of the battery. The obstacle is the wiring harness of the heavy duty elecricals. I had to pry out the Christmas tree fastener to adjust clearance.

 

[YBABRAT]

As I stated over kill is part of my plan... here is my new modded OEM battery box to fit a H8 battery.

Why re-invent the wheel when what you got will do just fine.

The block of wood is about 1/16" longer than 14".
A H8 has the same height and width dimensions as an OEM battery, but is longer. It's width is about 13-15/16". So I'll have 1/8" of play room.

As for end stop at fuse box I'll mount L brackets at the newly opened sides.

I also added a M8 threaded blind rivet in the hex hole near the ground posts, more like center of fender mounting . The new mounting location will be for my Bear contactor solenoid.

A M6 would be a direct fit, as I had to extend the sides for the larger blind rivet.

 

[YBABRAT]

Done installing my modded battery tray, with extra power and ground cables. I could have done this within 2 hrs, if I knew the fuse box mounting section was the only thing to mod. The tray its self needs no removal. If anything think of it as aux battery removal.

 

[YBABRAT]

With all the rewiring reperposing of the Aux cables to be redundant to the existing battery power, there should be no limits to current utilization.

When I install a H8 battery, i probably will need to bend the secondary positive cable tab 90° to be vertical, in stead of horizontal

 

[YBABRAT]

Here it is... a little squeeze to get passed the bracket at the front and shift the fuse box back for the positive side to drop in place. Once dropped in place, the H8 fits just right.

Measured battery state of charge and all basic specs.

My tester showed 12.93v at shelf state with over 1000 CCA and heath was rated at 100%. Charge state was rated at 95%. First off shelf battery to be this good. Usually I have to slow charge for a day to bump things at spec.

 

[YBABRAT]

I completed the ESS removal clean up and got my custom 0/1 cable to connect the bear to my H8 positive battery terminal. I may order another custom length cable for the power to winch.

I also ran a switched power wire to trigger the Bear for winch function and charging circuit protection.
I poked through the nipple at the top of the wire harness going through the firewall at the right side. Battery, fuse box, and aux battery will need removed to make the wire pass through quick and easy.

I poked through the nipple with a small skinny driver and used a stainless sipping straw to guide the wire through into the cabin. It ends up at the upper side of the kick panel, so you will need to reach and feel around the top area of the rubber boot surround of the cabin side wire harness.

The key is keeping cables short and eliminate the long ground cable return to battery.

Here my Bear contacter solenoid with the custom cable and self ground wire. When mounted body ground will make the trigger circuit functional.

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