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Transfercase oil change

JINO

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I did a transfercase oil change today, and found out the Tcase skid is a HUGE pain to remove. Have to remove the fuel tank skid, fuel filter skid among other parts. I looked at all of it and said nope. Changed the oil anyways, but just much more messy.

Anyways, I bought my ecodiesel at about 45k, and looks to have never had the Tcase oil changed, judging by the paint marks on the 2 bolts (fill/drain). The oil was still reddish, and nearly no metal shavings on the 2 bolts. I'm at 91k now.
The video I watched, his JL was at 30k and the oil was thick and brown.

Anyone have this experience as well?
Will be doing the diffs next week, oil delivery was delayed.

Jeep Wrangler JL Transfercase oil change received_590049486827348


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Jeep Wrangler JL Transfercase oil change 20250327_141937
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JPAloha

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I’ve changed the fluids in both my 2018 & 2019. The 2019 t-case fluid was still a fairly bright red, the 2018 was a bit darker but had 20,000km more on it at the time it was done.
The diff fluids in my 2019 were gross, the 2018 was better but I noticed, while changing ball joints last weekend, that it now looks the same as what came out of the 2019. The commonality is that they’ve both done water crossings with standard breathers on them.
The 2019, got the breather e tensions put on a few years ago but I didn’t think to check the fluid at the time. When I have time, I’ll check the fluid in that to see if it looks better than last time (if so, I’ll purchase the breather extension kit again and place on the 2018), I may quickly change the diff fluids in the 2018 this weekend or next since it’s a quick job.
 

ym0bc1

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my 2.0T was super easy to remove the T-case skid. Probably 4 bolts. The drain was pretty clean, no splash, definitely no mess like your photo.

Took a closer look of your last photo. The skid plate of the transfer case seems weird. Bolt holes don't have bolt. Did previous owner welded the skid plate bars to the cross member?
 

Rhinebeck01

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my 2.0T was super easy to remove the T-case skid. Probably 4 bolts. The drain was pretty clean, no splash, definitely no mess like your photo.

Took a closer look of your last photo. The skid plate of the transfer case seems weird. Bolt holes don't have bolt. Did previous owner welded the skid plate bars to the cross member?
Actually, it is not at all mandatory to remove the skid plate..

Guys/gals do remove the skid plate, but it is far easier and also there is no chance of breaking off bolts, etc., to just fashion something like this to facilitate draining.. Service time is less also, if you do not remove the skid. No mess also..

You place this between the drain hole and the skid plate.... you pull the plug and the fluid runs along it, and then into the drain pan. No big mess on the skid plate and no pulling the skid plate.

Yes, you can still easily access and deal with both the drain and fill plugs.

This is an aluminum foil pan you get at the dollar store, etc.. You just cut the shape and fold up the edges. It's about say 16" long and about 4-5 inches wide. Easily cleaned when you get done so you have for next time...

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JEEP4U

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Jino.....Skid plate is welded.....should be bolt-on....You need to purchase yourself a moldable/flexible oil drain funnel.....found on Amazon.
 

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I changed both MT and XFER at 34Kmi (had just dropped belly pan to get clutch recall work done).

Xfer old fluid very clean, reddish like new ATF-4
Trans old fluid clean but somewhat darker, brownish-red; only some very fine metal particles on magnet drain plug, no chunks of any size.
 

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Definitely don't need to remove the skid/crossmember for drain or fill on the t-case.

Open both plugs and let 'er rip. Wipe up when finished. Or, for you tidy guys you can use a long funnel/hose or piece of material to direct the stream into a drain pan.
 

Pape

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I'm use to redish t-case oil color. Usually change around 50k KM life mark. Did not do the JL yet.

For me, at comparable change time, the only thing chewing the oil is the rear axle.
 

Rogersocal

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I used 2 funnels( one through the skid and one from the skid to the drain pan and didn't remove the drain plug all the way, Kinda held it in place to modulate fluid flow. No mess, didnt remove anything but the plugs.

filled with Royal Purple Synchromax
 
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JINO

JINO

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my 2.0T was super easy to remove the T-case skid. Probably 4 bolts. The drain was pretty clean, no splash, definitely no mess like your photo.

Took a closer look of your last photo. The skid plate of the transfer case seems weird. Bolt holes don't have bolt. Did previous owner welded the skid plate bars to the cross member?
No it all was factory.
For sure the fuel filter skid was bolted on to it as well.
 

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JINO

JINO

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Not sure if changed on later model. My 2021 t-case skid bar has bolt on to cross member.

IMG_6889.jpeg
Yes, but there are so many other things bolted to it. Fuel tank skid, fuel filter skid, i believe muffler skid as well.
 

ym0bc1

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Carguy34

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Yes, but there are so many other things bolted to it. Fuel tank skid, fuel filter skid, i believe muffler skid as well.
You’re correct Jino. The ecodiesel’s are different and significantly more involved. That said, I did mine last weekend and it took an extra 10 minutes to remove it, so 15 minutes total. The fuel skid doesn’t need to be removed, just loosen the front bolts and it’ll slide out in the passenger direction once the fuel filter covers are removed. My fluid looked great coming out. I’m at 65k miles on a 2020. Also, I live in Colorado, so little/no corrosion to deal with.
 
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JINO

JINO

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