Wheel Torque Specifications JL/JLU

[blnewt]

My F-150 is 148 ft/lbs. 130 for the JLUR with stock wheels. Looking to get the gorilla black acorn lug nuts, but don't want the locking ones. Nobody sells a set of 23 without the 5 locking ones. Guess I will have to order a set and then order 5 more at Quadratec, plus a couple of spares.

Here's a set for a Raptor but same thread pitch in a 24 pack
https://www.cjponyparts.com/gorilla...Ps_MfJJ8K0uVG0EbHgxPhSaxagEnxUWBoC068QAvD_BwE
And another on ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2652561386...fYsHD2YRvt7EZ_qV-BovhScdUuTY#vi-desc-maincntr

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[NULL POINTER]

Here's a set for a Raptor but same thread pitch in a 24 pack
https://www.cjponyparts.com/gorilla...Ps_MfJJ8K0uVG0EbHgxPhSaxagEnxUWBoC068QAvD_BwE
And another on ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2652561386...fYsHD2YRvt7EZ_qV-BovhScdUuTY#vi-desc-maincntr

Thanks for the info.

 

[Old Jeeper]

Its my guess Jeep says 130 ft lbs to make sure you put some grunt into it as very few keep a Torque wrench in the hip pocket.

In a job I held some years ago, I was a Nuclear Warhead Mech-Elec Engineer. YES I actually worked on the warhead. This how we torque assemble a Nuke.

I have book that gives the serial number and exact specs and he tells me how and in what order I torque down before I call in an inspector. I torque down and it only enough to accomplish one specific task. When done I call for an inspection. He confirms 100%. He then calls for his Inspector who has a book that tells him how many he needs to confirm, anywhere from 25%-50%.

At the end of the day I turn in my tools. Next morning I pick tools set B. I have 2 sets, A & B. My torque wrenches are calibrated every day. While I have my A set my B set is being calibrated.

Other things I learned: We inspect the threads and we clean them, we clean everything. We sprayed the bolts/nuts with a thin film of oil and then wiped it off and immediately attached it.

You need to do the same thing with lug nuts, clean both the bolt and the nut, apply a thin film*, then wipe off. This insures a clean set of threads and enough lube so as to prevent galling.

* most spray cans that you buy with a spray lube will work. Don't do grease. WD 40 is one I use if I can find the can. As long as its thin, clear, and does not leave a residue.

 

[azwjowner]

Its my guess Jeep says 130 ft lbs to make sure you put some grunt into it as very few keep a Torque wrench in the hip pocket.

In a job I held some years ago, I was a Nuclear Warhead Mech-Elec Engineer. YES I actually worked on the warhead. This how we torque assemble a Nuke.

I have book that gives the serial number and exact specs and he tells me how and in what order I torque down before I call in an inspector. I torque down and it only enough to accomplish one specific task. When done I call for an inspection. He confirms 100%. He then calls for his Inspector who has a book that tells him how many he needs to confirm, anywhere from 25%-50%.

At the end of the day I turn in my tools. Next morning I pick tools set B. I have 2 sets, A & B. My torque wrenches are calibrated every day. While I have my A set my B set is being calibrated.

Other things I learned: We inspect the threads and we clean them, we clean everything. We sprayed the bolts/nuts with a thin film of oil and then wiped it off and immediately attached it.

You need to do the same thing with lug nuts, clean both the bolt and the nut, apply a thin film*, then wipe off. This insures a clean set of threads and enough lube so as to prevent galling.

* most spray cans that you buy with a spray lube will work. Don't do grease. WD 40 is one I use if I can find the can. As long as its thin, clear, and does not leave a residue.

Very interesting. Thanks for sharing!

 

[blnewt]

Its my guess Jeep says 130 ft lbs to make sure you put some grunt into it as very few keep a Torque wrench in the hip pocket.

In a job I held some years ago, I was a Nuclear Warhead Mech-Elec Engineer. YES I actually worked on the warhead. This how we torque assemble a Nuke.

I have book that gives the serial number and exact specs and he tells me how and in what order I torque down before I call in an inspector. I torque down and it only enough to accomplish one specific task. When done I call for an inspection. He confirms 100%. He then calls for his Inspector who has a book that tells him how many he needs to confirm, anywhere from 25%-50%.

At the end of the day I turn in my tools. Next morning I pick tools set B. I have 2 sets, A & B. My torque wrenches are calibrated every day. While I have my A set my B set is being calibrated.

Other things I learned: We inspect the threads and we clean them, we clean everything. We sprayed the bolts/nuts with a thin film of oil and then wiped it off and immediately attached it.

You need to do the same thing with lug nuts, clean both the bolt and the nut, apply a thin film*, then wipe off. This insures a clean set of threads and enough lube so as to prevent galling.

* most spray cans that you buy with a spray lube will work. Don't do grease. WD 40 is one I use if I can find the can. As long as its thin, clear, and does not leave a residue.

I use copper based anti seize on my lugs, and like you mentioned, just a thin film of it. I will brush it on and use a rag to get the excess removed. I also use it on the back of the wheel, the front of the rotor mating area, back of the rotor mating area and the hub mount. Makes it 10x easier when it comes time to remove and maintains thread integrity.

