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Wheel Spacers for JL

ptoemmes

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Will 1-1.5 inch spacers work with this wheel on a stock height JLU Sport S


https://www.extremeterrain.com/mamm...l-wheel-17x9-j100952-jl.html#customer_q_and_a
I suspect not as a steel wheel will not likely have any relief cuts on the mounting face to accommodate the stock studs protruding through the wheel spacer. The stock stud lengths are about 1.7” so you would have to go with 1.75” spacers.

Near as I can tell from the ET comments these are 4.75” BS, but I dunno.

Fiddle here https://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp
to see how it might fit no spacer.

I got a feelin’ a 1.75” spacer would hang the tires way outside the fenders which is fine if that’s what you are after.

As for no lift on what I guess are 35s you will compromised articulation especially if the tires are sticking out on 1.75” spacers.

But I may be misunderstanding your goal.
 

MarkBehr

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I suspect not as a steel wheel will not likely have any relief cuts on the mounting face to accommodate the stock studs protruding through the wheel spacer. The stock stud lengths are about 1.7” so you would have to go with 1.75” spacers.

Near as I can tell from the ET comments these are 4.75” BS, but I dunno.

Fiddle here https://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp
to see how it might fit no spacer.

I got a feelin’ a 1.75” spacer would hang the tires way outside the fenders which is fine if that’s what you are after.

As for no lift on what I guess are 35s you will compromised articulation especially if the tires are sticking out on 1.75” spacers.

But I may be misunderstanding your goal.
I dont intend on lifting my jeep. Keeping it stock height. I have 33s on now. I pretty much just want the wheels to stick out further than they already do. Thanks for the info.
 

elieah

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Will 1.75" spacers work with Mopar beadlock wheels? Will i have to shave the lug nuts or not?
I've had the wheels mounted with 35s for about 6 months... looking for a more aggressive look.
Thanks is advance for any feedback!
 

ptoemmes

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Will 1.75" spacers work with Mopar beadlock wheels? Will i have to shave the lug nuts or not?
I've had the wheels mounted with 35s for about 6 months... looking for a more aggressive look.
Thanks is advance for any feedback!
As long as nothing has changed since 2018 wrt to JL wheel stud lengths then 1.75" spacers will completely "cover" the stock wheel studs: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/lug-stud-length-nut-info.20389/

1.75" inch is what is shown for Synergy, Spydertrax, and others on, for example, Quadratec for JLs.

If your MOPAR beadlocks have the same sort of pockets between stud holes on the inside face of the wheel as any stock JL wheel then 1.5" will also work and most likely 1.25".
 

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mvng4wd

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For those who have added wheel spacers, have you noticed any changes in steering and handling? If yes, how so? And would spacers cause any issues when towing anything behind the JL?
I installed the Synergy spacers late last week on my 3 week old brand new JLUW and mine is pulling to the right pretty bad. I pulled all the wheels last night and checked the torque and its all good. After reading about everything that has to do with the steering TSB, I'm starting to think its pulling to the right because of the electronic set up. I hate it that its doing this now because I love the stance.
 

ptoemmes

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I installed the Synergy spacers late last week on my 3 week old brand new JLUW and mine is pulling to the right pretty bad. I pulled all the wheels last night and checked the torque and its all good. After reading about everything that has to do with the steering TSB, I'm starting to think its pulling to the right because of the electronic set up. I hate it that its doing this now because I love the stance.
If you haven't already, try a tire rotation and see if the pull persists.

Another step - PITA - would be to swap spacers on the right side from front to back.

Might get the alignment checked first though. Something out of alignment at normal stance might magnify when spacered out 1.5+" - less likley, but...
 

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Anyone run steel spacers? BORA offers them and I'm considering ordering. If you REALLY think about it doesn't make a ton of sense pressing a wheel stud into Al, no matter if you believe it's "aircraft" grade (which is meaningless marketing speak).

There's no way a stud in Al is not weaker than a stud in steel as the factory intended. I know steel would increase unsprung weight, but not sure it's enough to matter. I also know it MIGHT be more likely to affect balance but since it's so close to the center I doubt it would ever have a measurable effect on balance, plus if machined properly there should be no heavy/light spots
 

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You have a Willy's which is basically a Sport suspension(?) Try this.. let me know if it works.. I have some synergy spacers (1.75) in the garage and was planning to install them this week.

