What temperature is considered operating temperature?

[flyer92]

Unless you have the 3.6 and have to roll the dice everytime anyone changes that oil filter - "is today the day it will crack?". Doing oil changes 5 times more frequently than recommended just increase your chances of cracking that 5 times as well.

And this is why I never used my Jeep Wave oil changes and just do it myself. Also not a bad idea to use a torque wrench so you know exactly how tight the cap is. TBH, you don't even need to torque it all the way to 18 lb-ft. 15 lb-ft is just fine and ensures that you aren't close to stressing the weak plastic housing.

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[YBABRAT]

Unless you have the 3.6 and have to roll the dice everytime anyone changes that oil filter - "is today the day it will crack?". Doing oil changes 5 times more frequently than recommended just increase your chances of cracking that 5 times as well.

117k on odo and nearing my 8th oil change in 1-1/2 years since getting it used with 83k... cracks are a myth when installing a cap right IMO. What will crack your cap is simple 3rd party oil filters. Not all are the same size as OEM. Fram is on of the tallest and most difficult to turn your cap. Look up filter twist. It is scarry how many plug for FRAM. Mobil 1 or OEM are all I will use.

 

[YBABRAT]

As for normal operational temp... Turbo engines will spout water and steam near the windshield while v6 will spout steam out the driver's side of the radiator. Any temp is operational temperature until the captian yell's; There she blows!

 

[swampflyer]

Going to the dealer to get an oil change is like going to a proctologist to get a hernia operation.

 

[swampflyer]

Along the same lines one of the worst things you can do is race an engine when you start it up before it gets warm easiest way in the world to spin a bearing on the crank shaft you’ve got to let the oil warm up to get into the micro grooves

 

[svtrit]

My 3.6L operates at 195 degrees.

 

[roaniecowpony]

117k on odo and nearing my 8th oil change in 1-1/2 years since getting it used with 83k... cracks are a myth when installing a cap right IMO. What will crack your cap is simple 3rd party oil filters. Not all are the same size as OEM. Fram is on of the tallest and most difficult to turn your cap. Look up filter twist. It is scarry how many plug for FRAM. Mobil 1 or OEM are all I will use.

This doesn't pass the smell test. They're all "third party filters". OEM is Purolator/Wix/Mann standard grade.

I've used OEM, Wix, Purolator, Fram Ultra and I think the first filter I used was a K&N which was Champion Labs at the time. Currently, the maker of Mobil 1 filters is Mann Hummel who owns the Wix, Purolator, Filtron lines. So, it's all kind of a circle. One guy on BITOG stated that he personally saw Mopar filters being produced and boxed in the Purolator/Wix plant in the southern U.S.

I started using Fram Ultra filters recently, after having used Wix XP filters for quite a while. I'll pull it out and take a look. I think I'm on the second Fram. I didn't recall seeing the twist. But then, I've never seen it with any filters in my Jeep to the extent I've seen pictures posted of the extreme twist.

The oil cap has a spring in it to seat the filter to accommodate variations in length. So, this should keep the filter from binding.

 

[roaniecowpony]

I meant to post this from the factory service manual as well.

 

[Dabrakeman]

Being a 4xe driver I have my oil temperature on display all the time. Just over 200F is the max I see in the summer on long trips. Most of the time for 1/2 hour trips and such just gets to 190'ishF. Colder weather and shorter trips I am looking at 150F as being good enough to allow the engine to start shutting off. I prevent stop/start at lower oil temperatures since the lower the oil temperature the higher the probability of blow by gas contamination of the oil.

 

[YBABRAT]

This doesn't pass the smell test. They're all "third party filters". OEM is Purolator/Wix/Mann standard grade.

I've used OEM, Wix, Purolator, Fram Ultra and I think the first filter I used was a K&N which was Champion Labs at the time. Currently, the maker of Mobil 1 filters is Mann Hummel who owns the Wix, Purolator, Filtron lines. So, it's all kind of a circle. One guy on BITOG stated that he personally saw Mopar filters being produced and boxed in the Purolator/Wix plant in the southern U.S.

I started using Fram Ultra filters recently, after having used Wix XP filters for quite a while. I'll pull it out and take a look. I think I'm on the second Fram. I didn't recall seeing the twist. But then, I've never seen it with any filters in my Jeep to the extent I've seen pictures posted of the extreme twist.

The oil cap has a spring in it to seat the filter to accommodate variations in length. So, this should keep the filter from binding.

Well, I found the FRAM extra guard filter had twisted drastically when I thought it was a good idea to install on my 6th oil change, before heading to California. I never saw twist from OEM and Mobil 1, and thought I did something wrong until a member posted his link on filter twist and filter measurement comparisons. As for a too tall filter, it places undo stress to rhe cap when tightening. We had an earlier thread on cap pressure relief valve breaking with a member here. Things just don't break on their own. Cap internal stress is increased when fighting against the oil filter height, when installing the filter cap.

At one time STP and Mobil 1 with some other brands were all made by a single company. There may be minor differences but it may be due to cost for lower teir brands

 

[OutdoorSpace]

Being a 4xe driver I have my oil temperature on display all the time. Just over 200F is the max I see in the summer on long trips. Most of the time for 1/2 hour trips and such just gets to 190'ishF. Colder weather and shorter trips I am looking at 150F as being good enough to allow the engine to start shutting off. I prevent stop/start at lower oil temperatures since the lower the oil temperature the higher the probability of blow by gas contamination of the oil.

I also have oil temp up all the time. But I thought you had to get to at least 200F with the 2.0T to ensure no oil dilution before turning off the engine? Would like to hear from those who know more about this then I do (read: most everyone!)

 

[Luke30028]

2025 v6. Yes 200-220 is usually what I see on both oil and coolant once fully warmed up.

 

[Captain Morgan]

3000 Kelvins on a regular SW Florida summer day.

 

[MauiSteve]

Kelvins, don't see that very often.

 

[Blacksport]

2025 v6. Yes 200-220 is usually what I see on both oil and coolant once fully warmed up.

Yeah, my '25 3.6 was usually around that temp. Didn't like it...manufacturers keep the temp high for emissions. Swapped the 197° thermo for a 185°. Stays under 190, occasional sneak up to 200 when stopped or heavy traffic. Oil temp not affected, stays the same as before. I'm in FL, not worried about freezing temps, although if I was up north, I'd still change the thermo, just warm it up gently.

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