 

[Old Jeeper]

I use copper based anti seize on my lugs, and like you mentioned, just a thin film of it. I will brush it on and use a rag to get the excess removed. I also use it on the back of the wheel, the front of the rotor mating area, back of the rotor mating area and the hub mount. Makes it 10x easier when it comes time to remove and maintains thread integrity.

Interesting, never used Copper in that context, but see nothing wrong at all and in maybe beneficial. Guess I need to pick some up...Thanks!

 

[Jay 13]

This may be a noob question….. but would aftermarket wheels and then needing to use spline lugs to fit said wheels lug holes ..so does a different rim and more importantly a totally different type of lug nut change the torque spec???

Fyi I went with the gorilla spline lug nuts which are much skinnier than the factory acorn lugs.

Thanks

Just some food for thought here…the same day I asked the question (above) …I had also emailed gorilla automotive.
He just got back to me this morning with this replay

??‍

 

[blnewt]

Just some food for thought here…the same day I asked the question (above) …I had also emailed gorilla automotive.
He just got back to me this morning with this replay

??‍

Wow, that's not great news
I assume they are aware of the manufacturers specs, and if so, how can they continue selling them for our vehicles?

FWIW, there are several Gorilla sets w/ that 14x1.50 thread, some are quite a bit less "substantial" than other sets, I wonder if it's one of the smaller lug nuts w/ that max 100 torque rating???

 

[smokeythecat]

It does, especially considering that the instructions that come with most aftermarket wheels spec around 90 ft/lbs. And, you have to take into consideration that if you do get a flat, you have to remove those lugs with a lug wrench. It takes a pretty good size guy to break 130 ft/lbs loose with those little lug wrenches that are included with Jeeps.

That is why I keep a breaker bar in the tool kit. I never use the included lug wrench.

 

[smokeythecat]

Just some food for thought here…the same day I asked the question (above) …I had also emailed gorilla automotive.
He just got back to me this morning with this replay

??‍

Test in progress...

I've been torquing mine to 130 for about 17,000 miles now. I'll let you know if one splits on me.

 

[Jay 13]

Wow, that's not great news
I assume they are aware of the manufacturers specs, and if so, how can they continue selling them for our vehicles?

FWIW, there are several Gorilla sets w/ that 14x1.50 thread, some are quite a bit less "substantial" than other sets, I wonder if it's one of the smaller lug nuts w/ that max 100 torque rating???

Yea I’m not exactly sure. I asked him afterwards why would it be 100 when their website states to first use vehicle manufacturer specs, than if not available to use aftermarket wheel specs…and then if both aren’t available to go by theirs..

He seemed to shy away from that question and proceeded to ask me which exact lugs I used. And as I posted here a few posts ago I showed him what I have. (This was all through email)

FWIW he came back and said he double checked with his QC department and that the ones I have can actually go between 100-120.

so take that for what you will. I just thought I’d share what their rep said

btw…nice avatar ?

Edit.. I didn’t finish the convo by telling him that they really should clarify things on their website if this is accurate information he is sharing…as many who purchase these including a lot of shops who sell their product, are under the impression to torque these to factory specs (130ft/lbs)

he said they will…but whether they do is a different story. Again I’m not stating what’s correct or not on either side….Im just relaying the info he relayed to me.

 

[blnewt]

That is why I keep a breaker bar in the tool kit. I never use the included lug wrench.

I keep a 1/2" drive cheap Harbor Freight torque wrench in my storage cubby, it works for the wheels and an emergency breaker bar

 

[blnewt]

Yea I’m not exactly sure. I asked him afterwards why would it be 100 when their website states to first use vehicle manufacturer specs, than if not available to use aftermarket wheel specs…and then if both aren’t available to go by theirs..

He seemed to shy away from that question and proceeded to ask me which exact lugs I used. And as I posted here a few posts ago I showed him what I have. (This was all through email)

FWIW he came back and said he double checked with his QC department and that the ones I have can actually go between 100-120.

so take that for what you will. I just thought I’d share what their rep said

btw…nice avatar ?

Edit.. I didn’t finish the convo by telling him that they really should clarify things on their website if this is accurate information he is sharing…as many who purchase these including a lot of shops who sell their product, are under the impression to torque these to factory specs (130ft/lbs)

he said they will…but whether they do is a different story. Again I’m not stating what’s correct or not on either side….Im just relaying the info he relayed to me.

Thanks for that follow up, and yeah hopefully my avatar can be changed to back-to-back cup champs

Seems like they are pretty vague about all this, I think I read where they bought the Gorilla company/brand not too long ago so maybe there's some communication issues during that change or they have a lot of new staff that may not be on the same page?

I'm along w/ @smokeythecat my test has been going on for about 30k miles, so far so good but I'm only using the 5 Gorilla locks. FWIW my other 4 per wheel of 6pt Amazon sockets is doing well too

 

[lashlee]

I torque to what the manual says. My car (the JLUR is my wife's daily) also uses a 14x1.5 lug and it's manual states 130 ft lbs also.

 

[Jeep Junkie]

Guys, so a 3/8 impact wrench with torque upto 450 foot pounds is good enough for these lug nuts, right?

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