Updated Fuse Technique

Some have reported this fixed a few different steering issues such as the dead spot, loose steering, pulling, etc.

1. With the JL off, remove F34 power steering fuse.

2. Start the JL, notice no power steering by turning the steering wheel and dash message error appears. Do not drive it.

3. Turn off engine. Open driver door and close it so it completely turns off all dash lights. Let it sit for at least 5 minutes so all electronics fully discharge.

4. Reinsert F34 fuse, start engine, immediately turn steering wheel full left, full right, turn to center, turn engine off. Restart and take for a test drive.
 
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Rodeoflyer

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Anyone run steel spacers? BORA offers them and I'm considering ordering. If you REALLY think about it doesn't make a ton of sense pressing a wheel stud into Al, no matter if you believe it's "aircraft" grade (which is meaningless marketing speak).

There's no way a stud in Al is not weaker than a stud in steel as the factory intended. I know steel would increase unsprung weight, but not sure it's enough to matter. I also know it MIGHT be more likely to affect balance but since it's so close to the center I doubt it would ever have a measurable effect on balance, plus if machined properly there should be no heavy/light spots
Spidertrax and synergy are generally regarded as quality (aluminum) spacers (hub centric) I purchased some and they've been sitting uninstalled. I've tossed around wheel options and haven't installed them yet. I know many running hub centric al spacers from the manufacturers listed, a lot of offroading, and no issue. The main issue is maintenance. Checking torque every tire rotation or using red loctite.

Quote: Steel vs aluminum is the wrong question, the right question is the cheap studs the Chicom spacers use vrs OEM studs a well known maker of steel spacers use, Use a OEM or equivalent quality stud in actual T6061 aluminum and then aluminum is perfectly fine to use.

If the stud/al surface is prepped, cleaned and properly done (which I suspect synergy is doing) with quality studs... there should never be an issue.
 
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mvng4wd

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You have a Willy's which is basically a Sport suspension(?) Try this.. let me know if it works.. I have some synergy spacers (1.75) in the garage and was planning to install them this week.

Updated Fuse Technique

Some have reported this fixed a few different steering issues such as the dead spot, loose steering, pulling, etc.

1. With the JL off, remove F34 power steering fuse.

2. Start the JL, notice no power steering by turning the steering wheel and dash message error appears. Do not drive it.

3. Turn off engine. Open driver door and close it so it completely turns off all dash lights. Let it sit for at least 5 minutes so all electronics fully discharge.

4. Reinsert F34 fuse, start engine, immediately turn steering wheel full left, full right, turn to center, turn engine off. Restart and take for a test drive.
Thanks for the tip! I tried this trick two different times and it didn't seem to work for me :(
 

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Anyone run steel spacers? BORA offers them and I'm considering ordering. If you REALLY think about it doesn't make a ton of sense pressing a wheel stud into Al, no matter if you believe it's "aircraft" grade (which is meaningless marketing speak).

There's no way a stud in Al is not weaker than a stud in steel as the factory intended. I know steel would increase unsprung weight, but not sure it's enough to matter. I also know it MIGHT be more likely to affect balance but since it's so close to the center I doubt it would ever have a measurable effect on balance, plus if machined properly there should be no heavy/light spots
I have read a lot about spacers and weaknesses with them. I have never read of an actual problem happening because of this weakness.

Guys with muscle cars with double the weight and double the power run these and don't seem to twist them off the axles.

Thinking about the strength of steel vs aluminum seems like a moot point. The thinnest area of an aluminum spacer, be it the pressed stud or the hole the stock lugs goes to, is still thicker than the aluminum rim that it is being bolted to. This makes the rim the weak point. Not worried about twisting the rim into pieces.

I think you are right about balance not being an issue since it is close to center.

My thinking here could be off. I don't design driveline parts for a living. I could just have never noticed all the posts and threads with pictures showing jeeps sitting on three wheels and a rotor, crashed in the ditches and generally messed up from wheels flying off all over the place.

Or not.

Just thinking it through.
 

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I just ordered Bora 1” wheel spacers. According to the tech, the threads of my studs only protrude out 3/8” past the 1” spacer. My stock wheel pockets are approximately .750” deep.

We’ll see...
 

DadJokes

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How did these fit?
Pics?
They’re not going on until I get tires but you can see in the pic how much the stock studs will protrude when they are on as they said they use stock dimension studs in the spacers.

89510309-D867-494D-AF22-580A28A6F961.jpeg
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